Mopar1973Man

Emailed to ya!

Seriously... Drive down I'll whip through most of it... Of course you get to do most of the work while I hold my beer in one hand and a video camera in the other telling you what to do...

Cam cover down on the driver side above the ECM... Run the length of the cam..

Cool... I really shocked to see the 12V injector is very close in design to the 24V other than body and nozzle differences they appear to have the very same guts as a 24V injector... Wow! Now I guess I get to build a page for 12V and 24V injector cleaning... And you get to help out ISX... See what happens when you try to best me...

Like Jim said there is no reason to change the connector tubes unless they are damaged. Now if the injectors have been in there a long time it might be a good idea to change the O-rings on the connector tubes for safety sake...

Right on the money... If there was a intank pump there would be a aluminum block in place of the old carter pump on the block.

Really... Boy someone got your goat... I just check my Mitchell 1 books and its a 4.7 hour job... Period! Not hard to do either... Pull the fuel filter, ECM, and VP44 and change it out... I did my buddy's 92 Dodge in about 4 hours...

Sound like a good idea... Yeah right you big meany...

Just for fun I'll have to make a vid of that using a socket on the alternator pulley...

I did the Southbend Con OFE comes with flywheel and everything... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/sbc/sbc.htm I also haul about 10-12 cords of firewood a year... Yes I use 5th gear too... no problem with 5th gear nut in over 171K miles (knockin' on wood - firewood that is!)

Hmmm... Really... Thats a shocker?! Your right it is... Now how would want to do a dumb thing like that? I'll have to stomp on them? Whao! hostage??? But I could build the directory of links to the weird things I come up with I'm sure I can get the mods to help out with tidbits too. Yet me see what I can do...

This is the best I can show you... The is my setup on my fog lamps. At least you can see the relay and the pins and how I dealt with the constant +12V and switched ground.. Looking at the wiring diagram and looking closely at your post the wiring seems correct but there is something wrong with the relays I'm starting to think... You could try dracozny idea... The only thing that comes to mind is make sure you looking at the right pins on the relay... 30, 87, 87a run the 3 up the middle where 86 and 85 are sideways and run up the side typically.

Well gang... I'm back at it again... Had to build another tool for the Cummins. I built a simple cap for the mouth of the turbo out of a small piece of 4" ABS sewer line, 4" ABS cap, air hose fitting (male), and the rubber sewer boot... Here is a short vid I shot of it... I got a new hose on it... And relize there was still a small air leak remember the bleed hole in the boost elbow... :banghead:

Wild & free is the man that can guide you over this hurdle...

Well it not the prefect way but you can us the alternator... Turn it towards the coolant bottle...

Oh wow... Ummm... First thought to mind is Ebay or your local wrecking yard... I'm pretty sure a switch from a 94-02 models would work...

Geez... You guys...

All I can say is double check you wiring closely and maybe use a DVM to check polarity of the wire with the headlights on... Like you said somewhere down the line you got a short to ground...

I need to gather up the AD filter number and update a filter list on my HTML page... Very Helpful information...

RV275 are +40 HP... RV275 - 235 (stock) = 40 HP... The 110 are +110 HP over stock... Or a total of 345 HP (roughly)

I'm sitting here working the forum and listening to the scanner of the local sheriff. About 2 miles from me a motorhome had a flat tire not a blow out but just a flat tire. The onboard computer shutdown the engine and left the motorhome stranded in a blind corner. The local sherif was calling for a tow and the owner must of a found a way to temporary disable the tire sensor to get off the road... They are now calling off the tow truck... I'm so glad I don't have all hese weird features on my truck... I use what called a tire pressure gauge and check my tire pressures often... In 24 years of driving I've only had a few flat tires... Mostly being off road...

I was setup from yesterday and measuring the torque value of the first six as I went along at the point of click it always broke free... Typically I don't do this but I always un-do the TQ value and normally don't use it as a breaker bar but I'm trying to be watchful of the torque numbers... So far the average click is about 30-32 ft/Lbs... I want to make sure I get them back as close as possible not sure if this has a effect on pop pressure or not... Oh... ISX I had all day yesterday to cuss and ****** about screwing up.

Ok Gang... I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happen to mention the fact he did the APPS voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is a article on the Internet that is wrote up wrong and need to be corrected and stopped. Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit this voltage dead on... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. You voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine the voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add in voltage gain or loss during normal operation of the truck it might cross the mark and go off idle and you end up with idle set at 950 to 1000. Then find out your exhaust brake, high idle and a few other things don't work! STOP! Don't set the voltage to the voltage on the label this is WRONG! Like the timbo APPS you adjust to to the point you cross the dead zone and back off below this point 1/2 turn. Reason why is to keep the APPS from accidentally going to OFF idle state. As long as the voltage in the APPS sensor is below this state the the ON idle signal is given to the ECM and the APPS signal is basically ignored and idle programing is used. Like for my example here the voltage on the tag is .553... Now if the alternator or voltage of the system change a little bit you going to have issues of the voltage crossing back and forth over this boundary. Please set your voltage BELOW what on the tag by about 0.020 volts to insure the voltage is low enough to put the APPS sensor in ON Idle state. Problem #2 - Where to measure the voltage? I do know why they started measure the voltage at the PCM in concerns of the TQ Conv Lock up problem but this is wrong too. Now if you go over to my wiring diagrams here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm And now look at Page 1 and look at the PCM on the right at pin #23 you see its labeled ACC PEDAL POS. You think this is tied to the APPS?! Nope... Now switch back to page 3 now at look at the ECM on the right you find the wire at pin #28 on the ECM label ACC PEDAL POS SENS... But now look at all 3 pages this this Orange/Blue wire doesn't connect to the APPS sensor at all but it does pass the information to the PCM after it passes through the ECM (if there is any processing). So now look at Pin #25 on the ECM and you'll see it has a direct connection with the APPS. So if I was going to adjust the stock APPS sensor for voltage I would measure right at the APPS sensor or at the ECM pin #25 which happen to be Light Blue/back wire pin #3 on the APPS. STOP! Don't measure your APPS voltage at the PCM this is WRONG! Measure the APPS voltage at the APPS like Timbo does to if your going for better measure it at the ECM. By the time you measure the voltage at the PCM there might be a minor voltage loss so the voltage at the ECM will be high so hence most people complain about high idle, and other issues! Problem #3 - How to adjust the APPS sensor? There is no need to yank the sensor apart and mess with the 2 torx screw on the back you can obtain all the adjustment you want in the set screw on the bellcrank. But once again don't adjust for the voltage marked on the label... Make sure to flick the throttle bellcrank to WOT ans let it snap back to idle a few times and check you voltage again if the voltage is changing constantly the APPS sensor is wore out and no amount of adjusting is going to fix this problem. STOP! Don't bother messing with the 2 torx screw just adjust the set screw on the bellcrank.

Adding a video I produced quick this morning of the way I did it...

I found a cutaway that is about dead on with the 24V series injector... I know this isn't the Cummins injector but you get to see the spray pattern of a injector as its pop tested...