Mopar1973Man

Check this out gang! http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80602

Ok you could do a big line kit and a Holley 150... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1312-Holley-HP150-Installation-PICS?highlight=holley

I assume the front crank seal? Eeeewwwww! Hmmm... The only thing I can think off is to use a mild solvent like Xylene/Mineral Spirits to remove the oil. Test in a small area first. Then wash the truck well and then wax the areas that get oily good. This should help in removal of the oil and grime later.

Nope... I wish though...

If it was me I would just get a seal kit and rebuild it yourself... There is 2 seals in that spot a outter dust seal and a inner hydraulic seal. As for pulling the box out is rather easy. But first thing center the steering and tie the steering wheel in place. (This will protect the clock spring from damage). The pull the steer shaft loose from the box. (Input and output). disconnect the power steering fluid lines, then unbolt the gear box and remove... The sad part is that this most likely wouldn't of happen if you where changing you power steering fluid every 30K miles...

Here is what is all about... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Yes... The increased line size does improve fuel volume and keep pressure higher... But also the stock fuel system isn't strong enough... The stock lift pump is like 25-30 GPH...(UGH!) I suggest a minimum of a 95-100 GPH pump.

Geez... I'm really on a learning curve with doing front end work! I'd just got done doing the upper ball joints, tie-rods ends and center link on Taz's 92 Dodge Cummins. Its a 2WD truck and man I can't hit the right toe angle because I think the lower ball joint are sloopy. When I do get the toe angle set for parallel (near ZERO) the tires rub the front end rods. So I added toe to the front end and it driveable but its not right yet... So Taz and myself are thinking its got to be the lower ball joints allowing the bottom of the tire to slip inward (top of the tire leans outwards).

Then I'm going to assume the spring assembly fits in the square depression in the corner of the 1st pic. Then the white button is the switch right? The assembly reminds me of a ball point pen you click up and down. Find a ball point pen that is see through like Pilot G2 and youll see what I mean... I know this isn't answering you problem but it might give a clue to the assembly process...

Comments in blue...

I like that I dea... At least your purging the rest of the system out and clearing the rest of the system of old fluid and getting a fresh start. (Good idea!)

Sad but true... A $40 fuel pressure gauge could of saved you from this mess...

I love that sound... I get out and hear my turbo winding down...

Smarty is one of the harshest on a trans because of the fact it remove part of the TQ management and allow the the engine to beat the hell out of the trans.

Idaho saying... "Never say 'Whoa!' it a tight spot!" he followed the rule exactly... But I would off used the other saying though... "Turn around don't drown!"

I would beef up the trans first before you buy it... Now after you beefed up the trans I would run the Edge Juice or edge Comp on 5x5. I'm pulling normally 20-21 AVG MPG topping out at 25.3 MPG... More you turn it up the more timing and fuel you'll get but the auto trans is the weak link in the pile. Like Today I got back from a long loop to Boise, ID and back pulling 21 MPG for the trip... Not bad in my book...

Could be the belts slipping a bit some call it a "Power Chirp" it's a Cummins thing...

P1689 and P0500... (betting...) P1689 is a communication error and the P0500 is ABS code (tire spin)... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm (Basically a death code for the VP44) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm (Bottom of the page) As for the P1689 its cause from poor fuel pressure. When fuel pressure falls below 14 PSI the overflow vavle closes so the only flow of fuel is through the pump. So if you coasting for long periods of time with pressure below 14 PSI it will overheat the electronics and wear the parts internally because there still spinning creating heat and the fuel isn't moving. So hence the electronics start to take on heat damage. What I was getting at is there is only to outlets for fuel to leave the pump either by injection or the overflow valve. so if you coasting for long distances the injectors are NOT firing. (Outlet #1 closed) and if you fuel pressure is below 14 PSI the overflow vavle is closed (outlet #2 closed) so ho can a VP44 stay cooled and lubed? All I can say is to add 2 cycle oil to the fuel and keep your fuel pressure above 14 PSI. Most of us have moved up to a Raptor, AirDog or FASS fuel system that moves better than 100 GPH worth of fuel at 15-20 PSI normally. This insures the VP44 stays cooled and lubed properly.

I know a of a few people running 12V mechanical fuel pumps up to 40 PSI on a VP44... What rupture the diaphram is LOW pressure. Bosch or rebuilt shop will not warranty a pump that has a torn diaphram because that is proof of low to ZERO pressure. I'm like DodgePwr I prefer to see pressures above 14 PSI all the time... That way I know there is contant flow past the VP44 electronics and it stay cool. Not to mention running 15-17 PSI now for over 2.5 years has hurt a thing. But the life span of the VP44 is sure long... (116K miles and stilll going strong!)

I'm starting to suggest the new minimum pressure be 14 PSI... Then max will be still the same at 20 PSI...

Well... I got to admit its not to hard to rebuilt a 1st Gen 2WD front end... I got to adimt its costly but not hard to do. But I got a suggestion to toss out for other 1st Gen owners that have to do ball joints. Heat the A arms (not the ball joint) up with a propane torch a bit. Then take a air hammer and a chisel bit and beat the ball joints out in a counter clockwise direction. Work excellent for me... When you get them out make sure to use a bit of mineral spirits to wipe out the hole this will make it easy for the new joints to screw in using a large pair of channel locks. This happen to be Taz's truck... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1367-Need-front-end-parts-for-a-1992-Dodge-Cummins-1-Ton-2WD

Boy there is a lot of Cummins floating around with lot of miles! WARNING: Foul language is used... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=x64Ay8EnOhU

Check this out gang... This is a excellent YouTube Video that explains the basics of the CR injector and operation of the fuel system...

Not bad... I've heard a of a few stories like this...

As for the Trans it won't hold the Edge Juice at all... You would have to at least put a TQ Converter and a Valve Body in...