Mopar1973Man

Here is a Cummins dealer near you... http://yellowpages.superpages.com/listings.jsp?CS=L&MCBP=true&search=Find+It&SRC=&STYPE=S&SCS=&channelId=&sessionId=&C=Cummins&L=Oconomowoc+WI&x=0&y=0

Not really from what i understand... Don't get me wrong they will filter the debris out but do a poor job for water separation... My that why FASS and AirDog only work with Fleetguard filters too (Stratapore)

Another good compare to give... Yesterday I was going to class in Cambridge Idaho about 90 miles from me. Ok. I started out with a cold truck and headed out the current temp here was 40*F but by the time I climbed to New Meadows, ID it was 22*F and the IAT was showing almost 60*F (floating 58-59). But would you believe it my MPG on the SGII was down to 13 MPG in 20 miles of travel... By the time I got to my class 90 miles away I barely got 16 MPG. This with conservative driving too (55-60 MPH). Now The class is over the temp outside climbed to 65*F and was nice out with a mild temps in Cambridge ID. Now on the way home I kicked it up to speed limit (65 MPH) after completely warming up the engine. But now my IAT was 105*F and the outside temp was holding 63-66*F most of the trip... By the time I got home I pulled 20.5 MPG. Air temp in the manifold is important...

Did you install the washer under the pivot ball stud (if it came with it)? You hydraulics might be wore out giving you problems getting the clutch depressed completely...

Typical fleetguard fuel filters are about $12 bucks at a Cummins dealer or shop. Like where i'm at in Idaho there is lots of little Mom & Pop fuel stations that sell diesel fuel but it might sit there for months if not years (Ekkk) Then some store the fuel above ground tank with no weather cover from snow. After seeing my WIF light once... I relized I got to stick to the big name brand fuels in the area and ask who sell the most volume. Yes I actually asked the store owners how much volume they sold... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=931 Take notice on the box it says Stratapore this is Fleetguard only function. Generic filters like Wix and Napa are just paper filter that don't separate water... But the Fleetguard filters do... (at least what the Cummins dealer was explaining to me).

Here is a manifold for a 3rd Gen I think will do more good... Comes from... http://www.hellmannperformance.com/welcome.html Just found this gem...BLING!

Sorry... Long day and did go back to read the initial post... So what is you pressure now?

Fuel pressure normally tells the full story for you... Like mine is 17.5 @ idle and no lower than 15 @ WOT. Now with my old Carter pump typically I saw 14 @ idle and 12 @ WOT. Once if fell to 11 at WOT it was time to change... Being the factory lower limit is 10 PSI... Stock carter lasted about 9 months to 1 year if you lucky... So get a fuel pressure gauge, change your filter, and check for air leaks...

This is mine... http://www.wefilterit.com/ I change mine every 5K miles with another roll of TP (Kirkland brand or Scott's brand) Then change oil evry 10K miles...

Simular case... I'm not exactly right up against the tank either but hidden behind the transfer case so the skid plate protect the filters and the pump is shielded from flying debris... If I crack the fuel line at the pump inlet I get fuel flow siphoning effect is really good...

I'm going to use that write for sure... Sounds simple enough... Thanks!

The IAT temp must drop below 32*F to start high idle and drop below 15*F to start 3 cylinder high idle... Then the high idle is cancelled by engine temp reaching 175*F, brake pedal, transmission in gear (auto), movement, etc... Here is a quick video if it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7iJCKfmaE

You got to pull the trigger for yourself... But now you get to buy another...

Any wire should work... Just needs to be like 22 AWG bell wire really...

You should be seeing fuel from all the line opened... This sound like a broken rotor shaft being its pumping more on 1 cylinder than the other... But I know you physically didn't break it... Did you double check all your connections and solder joints that they are good??? Are you seeing any error codes??? You might be looking at a new VP44... Sorry...

It has been brought to our attention for some unknown reason RCTrucking has been deleted from our account records here on the forum. I have no idea how this occured. RCTrucking is one of the first big donors the to the site during the PHPbb to Vbulletin update. We are trying to make this right with RCTrucking currently andwhile we are doing it has anyone else had account issues? Please report all problems to me... I'll make it right.. Towards the bottom of the list early on... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/donations/donation.htm

No kidding... Even with trialer brakes that's just a wee bit scary for weight... I remember hauling a Backhoe to my place from New Meadows (20 miles) and I did have a trailer brake... talk about plenty of power to drag but even with the E Brake and service brake you need more room to stop... So in the long haul you should stick to the GVWR that is in the owners manual... The truck will thank you...

There is actually a cleaning procedure in the Dodge FSM now that you reminded me of that W&F... I always wnodered why the write up but then I always explained it away from a blown turbo...

No comment... (Shaking my head) Inside joke and you would have to go back through many pages of JL welding posts to understand...

That was my first step in trying to fix my problems...($125 for the big line kit) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181 But after replacing 3 lift pumps at $200 in under 1.5 years... (Totaling up $600 = $725 total package) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182 Then 4th pump failed... I threw up my hands and got... (AirDog 150 - $520 - 3 years ago!) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180 So now... looking back it would of been much cheaper to just jump once and do it right with a known good pump that has a good reputation also a lifetime warranty!

Shoot to do a injection pump is a cake walk once you done it once... The biggest thing is to have the gear puller and it worth the $50 bucks to buy one... Beyond that it just a matter of twisting wrench and sockets... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=615

Actually it does explain it good... Makes a lot of sense about the gears beating against each other causing a tapping or knocking noise.

Well I'm going to rebuild and lube everything up in inside the HVAC box while its out. So hopefully I can have better than +10 years worth of service from my A/C without sweating it (Pun intended! )

Ae you using any kind of oil or oil treatment on the outerwears? If so quit... The thing is if there is any kind of oil on the filter it won't shed the dust... That is how mine stays clean. As I go over the washboard road the vibration shakes the dust right off it... I'll have to get a pic of the dust piles in the heat shield in the summer time... Check this out... http://www.filterminder.com/ http://www.filterminder.com/mythvsfact.asp I made it to 116K miles and still going...

Ok gang... How many miles do you have on your diesel vehicles? All makes and model accepted in the vote... Please post the year, make and model, and all other good information... 2002 Dodge 2500 - Cummins 24V - 4WD - 166K miles. Bomb list is rather long...