Mopar1973Man

Factory HP for a 98.5 was 215 HP at the flywheel. Well as for where you stand HP wise. There is a lot of factors that will affect a dyno run. Size of tires, dually or single rear, brakes dragging, clutch/TQ Conv performance. The quick and dirty way is a SGII it got a HP display function on it... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP11AVA8ly0 Pretty darn close to what my dyno sheet has... Edge 5x5 381/826 and 379/831 then stock 228/462

No... Different setup completely...

I was trying to find the article I read a long time ago about why the diesel engine was invented. Rudolf Diesel created the engine to run off of spoiled peanuts. So when the peanut when bad in the field he would use a cold press and extract the peanut oil for the diesel engine... Don't quote me on this but it was a article I read a while back...

Come on guys speak up! I travel all over the state of Idaho from time to time so I might be able to stop in and say "Hi!" if I'm in the area...

Hmmm... For life so far I'm up to 6 years (122K miles) and still going without any maintenance to the filter... Filter minder still hasn't moved... I know the filter minder is measure in water column and not inches of mercury.... So the filter minder is rather very sensitive to vacuum...

Most I've ever heard was to keep up on the adjustment of the rear brake shoes...

I was getting ready to add to the HTML pages and found that yes both input and overflow areas under the VP44 electronics are hooked together! Check out this picture closely... Notice you can see the black wire in the other hole on the overflow valve side. So yes both the inlet and overflow valve are connected to each other...

Ok... It is a bit over engineered but it looks like it works really well.

There is no target voltage on the new sensor just turn the screw till the voltage start to rise then back off to it returns then back off additional 1/2 turn. Thats it... No voltage to adjust to... To clear this up more... (The best I can) The fact is that the stock APPS sensor is a rheostat yes. But it is set at a particual voltage to the electronic switch inside reports to the ECM if it at IDLE or THROTTLING. If the voltage rises above the voltage set on the tag the switch changes to THROTTLING. Then when the voltage drops BELOW this voltage on the tag then the ECM switches to IDLING. This means the APPS voltage is disregarded and idling software takes over. NOW... The Timbo APPS... There is no set voltage tag because the switch for ON IDLE and THROTTLING is mechanical this means once the bellcrank gets to a particual angle THROTTLING starts regardless of voltage. So there is no voltage to adjust it just a matter of taking the slack out of the bellcrank. So now you know why you DON'T set for EXACTLY the tag voltage because now it will constantly flip back and forth between IDLING and THROTTLING causing issues with exhaust brakes, high idle software, etc. It not about the voltage its about the fact of the Idle Validation switch state...

Because the one you bought is a Timbo's APPS... You might want to go here for more details on calibration... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1527-Timbo-APPS http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=698

Now after running on my Cooper STT for 2 weeks and watching the MPG fall like a rock I figure i better swap back to the BiG O AT 235/85 R16... I can tell a difference in weigh of the tire by just lifting them but I figure get out the bathroom scale and weigh them... I know this is perfect but this does show a huge difference in rotational mass... Big O AT's 235/85 R16 About 7 inches worth of tread face. Weighing in at about 60 pounds per wheel. Cooper STT's 265/75 R16 about 8 1/2 inches worth of tread face. Weighing in at about 80 pound per wheel. So for a 1 1/2 inch gain of tread face that is aggressive on steel rim give me a -3 to MPG's with a total extra rotational mass of 80 pounds for all axles. So I'm back to the Big O AT's on my stock aluminum rims and I'll be back to my high MPG mark again...

I did relize they where that small... Wow!

...or my favorite. www.scangauge.com

Only thing I can think of double check you power supply and grounds. If that doesn't work then it might be a good time to give Edge a quick call and ask there techs a few questions...

Do me a favor Ops if you can measure you IAT temps with a live data tool and see if the +40*F offset is different that will tell you a bunch...

Just the fact that it comes and goes with gear change makes me think it going to be transmission related. Being when it kicks down it starts to act out and then shift to high gear and lose the problem. other things to look at is the u-joint or any carrier bearing it might have.

Beggars can't be choosy... Totally understandable...

I had a gent today tell me a secret about the 2001 problem with the key trick we all know that some of the 2001 will read ECM codes and other will not read but display a P1693 code. Well I need some help finding the answer to this secret. Now you guys/gals with 2001 trucks take notice to the criuse light color and also tell me if the P-PCU and P-ECU is display during you key trick...

Like today I was down to 1/8 and just about tripped the light on... I've got the old school draw straw but I can run till the empty mark without problems... Just can't launch hard and quick...

The price of 6 injectors on a 3rd Gen is more than a VP44 pump on a 2nd Gen... The failure point of the CR engine is from poor filter performance and damages the internal valve of the injector that controls injector firing. Typically the 3rd gen get just slightly less MPGs because of the multiple injector firings to make them quiet. 6.7L are worse with the DPF re-gen.

More along the lines of you need 2 million dollars... The first million to pay for all your current bills, debts, loans, and repair everything... Then the second million for taking a vacation away from all the the crap you had to put up with... Now your broke again... Well I know that a if a shop charges you more than 4 hours for that heater core they are pulling you leg... Also heater core is running abot $120 to $130 roughly...

Well any lift pump will protect a VP44 from failing but how often you you want to toss money out replacing the lift pump? Even a stock carter lift pump will work with a big line kit but I was replacing them about twice a year from failure. The only 2 that are standing out in the crowd right now and lasting long times is AirDog and FASS. But they cost considerably more with a lifetime warranty.

Here is my last load of firewood...

Naw... Like this...

I was doing some digging for ISX for Drag formulas and such and ran across this page and had to share with you... http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php#2 Here is what I figured out for my Empty run and my 235/85 R16 tires (Crr .009) http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=7900&WeightUnits=lbs&CRR=.009&Cd=.45&FrontalArea=37&FrontalAreaUnits=ft^2&FuelWh=37953&IceEfficiency=.22&DrivetrainEfficiency=.95&ParasiticOverhead=0ρ=1.164&FromToStep=40-65-1 Then here is my offroad 265/75 R16 tires (Crr of .015) http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=7900&WeightUnits=lbs&CRR=.015&Cd=.45&FrontalArea=37&FrontalAreaUnits=ft^2&FuelWh=37953&IceEfficiency=.22&DrivetrainEfficiency=.95&ParasiticOverhead=0ρ=1.164&FromToStep=40-65-1 Then my truck full loaded with 2 cords of firewood and trailer... http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=13500&WeightUnits=lbs&CRR=.015&Cd=.45&FrontalArea=49&FrontalAreaUnits=ft^2&FuelWh=37953&IceEfficiency=.22&DrivetrainEfficiency=.95&ParasiticOverhead=0ρ=1.164&FromToStep=40-65-1 Then if I just change back to my street tires... http://ecomodder.com/forum/tool-aero-rolling-resistance.php?Weight=13500&WeightUnits=lbs&CRR=.009&Cd=.45&FrontalArea=49&FrontalAreaUnits=ft^2&FuelWh=37953&IceEfficiency=.22&DrivetrainEfficiency=.95&ParasiticOverhead=0ρ=1.164&FromToStep=40-65-1 It goes to show the effect of speed, tire, frontal area, etc all have a huge effect on MPG!