Mopar1973Man

Don't ever admit you got the switch and don't let any know you got it... Telling people upsets most these days and the big boys look down on you because you got to fool the truck to smoke. (Helpful advise)

Still watchin... Still waitin'

Sounds possible... It would have to be a rim top full tank of fuel for that to happen. Other than that the tank vent hose would vent the gasses through the vents. Full tank would start pushing fuel up the neck till it gets enough room to blow past the fuel to escape.

Now also you got to remember everything down stream has to be built up to to hold this kind of power... (Trans, driveline, etc)

Drafting... That's cheating... That like saying I pulled 29.9 MPG just because I had a tail wind the whole way...(gotta give you a load of C__p!)

Ok... The factory minimum is 10 PSI... But now keep this in your head about the 14 PSI. The VP44 has 1 fuel inlet for the lift pump. But has 2 outlets. 1. Overflow valve that opens at 14 PSI. 2. Injectors when there firing. So if your driving along at 12 PSI its fine because there is still 2-3 GPH flowing past the electronics keeping them cool and through the VP44 pump moving parts keeping them lubed up. But now lets change that up a bit. (Common occurance for me.) I'm out firewood hauling climb to a elevation of 7,500 ft and 35 miles of single lane dirt road. Now i'm loaded up for for the sake of the post I assume my pressure is 12 PSI (really not). Now I'm going to be jaking the whole time running down hill I will take me over 2 hour to get to the bottom of the traveling about 15-20 MPH and not using the throttle much at all. So now the overflow is CLOSED (less than 14 PSI) and the injectors are NOT firing because I'm coasting. So that mean the injection pump is not being lubed nor is it being cooled. There is little to ZERO flow. There is a tiny bleed hole in the overflow valve but its not going to help... Now for the thmubnails I used x8 magnifing glass to show how really small that hole is... So with my idle pressure at 17.5 PSI and WOT at 15 PSI I know the overflow valve is ALWAYS open and flowing cooled fuel through the pump.

Ok... I've keep record of every bit of fuel since 20K and so far I've got 164K on the clock. So far my lowest on record is 14.1 MPG (hauling heavy loads of firewood trailer included) and all the way up to a high mark of 25.3 MPG. But during daily driving I normally see about 20-21 MPG. But if I got to travel up in the hills for work or friends place that number will be pulled down quickly to about 18-19 MPG Last summer... Go Big or go home... I went home BIG! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=422 Empty run of course... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiQFadYL6co Now watch the MPG (Instant MPG for the second) then watch Cmg (Current MPG for the Day) And yes the ScanGauge is usually close to the number displayed...

Yeap... kind of like the old days of sealed beam glass bulbs...

Ok... As for looking at this you problem is the ECM all a long even now. The low volt codes are typical for a failed ECM. I to a look at all the codes and seeing everyone of them low volt. The P1488 is a dead give away to the fact the ECM supplies the 5 volt signal to all the sensors (APPS, ECT, IAT, MAP, Crank, Cam, etc) So if the ECM is report low voltage then I know the ECM is to blame so far... Then in the Second batch of code you have the P0606 which is a Failed ECM code. You might have to checked again... Also check all engine grounds... The main ECM ground is behind the starter you must remove the starter to even see it. Then there is several grounds under the hood like one near the driver side battery mounted by the headlight. This one sometimes turn all green and nasty from battery acid.

From what I understand he's doing excellent and is selling his product to other vendors like Diesel Auto Power...

No joke... I try to keep my smoke controlled as much as possible but if I going to play I normally hose down Taz on a back road or up in the forest somewhere... But being real... The fact is if you seeing that much smoke you got to remember you not getting all burned so MPG are normally lower. Back to the phase "To play you gotta pay... :spend:"

Nice... To hit the 23 MPG mark is doing good...

I got a fix for that too... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/general/funnel/funnel.htm No mess funnel that will take large amounts of oil without overfilling the funnel!

I'm running a Big O A/T tire (235/85 R16) so far so good... They are very simular to the Mitchellin LTX tires... Then remember 80% of all roads out here are dirt.

So you got our storm coimng now... Well on the other side of it should be good weather for awhile. Kind of sucks to get stuck in the house for rain shower and can't do anything then the weather clears up and now Mopar Mom and myself get sick with a Spring Head Cold. I'm getting cabin fever so bad I ready to bust out of this place hop on a ATV and head for the hills for a couple days. At least for me I have my periods of feeling strong in the morning and get the chores done and get a little personal work done too. I managed to complete my ATV trailer / Wood hauler. I going to have to get my camera out today and get a pic of that. Then I managed to install a Timbo APPS so I could do a write up of the Timbo APPS (Still need to do the write up). Then for some weird reason this spring I took interest in my old 1977 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome (360 CID 2 BBL 727 Trans) sitting in the shed. The interior needs some good house cleaning but the old beast still in good shape just need fluids topped off and the batteries replaced. Oh yeah Taz's called me that he's getting itchy to find a exhaust brake and get ready for wood hauling. Like the daytime highs are around 50-55*F and would be sweet for working in the woods.

