Mopar1973Man

This is the best I can show you... The is my setup on my fog lamps. At least you can see the relay and the pins and how I dealt with the constant +12V and switched ground.. Looking at the wiring diagram and looking closely at your post the wiring seems correct but there is something wrong with the relays I'm starting to think... You could try dracozny idea... The only thing that comes to mind is make sure you looking at the right pins on the relay... 30, 87, 87a run the 3 up the middle where 86 and 85 are sideways and run up the side typically.

Well gang... I'm back at it again... Had to build another tool for the Cummins. I built a simple cap for the mouth of the turbo out of a small piece of 4" ABS sewer line, 4" ABS cap, air hose fitting (male), and the rubber sewer boot... Here is a short vid I shot of it... I got a new hose on it... And relize there was still a small air leak remember the bleed hole in the boost elbow... :banghead:

Wild & free is the man that can guide you over this hurdle...

Well it not the prefect way but you can us the alternator... Turn it towards the coolant bottle...

Oh wow... Ummm... First thought to mind is Ebay or your local wrecking yard... I'm pretty sure a switch from a 94-02 models would work...

Geez... You guys...

All I can say is double check you wiring closely and maybe use a DVM to check polarity of the wire with the headlights on... Like you said somewhere down the line you got a short to ground...

I need to gather up the AD filter number and update a filter list on my HTML page... Very Helpful information...

RV275 are +40 HP... RV275 - 235 (stock) = 40 HP... The 110 are +110 HP over stock... Or a total of 345 HP (roughly)

I'm sitting here working the forum and listening to the scanner of the local sheriff. About 2 miles from me a motorhome had a flat tire not a blow out but just a flat tire. The onboard computer shutdown the engine and left the motorhome stranded in a blind corner. The local sherif was calling for a tow and the owner must of a found a way to temporary disable the tire sensor to get off the road... They are now calling off the tow truck... I'm so glad I don't have all hese weird features on my truck... I use what called a tire pressure gauge and check my tire pressures often... In 24 years of driving I've only had a few flat tires... Mostly being off road...

I was setup from yesterday and measuring the torque value of the first six as I went along at the point of click it always broke free... Typically I don't do this but I always un-do the TQ value and normally don't use it as a breaker bar but I'm trying to be watchful of the torque numbers... So far the average click is about 30-32 ft/Lbs... I want to make sure I get them back as close as possible not sure if this has a effect on pop pressure or not... Oh... ISX I had all day yesterday to cuss and ****** about screwing up.

Ok Gang... I just had a wonderful phone conversation with Rburks this morning and his chasing his problems with his idle well he happen to mention the fact he did the APPS voltage adjustment and I like "OMG not again!" There is a article on the Internet that is wrote up wrong and need to be corrected and stopped. Problem #1 - Voltage on label Everyone is trying to hit this voltage dead on... DON'T! This is the voltage that the APPS sensor goes from ON idle start to OFF idle state. You voltage MUST be BELOW this number. Like on mine the voltage is .519. Don't set the voltage at this set it below this mark say .480 to .490 because as you add in voltage gain or loss during normal operation of the truck it might cross the mark and go off idle and you end up with idle set at 950 to 1000. Then find out your exhaust brake, high idle and a few other things don't work! STOP! Don't set the voltage to the voltage on the label this is WRONG! Like the timbo APPS you adjust to to the point you cross the dead zone and back off below this point 1/2 turn. Reason why is to keep the APPS from accidentally going to OFF idle state. As long as the voltage in the APPS sensor is below this state the the ON idle signal is given to the ECM and the APPS signal is basically ignored and idle programing is used. Like for my example here the voltage on the tag is .553... Now if the alternator or voltage of the system change a little bit you going to have issues of the voltage crossing back and forth over this boundary. Please set your voltage BELOW what on the tag by about 0.020 volts to insure the voltage is low enough to put the APPS sensor in ON Idle state. Problem #2 - Where to measure the voltage? I do know why they started measure the voltage at the PCM in concerns of the TQ Conv Lock up problem but this is wrong too. Now if you go over to my wiring diagrams here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/wiring.htm And now look at Page 1 and look at the PCM on the right at pin #23 you see its labeled ACC PEDAL POS. You think this is tied to the APPS?! Nope... Now switch back to page 3 now at look at the ECM on the right you find the wire at pin #28 on the ECM label ACC PEDAL POS SENS... But now look at all 3 pages this this Orange/Blue wire doesn't connect to the APPS sensor at all but it does pass the information to the PCM after it passes through the ECM (if there is any processing). So now look at Pin #25 on the ECM and you'll see it has a direct connection with the APPS. So if I was going to adjust the stock APPS sensor for voltage I would measure right at the APPS sensor or at the ECM pin #25 which happen to be Light Blue/back wire pin #3 on the APPS. STOP! Don't measure your APPS voltage at the PCM this is WRONG! Measure the APPS voltage at the APPS like Timbo does to if your going for better measure it at the ECM. By the time you measure the voltage at the PCM there might be a minor voltage loss so the voltage at the ECM will be high so hence most people complain about high idle, and other issues! Problem #3 - How to adjust the APPS sensor? There is no need to yank the sensor apart and mess with the 2 torx screw on the back you can obtain all the adjustment you want in the set screw on the bellcrank. But once again don't adjust for the voltage marked on the label... Make sure to flick the throttle bellcrank to WOT ans let it snap back to idle a few times and check you voltage again if the voltage is changing constantly the APPS sensor is wore out and no amount of adjusting is going to fix this problem. STOP! Don't bother messing with the 2 torx screw just adjust the set screw on the bellcrank.

