Mopar1973Man

Ok if its it is a TQ Conv thing... Then you could try something fire it up place the trans in Neutral and let it warm up a bit. This will pump the TQ conv full of fluid... But the funny part is the TQ conv has no direct connection on the input shaft so if the TQ conv was to drain down some it won't move forward or reverse properly. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_Convertor As for the "crunch noise" problem that occurs between shifts is what bugs me more.

I really do hate having to wait for mail or frieght. It's always my luck anything I order through the mail I end up with the worng part, product, etc. As for where I live its extremely quiet...

I'm going to assume its trans related for sure. But what is odd is it backs up fine shift ot drive and get a "Crunch" noise and die... I wonder if a clutch pack is no releasing... (Guessin') If it was a TQ Conv I would figure it would cause it an either R or Drive... So my vote is on the trans... Time to drop the pan and see if there is debris in the pan...

I guess I've never had those issues... Hot wrench for frozen fasteners... Nyloc fasteners for vibration problems... Actually yes I do need to get a bottle of anti-seize (I'm just about out). And Need to get some loc-tite too the tube of red I have here is dried up on the shelf... Yeah I know there is blue and green too..

Ok... Just send back down to me by mail or Yuotube it...

Before something break you better pull the trans down and inspect it... There is just no way around it... As for mine it did the same thing and I caught mine before it blew up... It was extremely hard to get into any gear and you had to fight with the trans to get back into gear... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=981 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=982

Worth a shot and checking the valve lash... But I would check all the exhaust piping too...

But that still leaves you with high pressure during startup. Some VP44 just don't like it...

Hmmm... Start from the tire going towards the steering wheel... Tire lug nus (Tight)Wheel bearingsball jointstie rod endstrac bardrag linksteering boxsector adjustmentrag joint (in steering shaft)steering shaft u-joints Those are all the point I can think off that play can sneak in on you... Maybe a few others I forgot...

Tierod ends, steering shock, or trac bar?

There is no way to trade the port either each port is different so the coupler can't be traded... I'll get some pics of the ports.

Funny how that works so well... Glad to see it did thetrick easy for ya... Here is my orignial post of it... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/480-Adjusting-AirDog-150-pressures...?p=2917#post2917

Ummm... Don't have any... Closest place that got some is 52 miles away...

Ok let trade it up... Now here is gasoline Dodge V8... Look where the blue and red hoses are now... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1058 Now diesel... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1096

After 7 years of listening to it constant whistle at 300-500 miles trips... It gets rather old... So Sad to say my ring was re-installed. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1039

Yeah... There is a bunch for that... But then I would be most likely the one called to save his but and the Ford... Remember I'm fire Fighter and search & rescue... ---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:15 PM ---------- http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfQc4C_2ohs ---------- Post added 06-04-2010 at 11:21 AM ---------- Previous post was 06-03-2010 at 10:10 PM ---------- Update... 9 feet of water and rising... Elk Lake Road Bridge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1121 MP 181 water is just about level with the highway... As a matter of fact the highway washed out here back in 1996/1997 flood and it was 12.3 feet. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1120 One of the local neighbor foot bridges... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1119 MP181 different anlge... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1118 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1117 ---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:21 AM ---------- Well... I've been listening to the scanner and the local sheriff and Idaho transportation is getting campers and RV's out of camp site along the river... The water is current at 9.91 Feet and flood stage is 10 feet. There is a low spot in Riggins, ID where the river will close the highway really soon. Then just south of me at MP 181 the ITD is standing watch and the highway is getting undermined so a soon as this spot gets bad it will be closed too... I've got plenty of fuel, wood and food... I'm all set... As for highway 95 the sheriff is now having to closely monitor the highway the river is now cover a small section of highway and going to be closed before nightfall most likely. Update riverflow 10.16 feet (past flood stage now). Still forecasted to rise even more...

I relize the rolling resistance and hydro-plane problem... But I think the moist air tend to retard burn rate of the fuel... (theory...) What I'm finding out is that IAT is a big controlling factor in MPG's... Colder the intake air the more fuel must be delievered because of cold air is more dense so keeping the balance the fuel rate must be increased. But bring on a hot summers day and 100*F dry weather and you most likely find a increase in MPGs... Warm air is less dense and requires less fuel... Not to mention warm air creates less wind drag...

Well Gang... My boost gauge finally gave up from all the rough washboarded roads anf the face screws fell out... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1126 So I removed the gauge from the pillar pod. Then carefully using a small flat blade screwdriver I carefully pryed the black bezel ring crimp from the body. Becarel not to over bend the bezel or warp it. Once you remove the glass face you need to remove the 2 screws in the back near the nipple. Then carefully remove the guts. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1122 Now when you remove the guts make sure you don't squeeze the Bordon tube or any of the internal part or you'll damage the internal parts and the accuracy of the gauge. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1125 So I replaced the 2 face screws and snugged them up. Then careful reassembled the gauge. But when it came to re-crimpping the bezel ring I slipped it back on and using a flat blade screwdriver I held it cross wise to the gauge bezel and placed about 6 crimps in it. All fixed... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1123

Well gang... I made a trip down to Mountain Home ID in poor weather and the outside temp was ranging between 50-70*F and the IAT was range 85*F to 110*F. Now what I found out with cold wet weather is that it tends to kill off the MPG rather quickly. Now with flooded highways and cold moist air just pulled my MPG's down to about 18 MPG which happens to be about -2 off from my typical normal. Now the Next day making a routine trip to Riggins, ID I still came back to my typical 20 MPG average but the weather was dry for the moment, warmer, and IAT was staying more so in the 100-110*F bracket.

Ummm... Pull the dash??? Why the blend door is under the dash... Passenger side floor near the trans hump...

Ok... So you need a RadBox and wire up a relay for the pump... The RadBox will cut the speed limiter (governor) completely. What it does it kills the signal to the instrument panel so the ECM/PCM never know how fast your going so it continues fuel MAX all the time. Then for the fuel pump you wire up the standard ECM and Relay setup. But now add a DPDT switch in the ECM line going to the relay. One side of the switch is normal ECM triggered for everyday driving. Then the other side is FORCED ON power for Racing. Left contacts - ECM powerRight Contact - Key On PowerCenter Contact - To the relay.

Well it seems you found your leak... If you got the just the IC plugged off it shouldn't drop any pressure at any rate... As for the MPG and smoke... Oh trust me... If you loose just 1 bolt out of the maniold (6mm hole) its a enough to bring the boost pressure right down, low in power, really smokey, and whistlin' PSSST!

Taz here with a 1992 Dodge bought a NAPA fan clutch with no issues for 3 years now... The best part is that it was cheap...

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1096 Blue hose (low side) Read Hose (high side) Yellow hose vacuum or freon change. Charge with freon till the low side is about 40 PSI...

It don't appear much bigger just taller... But hard to judge in the pic...