Mopar1973Man

Well I'm shock I figure there would be more voters... Get down to the end though... Come on people get your votes in...

I need to do that now... Need a good washing and another wax job...

Actually the 2 cycle oil sold around here for snowmobiling must make it to at least -40*F. Like my old Artic Cat sitting in the yard it does not mix the oil in the fuel until the combustion chamber. The oil is pump directly from the oil tank to the is 2 tiny nozzles in the intake trac where the oil is mixed with fuel. So the oil has to stay above pour point (solid). So my theory on 2 cycle oil PPD (Pour Point Depressants) is that we all know water freezes at 32*F and we know if you and salt to the water the freeze point falls. But in this case we'll say the 2 cycle oil is like salt water (unknown amount of salt). So if you know you add salt water to the normal water the freeze point is going to be reduced. How much? I don't know... From data sheets for diesel fuel in Idaho the pour point on most diesel fuel around here is like +18*F to about -18*F and the 2 cycle oil from WalMart has a pour point down to -40*F so it has to effect it to some degree...

You can only cram so much air into the engine and then got to get it back out the exhaust. Eventually you get to what know as a choke point where the drive pressure (exhaust) rises faster than the boost pressure (Intake). From what I know the HX35 has a max of 35 PSI and the HY35 is a max of about 30 PSI

Funny part in the last few day our morning temps have fell down to 40-45*F in the morning... (Can you say fall is here!?!?)

Ok... Just lookingh at this a bit closer and thinking about it for a moment you got a radiator and/or thermostat problem. (Doing a bit of assuming...) Now I would start out and look at both side of the radiator and I bet your going to find it all gunked up with oily residue (Cause by the stock crankcase vent) or mud (caused from offroad operation) possibly. The trans can't cool any more than the radiator can so since your slow rolling and not moving air very well the radiator start heating the trans fluid like in your case. So if your radiator looks like this then you not moving air through any of the coolers hence the aux cooler won't do much anyways. So it might be time to look into a bit of inspection. Even mine look like... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1597&d=1282528988 You won't want to come out to Idaho then you could drive up to Seven Devil Summit as a test run. Start at 1,800 feet in Riggins, ID and drive 17 miles up a very steep single lane dirt road for 17 miles till you reach Heavens Gate at 9,000+ feet. Average speed up or down this road is about 10 MPH... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Devils_Mountains

If your in florida or some southern state I would most likely let it slide and just top off with straight coolant... But Idaho I know gets cold so yea its a good idea to re-do it...

I armor-all mine all the time... Looks good after it done but a suggestion if you know you going to be in a dusty environment I highly suggest you don't bother till you done. Reason I say this is I cleaned up my truck and got ready for firewood hauling and BAM! I had a dash of Armor-All mud! :banghead: No fun cleaning that up...

That funny... Taz here has a 1992 Dodge and his fuel shut off solenoid burned up so we took the guts out of it and put the dead shell back on the pump. When we use his truck for firewood hauling we pop the hood and grab the lever and it kill it dead.

I might actually think about opening up the rear of my trans when I do my fluid change... Kind of got me bugged...

Yea that a super old post... But I dump out the old link and pic and got new one in place...

Most likely didn't drain out the block very well it can hold a extra 1.5 to 2 gallons of water if just sitting flat ground. When I drain mine out I either jack up the rear of the truck or back it up a steep bank.

Well from my experience that heater core and A/C evaporator from NAPA isn't bad at all.. They are both about $120 a piece. Oh you did remind me that the you'll need smoe foam weather stripping to re-seal both the heater core and the A/C evaporator units. You could just place the new units in and forget about it but I'm the type that wants 99.9% effieciency from everything I can!

You'll need a heater core and a A/C line removal tool. Rest of it all standard hand tools. As for the Vacuum system you'll be able to see all the vacuum motors once the HVAC box is removed from the truck. You'll be able to use a hand operated vacuum pump to test everything. As for recharging the A/C system I wish your closer Russ I got everything here right now... I got 8 cans of R134a freon, vacuum pump, manifold gauges, and lots of time!

Good time for a upgrade...

Sorry there is very little on the vacuum hose maps for Dodge Cummins trucks... But basically there is very little if anything that uses vacuum. HVAC which is in the passenger side, brake booster (for earlier trucks), and CAD axles for 2001 and eariler trucks... Like my truck (2002) the vacuum is for HVAC and Exhaust brake.

Actually you'll only get about 5 to 5.5 gallons in typically... There is a bit of water that you just can't get out of the block...

Now that's classic! I'm glad ISX got you sorted out so you can get your truck put together quickly!

As for t-stat replacement... I've been changing mine every year at 30K miles at flush time so I've never had a issue with overheating or such. But I've been using a NAPA t-stat without any issue...

I've still got my brand new Dodge OEM Cassette Deck... That didn't last long... I pull it out and stuffed a MP3 player in place of it. All you need to do is pick out a nice stereo for the dash, pick up a bezel trim, and a wiring adapter. so this is what I got now... No amps, no BS just Stereo and MP3's... As for wiring check the Pink wire (+12V Batt) and Red-White (Keyed +12V) if those 2 wires are good then the radio internally is shot...

The other problem that comes up is the fact you increase you drag coeffiency (more face in the wind) hence reduce your MPG's, then with larger tires you increase your rolling resistance (more tread face) and rotational mass (total weight per tire). This all in turn reduced MPG... I'm actually going the other direction look to reduce my height and/or thinking in the future of maybe going down another size in tire. But something to think about... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1995-Change-tires!-235-85-R16-to-265-75-R16?highlight=tire

Killer work! Wow! I always thought the older mechanical pumps where better pumps but now we know the truth! Now I heard of several big player that ditched the mechanical pumps and heading for AD150 or simular pumps for there 12V Cummins to keep the P7100 pump feed during high HP apps.

Best thing I know is to do a good inspection of all the house, sheds, vehicles (even stored)... Just keep the hives removed and that typically enough to reduce the chances of yellow jackets... Trust me after being zapped by baldface hornets I've very aware of the hives and keep them removed from the houses. Oh the spot where a hive was make sure to spray it raid or simular bug spray to make it in unfavorable to rebuild there.

OMG... :banghead: What a video... Some forgot to check his six...

The only problem I see with the coversion so far is the fact he lost his transfer case and no longer has 4WD...