Mopar1973Man

The IAT temp must drop below 32*F to start high idle and drop below 15*F to start 3 cylinder high idle... Then the high idle is cancelled by engine temp reaching 175*F, brake pedal, transmission in gear (auto), movement, etc... Here is a quick video if it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=il7iJCKfmaE

You got to pull the trigger for yourself... But now you get to buy another...

Any wire should work... Just needs to be like 22 AWG bell wire really...

You should be seeing fuel from all the line opened... This sound like a broken rotor shaft being its pumping more on 1 cylinder than the other... But I know you physically didn't break it... Did you double check all your connections and solder joints that they are good??? Are you seeing any error codes??? You might be looking at a new VP44... Sorry...

It has been brought to our attention for some unknown reason RCTrucking has been deleted from our account records here on the forum. I have no idea how this occured. RCTrucking is one of the first big donors the to the site during the PHPbb to Vbulletin update. We are trying to make this right with RCTrucking currently andwhile we are doing it has anyone else had account issues? Please report all problems to me... I'll make it right.. Towards the bottom of the list early on... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/donations/donation.htm

No kidding... Even with trialer brakes that's just a wee bit scary for weight... I remember hauling a Backhoe to my place from New Meadows (20 miles) and I did have a trailer brake... talk about plenty of power to drag but even with the E Brake and service brake you need more room to stop... So in the long haul you should stick to the GVWR that is in the owners manual... The truck will thank you...

There is actually a cleaning procedure in the Dodge FSM now that you reminded me of that W&F... I always wnodered why the write up but then I always explained it away from a blown turbo...

No comment... (Shaking my head) Inside joke and you would have to go back through many pages of JL welding posts to understand...

That was my first step in trying to fix my problems...($125 for the big line kit) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=181 But after replacing 3 lift pumps at $200 in under 1.5 years... (Totaling up $600 = $725 total package) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=182 Then 4th pump failed... I threw up my hands and got... (AirDog 150 - $520 - 3 years ago!) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=180 So now... looking back it would of been much cheaper to just jump once and do it right with a known good pump that has a good reputation also a lifetime warranty!

Shoot to do a injection pump is a cake walk once you done it once... The biggest thing is to have the gear puller and it worth the $50 bucks to buy one... Beyond that it just a matter of twisting wrench and sockets... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=615

Actually it does explain it good... Makes a lot of sense about the gears beating against each other causing a tapping or knocking noise.

Well I'm going to rebuild and lube everything up in inside the HVAC box while its out. So hopefully I can have better than +10 years worth of service from my A/C without sweating it (Pun intended! )

Ae you using any kind of oil or oil treatment on the outerwears? If so quit... The thing is if there is any kind of oil on the filter it won't shed the dust... That is how mine stays clean. As I go over the washboard road the vibration shakes the dust right off it... I'll have to get a pic of the dust piles in the heat shield in the summer time... Check this out... http://www.filterminder.com/ http://www.filterminder.com/mythvsfact.asp I made it to 116K miles and still going...

Ok gang... How many miles do you have on your diesel vehicles? All makes and model accepted in the vote... Please post the year, make and model, and all other good information... 2002 Dodge 2500 - Cummins 24V - 4WD - 166K miles. Bomb list is rather long...

There is the man with the miles...

Be careful what you ask for... I just got up from my chair and head right out to the shop and shot the pics and came back in and uploaded them to the site... Here is a 6 year old filter without a Outerwears, no maintenance, and filter filter minder still not moved... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=925 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=924 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=923 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=922 How to test your filter minder... Yes I did have a outerwears for about 1 year but the constant bouncing and rubbing wore holes in the outerwears so I toss it out... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jd7XsYrKI Every year I'm out on dirt road making trips up and down the mountain... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=928

4" is usually easy to install and fits with your spare tire... 5" I heard can be rather difficult to fit and some have had to remove there spare tire out from under the truck. Now as for noise... I've heard many stories... But I think the 5" is louder than 3" or 4"... IMHO...

As far as I know of there isn't any engine brakes out there for the ISB engines. But there is several styles of exhaust brakes out. Give you an idea of how much its save your brake pads. I'm still traveling on my factory brake pads from 2002 when I bought the truck new. I've got over 166K on the clock and might do a brake job around 200K miles. That's not bad in my book. This includes crawling down the Idaho mountains with a 8x8 utility trailer hauling nearly 3 cords of firewood (truck loaded too).

Ok Gang... I've got a project coming up. I need to change my A/C evaporator out and know I need to pull the dash out... Throw me a bone here guys tell me the secrets of doing this job and any special tools I might need. Because the last thing I want to do is drive 100 miles round trip because I forgot something or have to pull it apart again because I should of done it another way... I knew this day was coming...

I might have to change those screws out when I pull my HVAC out to do my A/C Evaporator...

Talk to CajFlynn... He hauls boats cross country some that are even wide loads...

I've really consider upgrading my exhaust but...

Actually from what I heard high pressure doesn't tear the diaphragm it's extremely low pressure that does. Yeah there is a good thread about fuel pressure and some of the tidbit we all learned about over here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1656-VP44-Write-Up-Minimum-pressure-suggested... But typically most will suggest you stay in the green. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=374

Good to hear it... I'm going to be changing another TP roll myself really soon every 2,500 miles and changing the oil every 10K miles... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=363 They got to be filtering out the trash... Are you still running WalMart SuperTech Engine Oil too?

Color doesn't count... What counts is how much vacuum (water column) its creating... Mine is road dirt grey and still not creating any vacuum yet... I just check the old filter minder...