Mopar1973Man

After 7 years of listening to it constant whistle at 300-500 miles trips... It gets rather old... So Sad to say my ring was re-installed. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1039

Yeah... There is a bunch for that... But then I would be most likely the one called to save his but and the Ford... Remember I'm fire Fighter and search & rescue... ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 PM ---------- http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfQc4C_2ohs ---------- Post added 06-04-2010 at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was 06-03-2010 at 10:10 PM ---------- Update... 9 feet of water and rising... Elk Lake Road Bridge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1121 MP 181 water is just about level with the highway... As a matter of fact the highway washed out here back in 1996/1997 flood and it was 12.3 feet. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1120 One of the local neighbor foot bridges... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1119 MP181 different anlge... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1118 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1117 ---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 AM ---------- Well... I've been listening to the scanner and the local sheriff and Idaho transportation is getting campers and RV's out of camp site along the river... The water is current at 9.91 Feet and flood stage is 10 feet. There is a low spot in Riggins, ID where the river will close the highway really soon. Then just south of me at MP 181 the ITD is standing watch and the highway is getting undermined so a soon as this spot gets bad it will be closed too... I've got plenty of fuel, wood and food... I'm all set... As for highway 95 the sheriff is now having to closely monitor the highway the river is now cover a small section of highway and going to be closed before nightfall most likely. Update riverflow 10.16 feet (past flood stage now). Still forecasted to rise even more...

I relize the rolling resistance and hydro-plane problem... But I think the moist air tend to retard burn rate of the fuel... (theory...) What I'm finding out is that IAT is a big controlling factor in MPG's... Colder the intake air the more fuel must be delievered because of cold air is more dense so keeping the balance the fuel rate must be increased. But bring on a hot summers day and 100*F dry weather and you most likely find a increase in MPGs... Warm air is less dense and requires less fuel... Not to mention warm air creates less wind drag...

Well Gang... My boost gauge finally gave up from all the rough washboarded roads anf the face screws fell out... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1126 So I removed the gauge from the pillar pod. Then carefully using a small flat blade screwdriver I carefully pryed the black bezel ring crimp from the body. Becarel not to over bend the bezel or warp it. Once you remove the glass face you need to remove the 2 screws in the back near the nipple. Then carefully remove the guts. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1122 Now when you remove the guts make sure you don't squeeze the Bordon tube or any of the internal part or you'll damage the internal parts and the accuracy of the gauge. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1125 So I replaced the 2 face screws and snugged them up. Then careful reassembled the gauge. But when it came to re-crimpping the bezel ring I slipped it back on and using a flat blade screwdriver I held it cross wise to the gauge bezel and placed about 6 crimps in it. All fixed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1123

Well gang... I made a trip down to Mountain Home ID in poor weather and the outside temp was ranging between 50-70*F and the IAT was range 85*F to 110*F. Now what I found out with cold wet weather is that it tends to kill off the MPG rather quickly. Now with flooded highways and cold moist air just pulled my MPG's down to about 18 MPG which happens to be about -2 off from my typical normal. Now the Next day making a routine trip to Riggins, ID I still came back to my typical 20 MPG average but the weather was dry for the moment, warmer, and IAT was staying more so in the 100-110*F bracket.

Ummm... Pull the dash??? Why the blend door is under the dash... Passenger side floor near the trans hump...

Ok... So you need a RadBox and wire up a relay for the pump... The RadBox will cut the speed limiter (governor) completely. What it does it kills the signal to the instrument panel so the ECM/PCM never know how fast your going so it continues fuel MAX all the time. Then for the fuel pump you wire up the standard ECM and Relay setup. But now add a DPDT switch in the ECM line going to the relay. One side of the switch is normal ECM triggered for everyday driving. Then the other side is FORCED ON power for Racing. Left contacts - ECM powerRight Contact - Key On PowerCenter Contact - To the relay.

Well it seems you found your leak... If you got the just the IC plugged off it shouldn't drop any pressure at any rate... As for the MPG and smoke... Oh trust me... If you loose just 1 bolt out of the maniold (6mm hole) its a enough to bring the boost pressure right down, low in power, really smokey, and whistlin' PSSST!

