Mopar1973Man

Well gang... I'm going to brekout of the house while the weather is good and head out with my new Home Made trailer and ATV and go play around for 1 day before the nasty weather sits down on Idaho and starts to rain. Here is my homebrew 8x8 with utility box. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=779 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=778 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=777 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=780 All hitched up and ready to roll in the morning... So I'm taking a day off from the XHTML pages and the forum to go play for one day...

Oh yeah I've seen him around nice guy too! (www.midwestdieselconnection.com) Here is profile page... CSnyder

Looks like you could use a nice leveling kit though!

As for the AirDog series pumps I've noticed the ball and spring have some issues. Like I found that over time of the fuel pressure pushing against the ball that the ball is literally pushed into the middle of the coil. About once a year I'll lay in the shop pull the fitting out and find the ball literally jamed into the coil of the spring. Once I pull the ball out and re-assemble the fitting and hoses the pump is back to 17-18 PSI like it was new but by the end of the year it will be dipping below 15 PSI. Solution... Make a collar for the top of the spring so the ball can't wedge it way down through the coils of the spring over time.

Ahh this one... http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2001/09-004-01.htm

Strange... I got a set of those too for the winter time Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Load range E... Lets say they do alright out here for mountain climbing in the snow.

Now it opens for me...

I like the tire and rim setup thats way different look compared to stock alloy...

The way these engines are build there is very little use for any gasket sealer. Most of it is a O-ring and rubber gasket like the valve cover. As for plugging with a chunk of silcone or something. You would plug the inlet of the oil plug screen before you plug a cooling jet. There is a oil filter in between all this.

Fuel sender can be had at you local dealer for about $70 USD. Yes it will require the tank to be dropped and the new sender installed. It's a common problem with these sender wearing out. Mine failed about 130K miles. As for installing it its not to hard at all.

Wow! I was in total shock to here a heavy British accent on the phone this morning. A nice gentlemen over in England has a 2000 Dodge Cummins that died for no reason. He pulled the codes and found P1693 and P1689. So he had a Bosch dealer hook directly to the VP44 and found the VP44 was operational. so I guided him over to thE ECm page for the wiring diagram of the ECM to VP44 to hopefully help him out. Phone call didn't last long but the whole thing is over in England there is very few Dodge Cummins trucks and very little information or service centers for them so he found the site to hopefully get an answer to his problem.

Don't ever admit you got the switch and don't let any know you got it... Telling people upsets most these days and the big boys look down on you because you got to fool the truck to smoke. (Helpful advise)

Still watchin... Still waitin'

Sounds possible... It would have to be a rim top full tank of fuel for that to happen. Other than that the tank vent hose would vent the gasses through the vents. Full tank would start pushing fuel up the neck till it gets enough room to blow past the fuel to escape.

Now also you got to remember everything down stream has to be built up to to hold this kind of power... (Trans, driveline, etc)

Drafting... That's cheating... That like saying I pulled 29.9 MPG just because I had a tail wind the whole way...(gotta give you a load of C__p!)

Ok... The factory minimum is 10 PSI... But now keep this in your head about the 14 PSI. The VP44 has 1 fuel inlet for the lift pump. But has 2 outlets. 1. Overflow valve that opens at 14 PSI. 2. Injectors when there firing. So if your driving along at 12 PSI its fine because there is still 2-3 GPH flowing past the electronics keeping them cool and through the VP44 pump moving parts keeping them lubed up. But now lets change that up a bit. (Common occurance for me.) I'm out firewood hauling climb to a elevation of 7,500 ft and 35 miles of single lane dirt road. Now i'm loaded up for for the sake of the post I assume my pressure is 12 PSI (really not). Now I'm going to be jaking the whole time running down hill I will take me over 2 hour to get to the bottom of the traveling about 15-20 MPH and not using the throttle much at all. So now the overflow is CLOSED (less than 14 PSI) and the injectors are NOT firing because I'm coasting. So that mean the injection pump is not being lubed nor is it being cooled. There is little to ZERO flow. There is a tiny bleed hole in the overflow valve but its not going to help... Now for the thmubnails I used x8 magnifing glass to show how really small that hole is... So with my idle pressure at 17.5 PSI and WOT at 15 PSI I know the overflow valve is ALWAYS open and flowing cooled fuel through the pump.

Ok... I've keep record of every bit of fuel since 20K and so far I've got 164K on the clock. So far my lowest on record is 14.1 MPG (hauling heavy loads of firewood trailer included) and all the way up to a high mark of 25.3 MPG. But during daily driving I normally see about 20-21 MPG. But if I got to travel up in the hills for work or friends place that number will be pulled down quickly to about 18-19 MPG Last summer... Go Big or go home... I went home BIG! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=422 Empty run of course... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiQFadYL6co Now watch the MPG (Instant MPG for the second) then watch Cmg (Current MPG for the Day) And yes the ScanGauge is usually close to the number displayed...

Yeap... kind of like the old days of sealed beam glass bulbs...

Ok... As for looking at this you problem is the ECM all a long even now. The low volt codes are typical for a failed ECM. I to a look at all the codes and seeing everyone of them low volt. The P1488 is a dead give away to the fact the ECM supplies the 5 volt signal to all the sensors (APPS, ECT, IAT, MAP, Crank, Cam, etc) So if the ECM is report low voltage then I know the ECM is to blame so far... Then in the Second batch of code you have the P0606 which is a Failed ECM code. You might have to checked again... Also check all engine grounds... The main ECM ground is behind the starter you must remove the starter to even see it. Then there is several grounds under the hood like one near the driver side battery mounted by the headlight. This one sometimes turn all green and nasty from battery acid.

From what I understand he's doing excellent and is selling his product to other vendors like Diesel Auto Power...

No joke... I try to keep my smoke controlled as much as possible but if I going to play I normally hose down Taz on a back road or up in the forest somewhere... But being real... The fact is if you seeing that much smoke you got to remember you not getting all burned so MPG are normally lower. Back to the phase "To play you gotta pay... :spend:"

Nice... To hit the 23 MPG mark is doing good...

I got a fix for that too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/general/funnel/funnel.htm No mess funnel that will take large amounts of oil without overfilling the funnel!

I'm running a Big O A/T tire (235/85 R16) so far so good... They are very simular to the Mitchellin LTX tires... Then remember 80% of all roads out here are dirt.