Mopar1973Man

Oh yeah I forgot about the old torch where the flame color told you the leak... (If I remember right) Yeah your right about the dye. Since my leak was in the evaporator it didn't show up at all... The funny part was I dump the drier can out and let the oil drip out a clean bucket and in about 15-30 minutes the dye color disappears. So if it was a slow leak and hidden you might not find it...

Yeap... Way to much pressure on the low side...http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1099 I'm just above the cutoff switch and maybe use another can but... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1095 It's down right cold in the cab...

Ummm... Just lift the dash slightly and the HVAC comes right out... Another reason I didn't bother to pull my dash is my gauge pod plumbing and wiring is wrapped up in the dash. Plus on top of that the dah was heavy as hell... I think more so heavy that early 2nd Gen's...

Main level. (First number) 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevel (Second number) Defuel mode - These 3 levels are design for smoke control. The fuel rate is cut below stock rates! 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI Boost pressure. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI Boost pressure. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI Boost pressure. Power Mode. 4. Some extra fuel at 0 PSI boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI boost. Explaination... [*]Main level is the maximum amount of fuel and timing you'll recieve total from the Edge Comp. The higher the main level more timing and fuel given total. [*]Sublevel is how fast you get to max fuel and timing in relationship to boost pressure. [*]Running a Edge Comp or Edge Juice un-tapped with only net you 40 HP regardless of the level settings... [*]Running a Edge Comp on 5x5 will net you the best MPGs with a light foot. [*]Remember using a 1-3 sublevel will keep you most likely in below stock power band till you exceed the boost pressure limit so if you normal cruise 60 MPH is 3-4 PSI of boost you need to at least run #4 on the sublevel to get a timing/fuel enhancement.

WTH??? You pulled your seats out! http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1034 Still got my seats in...

That was my thought too... Being the owner doesn't seem to have the code this time... Also I forgot to mention the fact he had it completely shut down once throw a few error codes including ECM failure... Then waited for about 15 mintues and it fired right back up like nothing happened... I suggested a wet or loose connection to this problem...

Ah Geez... I want to grab my diving gear and get suited up and haul right down the beach and enjoy the salt water again... Chasing lobsters and crabs... (Dreamin') Yes I'm a certified SCUBA diver too...

I got a neighbor up the road from me with a 3rd Gen (03 or 04). He's got a few problems... P0483 - Fan clutch problem? Then high rail pressure error... What to do about the fan clutch and high rail pressure...

Ok... I can play too... I post again at the high point...

As for the vent controls sound like a vacuum leak. As for the A/C you need to fire up the truck and check and see if the compressor is coming on and cycling on/off constantly... This is a sign of low pressure. If its me I would get a dye pack nad add that to the system and them recharge. Then using a black light check for leaks. I know you limited on movement but is a solution to chasing down the problem. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1036 To bad you on the other side of the island I would be more that happy to grab my gauges and charge it back up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1057

Hey ISX (and others) you guys were asking about the temp gauge in my truck under my dash well I found my documents for it... Made By: Pana-Pacific Corp http://www.panapacific.com/ Here is a Ebay listing... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pana-Pacific-Digital-Clock-Temperature-Guage-Alarm-12v-/320541686107?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4aa1c5f95b Pana-Pacific-Gauge.PDF

Most laptops fail from heat issues... Some are either not out fitted with the proper fans, get plugged up with dust, or the fan seize (bearings dry out). Now being that most laptops small opens for ventilation so it can be really hard to keep it cool. Dell's are the worse for fires... Another Dell smoked...

A way to validate post #11 is just look at the valvetrain when your doing your valve lash... First batch is done at TDC #1 (153) then your rotate the crank 360* and now your at TDC #6 (624)... Firing order 153624...

Sound like it got a pepsi wash... I'm going to say its done...

I would check memeory and see if the RAM is a issue... Bad stick of memory... While the memory is out try firing it up again and see if your audio beeping at you for a memory error that will at least tell you the pBIOS and CPU are functional to some extent...

Just did a trip down to Ontario, OR with my used and beat up RV275's and still pulled 21.3 MPG when I pull in the driveway listening to my random miss.

Here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-replacement.html

Well the Edge Comp are normally pretty cheap as a used box but you can build your level to suit your trans. Like 1x5, 2x4, 3x3, 4x2, 5x1... Very flexible power and still get to keep the 120 HP... As for the link that fine... I believe in link love to other sites...

Ummm... Vertical clearance? I guess I'll have to wait and see...

Hmmm... Your a bad influence... Well at this point and time I don't need it but I might take you up on the offer...

Ummm... I would just give Edge A quick call to find out... If not they would be able to issue you a new wiring harness so you could... Remember Edge will only go as far as the sensors... Like I know the MAP sensor is limited to about 38-40 PSI...

Actually I got a wild idea... Drill a hole in each side a insert a stiff piece of wire... Kind of like old wire clothes hangers would work good... Can even paint it black to look nice... I might have to do it to Mom's truck...

Pressure drop and why... Well its pretty simple when you take the fitting out there will be a spring sticking out. When you grab the spring and pul it out be aware if the check ball is stick in the coil of the spring. If so then that the problem. What happen is the check ball is pulsating against the spring and start to work into the coils of the spring. Once that happens the pressure starts to fall a bit. I suggested that AirDog need to create a collar washer that sits on top of the spring and keeps the check ball from wedging down in the coils but provides a solid seat for it. Kind of like the washers used in a Holley Double Pumper carbs... Yes the washer goes in the return side... Hose -> Fitting -> Washer -> Spring -> Check Ball | Pump body... (Stack in that order)

I tend to agree... I think the reason why the stop and go traffic is so hard on it is because there is little to no air movment... Kind of like riding my Goldwing in Boise, ID traffic. It would climb the temp gauge quick and high... But I added a toggle switch to force the fan on. Well that cured most of the problems with slow driving in towns... But for a Cummins since the fan is belt driven your going to need a electric fan like W&F mention...

Sloppy job expect ot get diesel all down your arm...