Adding a video I produced quick this morning of the way I did it...

I found a cutaway that is about dead on with the 24V series injector... I know this isn't the Cummins injector but you get to see the spray pattern of a injector as its pop tested...

Go to your profile and set your time offset (currently set for mountain DST)... No problem on the wiring ...

Sad to hear that you having such a bad time with 5th Gear... But its true that New Venture is gone... The NV5600 trans where short lived so parts are really tought to find... But the NV4500 series was common so there is aftermarket companies getting parts for them yet... Strange... I do a lot of firwood hauling in the summer time 1 cord in the bed and 1 cord on the trailer and use 5th gear all the time... But never had a issue. Still using the Factory (Mopar Gear lube) and no issues.

Guys got a point... The Dodge Suspension is rough riding empty... But you put a trailer and/or a load in the bed you got a new animal. Mine feels like a old Cadilac with washed out shock when loaded. But take my truck empty up a forestry road and you'll get beat to death...

Now after doing the injectors yesterday I notice my fan was unlocked and free spinning. Then I hear the idle fall and raise. Huh? The A/C was kicking in and out. I didn't bother to put gauges on it but found out the high side switch was kicking it out... The condenser out front was roasting hot (high side pressures must of been high). But once I got rolling and got wind going through it it stopped cycling. Also notice that during my test run the fan stayed locked up and A/C never cycled after that point. Oh yeah... It was only 104*F degrees yesterday...

I know thimage is a bit poor but it should help out with wiring...

UI still think the P0215 code is your issue here being the VP44 electronic might be bad...

It might be a vP44... Still there isn't enough information to condemn it yet...

Continued... Well the shim has to be this side up... Take notice to the side that has the wear mark for the spring... Then place your spring the the body. Then there is a cone shaped piece that goes on top of the spring but make sure to place the hollow side up. This is for the pintle to ride in. The mid body goes on top of this take notice to the pins it will only go on one way... Then your nozzle and pintle goes on top to look like this... The pics I did of one of my stock injectors... Yeah I did it in a hurry and they are not very clean but I'll do them next tomorrow. I'm really shocked at how it change the injector noise, performance is better, smoke is less, clatter is less, etc. But after doing this I now know without a doubt that there is no injector cleaner on the market that can clean a injector. Just soaking them in naphtha (Coleman fuel) would loosen the soot but you still have to go after it with a scotch bright pad to get the carbon off the injector. The pintle have a yellowish tinit but soaking them does nothing either... You still got to attack the pintle with a scotch bright pad too. The soul fact that you need to soak the body to get the shim out is un-real. You can tap it on the desktop and it refuses to fall out... But soak for 10-15 minutes and it falls out in your hand. So after now doing this I going to say after about 100K miles it wouldn't be a bad idea to take them apart and clean them out really good. When I do the stock set I'll take my video camera down to the shop and setup the tripod and shoot video of the assembly and the spray pattern... I know at low pressure it doesn't appear right but you know the holes are open. Another tidbit... RV275 is 820 nozzle number... and strock 235 HP is a 830 nozzle number...

Well gang... I finally had enough of the random misfire that I was having. So this morning I broke down and got the shop clean up enough to get my truck in. So I did the typical disassembly and got the injectors out... This is the internals of a 24V injector (RV275) What I did was made a jig to hold the injector while you remove the nozzle nut. I used a allen wrench in a vise to make said jig. Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. Well I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and a old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the pic above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take a old scotch bright one thats been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern some what but also insures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has wear marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. This side down. Heck... Let me get more pics and I'll continue this write up...

Because where I'm at the winter dip down to -20*F around here and the AirDog has no fuel heater... So I kept the sotck housing for the fuel heater. Yes there is a filter in there to to protect the VP44 from inhaling jello (gelled fuel).

APPS reset here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps.htm And 2 Cycle Oil here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/2-cycle-oil.htm