Mopar1973Man

That why i seen some really weird number on dyno's for older 12V trucks. I've seen were guys have been looking for big boost numbers just to say they got it. But in the long haul their Dyno numbers were poor. But yea with a 24V the sensor do a good part of the job but not all. Still best to get the right turbo for the amount of fuel your spraying. Like myself I know I'm at the end of my rope. RV275 injectors and Edge Comp I would have to upgrade turbo if i went up more. But I would also be looking into a Dual Disc Clutch. Then might be time to look towards ARP studs and fire-ring the head too... The slippy slope of BOMBing your Cummins... Ahhhhh!

Like Mopar Mom said just get me some artwork or even some text I'll create a banner ad for the site and advertise your cottage industry or business... I'm avoiding using Google Ad's and such because i would rather advertise the donating members (Premium and vendors) than a bunch of random ads from Google. So for you vendors on the site build up your group areas with so specials or products to display. As for the premium members get your artwork to me. Like JL welding got his banner here... So you also can build up a group area as well and post up some of your products you produce or sell.

Hmmm... I was going to ask if Cummins was handling it... But they are... Geez...

Strange setup... The upper ball joints have a thread on them and twist out. But is a very strange rounded thread. But now the lower ball joints are smooth shank and are pressed in. Now the funny part is the 1st set of ball joint I got were mis packaged and are too small. So we found one more ball joint with the same number but the right ones... But now waiting for 1 to show up Tuesday from Spokane, WA. I'm going to grab the camera and post some pics later today of the new parts... I know Taz would chime in but he's got limited access to internet currently...

True... But what I was pointing out its possible to degrade the performance with too much boost... In Taz's case he needs more clutch to hold it down now...

I might have to put a mystery switch on Mom's 1996 Truck...

Might check this thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1378-Code-P0753-troubleshooting

Similar to this one... (Number 2) Or... (Number 1)

I think that is the problem with most guys that start moding there truck... The fact that when we start adding fuel we always add more boost but get carried away with the boost numbers. Like I found out on Taz's 92 he's got a HX35 mounted in place of the H1C that came stock. He's got a VE pump with 366 gov spring and the poump turned up and re-index the arm. But he burying the boost gauge at 30+ PSI and never getting pyro above 600-700*F... well as we back down the boost pressure to about 20-25 PSI the pyrometer started to come up and power increased too. It's very possible to to flood the engine with too much air basically blowing out the flame.

Hmmm... Sorry for the delay... (Busy site building) But you need separate send for each gauge... Can't piggy back them. The sender for ISSPro with not work with the Edge properly and visa-versa...

Now just pressure the system to about 20 PSI and see if the wastegate moves too...

Your going to have to figure out the source of the leak and deal with that... But I'm starting to wonder if the pump is damaged too? (Burning the fluid) All the other device in the system don't create heat... Only the pump does so the idea of the fluid scorching is rather strange unless there is a bearing problem? (Maybe)

Yeah 4WD front ends are fun to beat on get ball joints in or out... I'm doing a 2WD right now... I waiting on the new joints to show tuesday... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1453-Rebuild-a-1st-Gen-front-end

Because the the last 1-2 gallons is trapped in the bottom of the block and usually the air trapped in the system takes time to burp out... So like I said you'll get close with 5 gallons... Next time I flush mine out I'll get pics of the way I park my truck for draining...

Wow! Timbo has become a member on the forum... Lets give Timbo a warm welcome... Now you guys with Timbo APPS can get tech support from the man himself... Link to his profile. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/member.php/10225-Timbo

Battle continues... Having quite the time getting the right lower ball joints...

Funny... I use to head into NAPA and just get a rebuild kit for the steering box and normally came with every seal and O-ring. But... W&F and has point there if the part are wore out and loose then a rebuild kit won't fix that but it would repair a leaky seal but if the bearings / sleeves are shot it will soon wear the seals out again...

Actually I would still chase it for the sake of timingto help improve the MPG bracket... No one said you going to race the quarter mile... Or a circle track...

Ok so the T post idea doesn't work...

Glad to see your getting it fixed up... Sound like you have part issues as well like myslef... I've got a job with ball joints that is getting annoying quickly...

I get drone all while pulling my wood trailer and a full load on the bed... But I'm straight piped 3"... As ofr empty travel its quiet for the most part... But I found the drone seems to increase more so as you increase the pipe diameter. As W&F had mention the muffler move forward helps a bunch. But another one I heard about is changing the censity of the pipe by straping a fence T post to the pipe... I've not tested this idea but I hear if you change the density of the pipe (T post) the drone resinance will change too...

Assuming a stock lift pump? Then no you must replace the lift pump... This is a known issue with stock carters...

Well knowning that I would consider pulling it out and replacing it then... Why? Because if your running a stock pump the only pre-filter is that sock screen now. so if there is a way for the dirt to pass it it will... The worst part is if there is any metal debris in the tank then the metal has a chance of by-passing the screen and going right into the lift pump and sticking to the magnets of the lift pump motor. This in turn will take the chance of locking the lift pump or wearing the motor brushes out. Remember since the stock lift pump bypasses fuel there the motor chamber that means the debris is cirulated around and around the motor of the lift pump... Boy I'm glad i got a AD150... Filter before the pump and a filter after the pump... And then the pump motor is not bathed in diesel fuel like stock Carters...

Ahhh... You got caught... Yes the coolant capacity is 6 gallons. But the problem is that you have a tough time getting the last gallon out unless you put the truck on a steep nose down slope. Then you can drain it out. As for filling it up you got to turn the truck around to aid in air removal so have the truck in a steep up hill slope. I typically see about 5-5.5 gallons doing it this way. As for the heater there is no vacuum control valve like older versions. The heater core is directly plumbed to the block. Some also pull a heater hose at the block to aid in air removal.

Not a problem... Do me a favor though and give Debbie a call back and tell her you would like to see her become a vendor on the site... I'll add her in as soon as I see her! All I got to say about ball joints... They are not fun to do... I got Taz's 92 Dodge D350 in my shop right now and the front end tore apart... Now I'm hoping I can find a new set of ball joints... (Long story)