Mopar1973Man

Simple answer... When you got 190-200*F coolant passage within 6" of the IAT sensor that why... This coolant passage runs the entire length of the manifold on the head. Trust me me IAT and ECT sensor match exactly after sitting cold but after the coolant rises to 120-140*F the offset starts to grow... This why I shake my head to someone that thinks they can make a better cold air intake for a 24V 2nd gen... Hard to do when Cummins is heating the entire manifold with coolant... As for the Stock air box and the BHAF the IAT temp are exactly the same it doesn't change it one bit... Always a +40*F over outside temp difference...

9 - 12oz cans... I don't have deep enough pockets for 9 30# cans...

If so.. 60*F (100*F IAT) to 90*F (130*F IAT) outside temp would be right on the mark for me then... Now 200*F I heard of a few big boys with twins seeing close to 200*F worth of IAT at like 60-70 PSI of boost... Yikes!

But now looking at ISX post... So I would have to drive around in 25-50*F weather for optmial temp of IAT... I hate to sat it but that is the worse temp I take a nasty hit to MPG's and drops down to about 16-17 MPG... Well you better not look at my IAT reading on a hot summer day when I fire up... I've seen 170-190*F in the manifold from heat soak easy... Never shuts down... Very true because the air is less dense and requires less fuel so in turn creates less HP... But now from a cruising stand point it does much better on MPG's...

I'm with you Flman... I'm hoping I can sell the 9 cans of freon now...

how about this evening?

Edge Comp is mounted inside the cab and has 5 LED bar to display setting. Edge EZ is typically mounted under the hood and requires removal of a cover plate to change settings.

Interesting AH64ID... I never had that happen... But I guess I learned something new today...

Geez... I meant the fuel logs...Fuel Records.xls

I just resently got him to double check and make sure he got the right flash on his current ECM... (No dice)

I would hook pu a trailer and some load and drag it up a steep hill keeping the pyro at about 1000-1100*F for a good 5-7 miles and that will clean the injectors... 2 way for dirt to to enter a injector... 1. From the fuel supply. But if your running a 2 micron filter or even the stock 10 micron fleetguard as long as you stay after the filter changes you should be good. Even then there is a thing called a edge filter before the injector (located in the crossover tube) to protect the injectors from debris. 2. From the combustion. If the tips are getting fouled from carbon build up then my suggestion of getting them hot would clean them better than fuel additives would. As for the noise I think its OK... Mine got a low tone kind of thumping noise that is only noticed with a BHAF. If you hook up the stock box its gone... But if you worried about it you could do a compression test to verify it...

What version of Edge? (Juice, Comp, or EZ)

No it won't... As you use a smoke switch it will fully retard the timing and make it doggy... Take notice to the timing curve at high boost... Top of the graph. So low to no boost is much better for timing and MPG than high boost... This can be heard with a smoke switch. Just ramp up the RPM's about 1,200 RPM's and then toggle the smoke switch on and off and listen to the injection rattle. normal MAP will have rattle and force high boost will loose rattle (retarded timing).

Actually in my case I plastic welded the case of the cruise control unit...

Here is a quick video from my firewood haul... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

PCM fuse is the cruise control... Pull the cruise unit out and double check it for cracks and holes from battery acid errosion

Also check the cruise control unit they have been known to rot from battery acid... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=836 This came from MoparMom's 1996 Dodge Ram gasser...

(Shaking head) You should actually reduce you speed more than chasing a over drive gear unit... Vertical number is required HP. Horizonal number is road speed. Colored lines is drag coeffiency. Typical stock truck without oversize tires and no lift is about 0.48 in drag. Now look at the curve as you increase speed the wind drag grows exponentially. Now if you got a leveling kit or lift kit the drag co. will rise so will oversize tires.

Please do... I might be interested in one... Might kind of looks beat up...

Hmmm... Not bad at all... Really got little rust and doesn't look bad... Thanks for the pics I'm sure someone could use then for reference...

IPA (Rubbing Alcohol) then there is a pale oil too... http://www.telecheminternational.com/IPA_Reagent_ACS.PDF One of the members here suggested I try a can of the seafoam to try and correct my intermitted miss fire I have at idle. well the funny part is the day I added it seem like a it ran a bit different. No there was no 2 cycle oil in the fuel. But after that tank was done it done nothing to change performance. So I returned back to my 2 cycl oil and kept going...

Dude! WTH! That's suppose to be in your truck not on the desk hooked to your laptop...

There was a guy on tyhe internet here that managed to build a communication cord for the OBDII port ans was able to hook up to a laptop using some sort of software he was able to look at and edit the ECM directly like EFI Live like Chevy got... He had a web site up and I manage to capture few tidbits of information before he closed down his web site and this one graph is the only one that I capture before the site disappeared... (Sorry I don't have anymore!)

Then if thats so have both front tires check for balance and true... Then check the wheel bearings as well...

Well... I know mine is caused from fuel contamination... I had #6 injection line dribble down on the clutch and cause to slip now and then which in turn cause a hot spot... Which was shortly after I installed the clutch so my now is jerky or grab at launch now... I've gotten use to it... Same since I'm not going to pull the trans down to re-surface the flywheel and pressure plate to fix it...