Mopar1973Man

Sure...

The problem is the plugs are $40 bucks or so for the set... Then add freight... Now the resistors the closest store to me is Radio Shack at 70 miles... But they don't stock the resistors I need to I've got to but a huge multi-pack of them for $20 buck and there is only 5 of each resistor in this pack the rest are throw away in the trash!... Then the wire I got to drive 102 miles the other direction to get wire... I'm not sure what a 100 foot roll of 18 AWG go for today... But it not cheap... Now it down to the labor of putting it together and packaging it up to be frieghted out... If I'm lucky I make $10 buck per setup... Last one I did I end up pulling out of my pocket for $20 more... (So I lost on the deal and quit making them!) If I lived in Boise, ID where there is electronics stores everywhere I could build a killer setup... Remember I don't live in a big city... 3 hours of driving and never see a WalMart... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPV0cnu7kdc Part 2 http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPwEaSduHYc Should look like this when done... Bad enough I got to get the time to drive to radio shack and get a new switch for my ECT fooler I crushed mine...(Don't ask!)

Hmmm... Well 172K miles and still going... But youll find doing starter contacts are really easy to do... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/693-Starter-contacts?highlight=starter+contacts

I could... But its going to be around $150 bucks (USD) to build for me... I got to mail order everything in... Even the wire... If you got a 56K ohm resistor you can un-plug the IAT plug and put the resistor in the plug and it will tell you if you got the software or not... As for cutting wires... NOPE! All plug in play... But to give you an idea... http://www.midwestdieselconnection.com/forum/showpost.php?p=51999&postcount=25 From the group over at MidwestDieselConnection.Com

4,5,6 firing and 1,2,3 are dead...

The only truck that do it without switches is the 3rd Gen trucks but it just high idle... With my mod you can select 3 cylinder or 6 cylinder high idle at will regardless of the outside temp. So what I like about mine is during the hot dayz and got the dobbie crashed out in the back seat I flip on the 6 cylinder high idle and the A/C or MAX A/C and it cools down in the truck really quick because even though the fan isn't completely locked up there is still air moving there the cooler and the compressor is now pumping at good pressure to make it seriously cold! Like everyone in the city uses there block heater for the winter. Well if I'm up at my buddy's ranch there is no power. The last power pole is like 5 miles away... So if I'm up helping out all day its nice to walk out fire up the truck trip the high idle and exhaust brake and get full engine temp in under 10 minutes (170*F worth of coolant). So even on cold days if you forget to trip the switch it will still activate the high idle mod needed for the temperature the IAT sensor sees.

I'm also a proud hold of CCW...

Well thats what its all about... Yeah I'm here most times out of ten helping people with there truck problems... But I love showing everyone I'm human and do other thing other than working on engines... Thank you... But there is a huge price to pay to have a place like this you got to give up all the convenance of the big city life...

Yea your right... But that's what I own... (5 speed) I know its a 6 speed thread but so what a extra gear...

BHAF and straight pipe exhaust will make it fairly loud... But now leave the ring in with both and it still can be heard but just not loud...

Starting to show the grit and the grime around the lower side of the gear case now... I'm know I'm looking down the barrel of doing this soon...

With my Trans I've change the fluid every 100K miles with only the Mopar Synthetic that it calls for and so far no problems at all in 172K miles. No 5th nut problems, no shifting problems, etc...

The only problem with Quadzilla is it only high idle... The Dodge Flash is 3 clinder and 6 cylinder both high idle..Combined with a exhaust brake you can create some serious heat quickly for you engine on a cold morning... The software already exist in the ECM but Dodge turned it off. Cummins requested a TSB for nortnern states to prevent engine damage like valve being bent or pushrods being bent... Here is the document.. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

Well sad to say you got a few things to repair... [*]VP44 need replacement. [*]APPS sensor needs replacement. [*]Transmission need repair.

Wood hauling out here is a very common business... I got a guy on the local sherriff's dept that is trying to hook up on a 50 cord wood sale that is $350 bucks a cord but it got to be split and hauled to Coeur D'Alene, ID from Riggins, ID... Hmmm... It might be worth it...

Here is another one... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1523&d=1281495597 The log pile to tthe right is 4 foot lengths and that pile is 1 cord exactly... It measured 8 x 8 x 2 = 128 cubic feet on the trailer... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKzDIK6oUwQ Second half shows the wood on the trailer... My other favorite pics... Any call a Cummins Skidder??? Another great haul on a green spring day... (Nice and Green!)

Check the vendor pile out.. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm DieselAutoPower.com is usually the cheapest...

You know I might have to run down to Kuna and play with your toyz with you...

Nice truck and good repair job too!

That is plumb scary... I would never trust any lift pump to go below the Dodge /Cummins Specs... Then like AH64ID points out my gauge... You want to stay in the green...

Yeap... sad but true... P1688 is a VP44 death code for the electronics...

Yea... You so right...

Yeap it looks stock to me...

Not uncommon to have the fuel gauge showe better than a half tank and run dry on you... Almost happen to me... My fuel pressure gauge bouncing around was the clue that I was starting to run out... So... [*]Put 10 gallons of fuel in the Tank [*]Reprime the system [*]Check your fuel pressure..

Being the slope of the roof and everything but a cord is 4 X 4 X 8 = 128 Cubic feet... Each row is roughly 128 cubic feet as long as I get it stack to the top...