Taz here with a 1992 Dodge bought a NAPA fan clutch with no issues for 3 years now... The best part is that it was cheap...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1096 Blue hose (low side) Read Hose (high side) Yellow hose vacuum or freon change. Charge with freon till the low side is about 40 PSI...

It don't appear much bigger just taller... But hard to judge in the pic...

Ummm... I did mine and it wasn't too hard... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1788-A-C-Evaporator-amp-Heater-core-write-up! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 Fan clutch is a bit of fun I did a fan Clutch on a 92 and use a long piece of re-bar and a hammer to get it knocked loose... It a left hand thread so remember its backwards...

That won't work... The problem is that after the fuel temp is over 60*F the power is shutoff (In design)... As for the ECM cutting the fuel pump it should be cutting power at anytime during engine run. I would wire in a test light and see if the power is constant at WOT operation. If so then your FASS is on its way out...

Well Gang... The river water is rising again tonight... I'm also a active fire fighter and search and rescue volenteer. So if I'm here one minute and gone sorry... I got a bigger problem to handle so... Say a prayer ot two for me... http://water.weather.gov/ahps2/hydro...,1,1,1,1,1,1,1 http://forum.tractor-forum.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=6775&stc=1&d=1275620383

Something to think about... Without my Edge Comp (completely disconnected) and stock injectors with a boost elbow I still can pull almost 25 PSI of boost... Now with Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injector I bury my 35 PSI boost gauge most times... 34-35 PSI of boost... High pyro temps means lack of boost. Lost of black smoke mean lack of boost... If the wastegate wasn't shutting completely it can't build full boost. If there is a boost leak like a gasket or such the boost pressure could be lower.

Anyone want to verify my info... As for the smoke... Heavy black smoke means there is excessive fuel to air ratio. Do you have a boost leak? I just lost a manifold bolt not to long ago and found that 6mm bolt hole can really drop boost pressure. Is the IAT temp sensor correct? I've seen where a IAT sensor reading lower temp create some dark clouds... Ummm... I left my IAT fooler on from high idle and boy at 26*F worth of manifold temp it can dump some thick black clouds! So check you IAT sensor with a live data tool it should read roughly +40*F over outside temp while cruising... Or the same temp of the coolant in the morning. Wastegate hung up and not closing completely? I seen a few report of P0234 code and found the wastegate frozen. Is it possible the wastegate is hanging up and not closing completely?

Interesting... about the HHC I never knew that someone made it. Yeah I'm finding out when thing go wrong its best ot find a Factory Service Manual for the vehicle... How about one of these... http://pdftown.com/Pdf-eBook/Subaru.html Good reference site...

From what I found that number is a Stock 235 HP Bosch injector... http://www.o-f-i.com/index.php?pid=15 http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/productOutput.php?VehNum=&partNum=BOS0432193629 http://www.swdiesel.com/new-bosch-oe-injector-b-dodge-trucks-19985-2002-59l-235h-p-1011.html?cPath=12&zenid=6e00d972c17278392d1047e9f1b166d9

Wow! That's wild to see poor fuel effect it that bad... I'm sure your going to be picky about what you put in the fuel tank from here on out...

Looks like the calipers were binding up a bit being the shoes are un-even in wear...

Well... I got one for ya ISX... I know Excel is capable of being used like a database. So what is wrong with the idea of placing all you maintenance record on Excel... Is there some way of putting the intervals and having Excel tell you its due? One I'm using is Excel for fuel records but it need refining because I got to manual edit the math for each entry... But I got full graphs and fuel records... You want me to email it to ya?

Should be a number stamped on the injectors... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62&stc=1&d=1260397958

Ok... Give me a sec... --- Done... ODS is added to the attachment list...

I'm surprised... That XLS file is for 97-2003 MS Office... Huh? "ODS"???

Geez... Someday I might do my first brake pad change... (167K on the clock) Yeap... i'm still running the factory brake pads from the day I bought the truck... Never changed them yet... Usually when pads start to wear weird or uneven you can bet money there is a caliper slide pin or a piston that is binding up and causing this pattern... Every other time I bleed my brake system I pull the calipers apart and wash and re-assemble them making sure there is no binding pistons and the slide pins are lubed up good.