Mopar1973Man

Here is what I got... http://www.jakebrake.com/products/ld.php Owners Manual... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=81 My write up... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/exhaust-brake/exhaust-brake.htm

I tend to forget about that because my grid heaters are disabled... I un-hook mine very spring and hook the up again in the fall of the year... But if the relay is sticking I would high consider replacing the relays soon...

Looks like your standing on the dam wall... Wow! that is neat though...

http://local.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&q=&vps=1&jsv=259e&sll=42.004186,-74.062807&sspn=0.010954,0.01929&ie=UTF8&geocode=FdrugAIdKeSV-w&split=0 Close but no cigar.... Last resort is not placed correctly... Here is corrected...

Hmmmm... Fishin' I love to be out in a boat catchin' some good trout right about now... The weather is just right for it...

Becareful of the sender...

Double check your grounds as well a weak ground lead can and will cause the very same condition. The master ground for the ECM is buried behind the starter but the code is most likely coming from the PCM...

Mom's got a Auto 96 1/2 ton (gasser 5.9L) and I like the truck in all but I really hate that truck if it got any load at all because coming down hill 1st gear goes all the way to 40 MPH before it holds up good and tight (near redline at 5K RPM's) constantly dragging the brakes. Now my 2002 Cummins 5 speed trailer and bed loaded 2nd gear and the Ex. Brake 20-25 MPH and very controllable... Rarely touch the brakes hence why I got 171K on my factory brake pads... Auto are not suited for this...http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

Heck I love the power chirp I know I'm all together under the hood yet...

Link? I wanted to try that because I'm sure they can't find me...

Yeap that is identical to my Mom's 96 except for where it hooks up...

Now you got to back check for a bleeding switch or its finding ground elsewhere... So double check (By clicking) your hi/lo switch and see if it shuts off...

Don't work on mine... I can pull the key completely out of the ignition in the ACC position and still DING DING DING... I'm just so tired right now I can even figure out how the wiring of the light, door switch and central timer come to play but I'll figure it out...

Hmmm... Problem is everyone is a dealer currently I've got 2 listed on the site as of now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm You may PM the information back and forth you may also contact one that is list above... I've also had 4 other guys asking to become AMSOil dealers here that would flood the site with just too many I figure...

One the 12V series they have buzzers like ISX shown and some are in the fuse panel and some are just under the knee bolster... But now get to the 24V series they embedded the chime (dinger) in the central timer box so if you disconnect that you lose a bunch of things like wipers and other needed stuff. But if you remove the box or find the hole and cover it with duct tape or silcone. I imagine if your smart and looked over the wiring you might even find the trigger lead in the door..

It a power chirp... Something only Cummins has... Actually its totally normal and its caused from the engine stopping faster than the belt and CHIRP!...

Most wil say AMSoil...

Strange but true... I look at it from another point of veiw... But I look at it as its already broke what do you have to loose in trying to fix it. So pulling out the tool box and turning wrench on the truck doesn't bother me one bit. I'll work on engines not a problem... Transmissions well I'm not exactly willing to jump in that arena but when the time comes yeah I make the jump. As for axles/diffs that is a different story too... But since I do live in middle of nowhere Idaho and a mechanic shop is just so far away it best I just dig in and get the proper tools and do it myself. But I agree with you ISX that the only way to do it!

I going on the hunch the slave cylinder wasn't bled properly. Then it would have a short throw. Even mine broke the tabs the very first pedal hit... Truely you don't need the tabs to install a slave it does help keep the slave from pushing out while trying to get the nuts on... What got me scratch my head is if the slave was short throw like it was and never broke the tabs so the trans should of been tough shifting because of the input shaft dragging with the flywheel.

Funny part is since there isn't enough room for 2 guys to work on it 1 of them has to be a supervisor...

Smart idea!

Now that a new twist on this whole thing... I wonder if the ECM is groung through the case of it???

As far as 98.5 to 2002 its power steering fluid but somewhere in the 3rd Gen it switch to ATF...

Have a little faith John you understand what's going on it just that you need more confidence in what you doing... Which comes by doing it yourself and time...

Actually once again there is no reason to adjust the APPS at the PCM... PCM has no bearing on the engine... The only thing the PCM wants to see is throttle position for Auto Trans shift reason and it feed throttle information to the ECM for cruise control... Still and all the ECM is more important to get the value right... Which is setting the APPS below the set on the tag... Anywhere below...