Mopar1973Man

The TQ Conv will stay with the trans as it comes out... Once on the ground and out from under the truck you can slide it off the input shaft and deal with it... Might dribble a bit...

There is a couple of place where you can grab it... Like right in front of you grab the upper lip and pull straight out firmly... Be careful and work around with it so you don't break it... On the manual trans there is a little hole on the right hand corner (By the cubby hole) I normally can get started with...

Wow... That's really odd... What comes to mind is a cam sensor vs. VP44 signals... Being that idle is figured by the ECM and also noticing you idle RPM's appears low on the stock gauge (700-750 RPM's). The rapid fall is strange too with the bounce. But just tossing ideas out again... Sticking injector? Something wrong with the VP44? Bad flash on the ECM? (Might try borrowing a Smarty). Tell your camera man to learn how to hold still... I'll think more about it...

Be aware that transfer case is heavy and to drain the fluid before you pull it off... Could get rather messy...

Ok... The trans jack will work but be aware the weight of the transfer case will tip the adapter back on you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=979 I ended up using another bottle jack to suppot the Tranfer Case and had to perate both jacks evenly to get the angle right ot insert the input shaft into the clutch... Automatic much easier to do line up the TQ conv button and go for it...

Well the cross member is easy with a bottle jack and a cut 2x4... As for help... I did my trans removal and install by myself...

Like Taz here has a 92 dodge with a NV4500 tied to the flywheel... It appears to be a very easy swap if needed... But I've also heard the same thing ISX mention about over filling by a extra quart through the top... As for the oil slinger I've never heard of that but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt to invest a little time to make it bullet proof!

I won the bet did I??? Pay up...

Sealed unit... sorry...

I was giving you crap about the swap... (But you took it ) Actually it would be better to just do a TC and VB and get good ones... Then it should hold up for quite a while...

Not exactly a good way to judge a lift pump... I've seen dead truck out here along the highway and the owner would bump the starter and here a buzzing noise. But no fuel ever came out... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=323 Funny part was i took apart the lift pump and found his plastic hub gone... It must of chewed it up and sent it down the line...

I would say convert to a 5 or 6 speed and be done...

I got a phone call from him... He's got no fuel pressure gauge and no idea if the fuel pump is working. Also he's got no tools current in the truck so he's headed home to get tools and check for fuel flow to the VP44 and try a re-prime and see if the VP44 is spraying fuel to the injectors... I'm under the impression maybe he ran out of fuel?? (Fuel filter housing not full)

Stock I saw 18-19 PSI boost pressure WOT... Edge Comp 5x5 and RV275 I see 34 PSI... But tip the Pyro at 1,450 to 1,500*F WOT at 100 MPH... You need a Big Line kit... 8 PSI is way to low!

Got steel and brass both... Steel 3/4" to 1/2"Brass 1/2" to 1/8"

Figures... It's still better than stock filters alone...

Check again it might of popped back up...

Sorry... I was trying to create the graphic quickly... But it what every your tag voltage is you want to be slightly below this number by like -0.010 Volts would be a good starting point... Because as the APPS wears out and the voltage rises or lowers then it might cross the line again...

Funny... That is my number repair is fixing Win XP virus and worm attacks... What I'm finding out no matter what you use for Anti-virus or Firewall it doesn't stop them from coming through the browser and latching into the system without notice. Since MicroSoft stopped updating the software back in 2007 basically the Win XP is like a bucket full of holes it just leak in or out anything it want without notice ot the owner... At least Vista is rock solid... As for Windows 7 its got a few issues I see that are a problems. Like secuirty software now has a slider so owners can shut it off where Vista either had off and on. Well I'm seeing the same problem now on Win7 too. People are getting a annoyed with the notice box and sliding the slider all the way down to nothing so it doesn't pop up and BAM! Back to the leaky bucket problem... I keep telling people put the slider back up and leave it alone... It ther for protection of your computer...

Are you sure you got it flashed in? remember the volts on th my pics is the one from someone else APPS sensor replace with your own number...

Typically once a year with the 2-3 Micron Fleetguard... It about 25K to 30K miles a year... By that time I typically see a drop of 2 PSI from 17 PSI...

Really good idea... White smoke is a good sign of retarded timing.... Did you install the right key? did you install it in the right direction? Did the key fall out during the install? As for the injectors... The only thing I can think off is a failed injector(s) that cause white smoke but since there new I'm going to fall back to the VP44 key...

Every Sunday here too...

Ouch... That got galled up...

Power puck is a mild power enhancement... But like W&F asked if the puck hooks to the MAP sensor and the ECM lead? If so it does fooler the boost... If not and you add a elbow you'll see most likely a CEL light and error codes like P0234...