Well glad you got it put together and my inofrmation helpd out for ya... As for the suggestion by Guesswho he's right you want to try and keep everything clean as possible.

Painted black? High quality VP44's are normally UNPAINTED aluminum. Black painted pumps are from Czechoslovakia and are usually of low grade and life span. Hmmm... As for the poly mount most all trucks came with moly vibration block to tie the high pressure lines to together. Here is what mine look like factory injection lines. (Donig a RV275 injector install) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=711 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=710

If any of the follow have occured then reset the APPS. 1. APPS has been changed or disconnected.2. ECM has been changed or disconnected.3. Batteries has been changed or disconnected.

The only reason I got the link going is because I watch my DSL stats closely and notice the error gotten bad and the max speed of 3.0 MBits was increased to 7.5 Mbits and I can't seen to reach it at all. (Just reminded me to call the phone company ) But I'll have to try out you test too.

Not me... As for bearing those should be standard tapper roller bearing with a tappered race. You should be able to drive the races out with a piece of soft metal rod. Should be simular to this... (2 1/2 Ton millitary fire truck with drum brakes - this was the only bearing pic I could find fast) :banghead: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=709 Should be able to do this with basic tools. When I did this with the fire dept I was using a old chunk of re-bar...

Well Gang... Timbo gave me a Timbo APPS sensor to install on my truck and try out. So I'll tell this much its built much better than the factory $400 dollar APPS is! I will say it exhaust brake and high idle ready. This APPS sensor has no effect on these options and will continue to work as usual. What I love about the Timbo APPS sensor is the fact there is no longer a need to hit a particular voltage for the APPS to function correctly or probing the PCM or ECM sockets.. And for you Timbo you need some serious Props for coming up with a simple fix for our trucks! My hats off to you sir! But Here is my quick version write up of how to install a Timbo APPS sensor. 1. First you must remove the plastic cover over the bell-crank assembly. There is 2 plastic screws inside a expanding plug. You must remove the plastic screw without pushing against them. Kind of tricky but it can be done. 2. Then grab a 10mm socket and remove all 6 bolts holding the black plate to the mounting on the block.... 3. Unplug the old APPS sensor. 4. Remove the 2 Torx screws holding the old APPS sensor. This part I kind fudge over Timbo idea and made it simple. I grab a pair of pilers grab the head of the screw and broke them loose then used a T20 bit to finish removing. This way there is no worry about stripping the heads out. Notice the screw heads have tool marks... 5. Replace the APPS sensor with Timbo APPS sensor in the same position and line up the slot with the bell-crank tab. Use the supplied screw. Just before you finish tighten the screw turn the sensor fully clockwise to remove extra twisting slack. 6.Plug in the wiring and re-assemble the APPS sensor plate again with the 6 bolts. 7. Now adjust for slack. Use the supplied paper clip and insert it in the green port on the plug. Turn your key ON and look at the voltage. Now using the screw on the bell crank stop (one towards the front) adjust till the voltage rises the back off till you hit your original mark plus 1/2 turn. Since mine was .633 I turn till it rose and the backed off to .633 and then another 1/2 turn. Your all set! 8. Disconnect your batteries and do a APPS sensor reset. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm Actual article with pictures here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing

Actually the spring isn't to bad for strength (after opening Taz's VE pump of Gov Spring 366). The problem is that as you adjust the fuel screw inward your idle speed rises. Then if over adjusted then theengine goes into full runaway mode. (which I'm glad to say never happen yet). So in reverse repect if the screw was to back out then the idle falls. so what do you do while turning up the screw and the idle screw now is gone and you can reduce the idle anymore??? Simple you re-index the arm of the throttle. But the point I'm making is that with a auot pin like your figuring it going to change a bunch of stuff like idle speed and such. so I hate to say it but the idea is kind of short.

Yeap... That Morgan Lake... what actually occured is that I past my turn in the trail and went up the mountain too far to nearly another lake. Give you a clue... Go to Google Maps and type in Pinehurst, ID and then look due east from the highway. Keeping to spring thread... This is my goal to get back up in here and fish the back country lakes...

Like ISX said it a smart idea to add in all the extra and plan ahead...

Surprised you don't have freeze up problem with moisture coming out of the crankcase...