Mopar1973Man

At this point I would take and remove the battery lead from the battery. Using a hacksaw I would cut the bolt out of the terminal though the gap in the lead. Now you can replace the battery terminal bolt. As for keeping the corrosion free is simple I use good ol' engine oil. I take my oil can and give a small oil to each terminal and wipe around. Then very carefully squeeze a few pumps on the tie down bolts and let it run to the bottom. Here is my terminal after 9 years with my factory batteries yet... Take notice the hold down bolts at factory fresh and not all ate up and corroded.

Yea I got to authorize the files for download use... So let me know when you do upload to the site because it doesn't notify me...:banghead:

This applies to the VP44 trucks. I know as the boost pressure rises the timng curve start to retard some. So if you boost rises above 5 PSI you losing timing now. Also more boost means more fuel used. As for the pyrometer more fuel means more heat so keep the heat down and MPG's will naturally rise up. Now how I found this tidbit was playing with a smoke switch and you can phyiscally hear the rattle change or disappear as the boost fooler is switch on (full boost). Then return to normal (0 boost) and rattle returns. Nice part is most of Idaho (in my local area) the highways are in the range of 45-65 MPH. All city streets are 25 MPH. Then all residential areas are typically 15 MPH. Most of the time I set the cruise for 55 MPH and most of the time traffic doesn't mine and they just tag along.

Biggest killer is speed... Just going from 55 to 65 MPH will produce double the load. So first off slow way down and set your cruise at 55-60 MPH if you can safely. Dragging brake shoes and/or pads. A single caliber with a gummy puck will eat over 3-4 MPG off your typical MPG number. Don't let this bite you and buy new calipers or brake parts most of the the time you can clean the parts and reassemble and gain back your MPG number.

I don't think so... Just crossed the 175K mark and still truckin' Mighty Whitey needs to roll more...

Problem no wrecking yards near me... Well there is Riggins but there is nothing there for Dodge's... Next closest good wrecking yard is 180-200 miles away...

I know he's been through a few lift pumps and VP44's but how many of each I'm not sure... I remember not to long ago he bought a NAPA VP44 pump and it didn't last much more that a few thousand miles... (3-5 days) I know he'll correct me if I'm wrong...

Well... I hooked up the manifold gauge shot about 100 PSI in the system fire the compressor for a short while to stir the dye oil around to give me a wet spot that is fresh. I black lighted everywhere on the system and found nothing. So the next step was to look for phyiscal damage. I found some... Well I feel like a horses ... I kept a piece of hardware mesh in found of the radiators for years helping keep the bugs and debris out of the coolers and radiators. On the lower left corner as you face the condenser you can clearly see where the hardware mesh had been rubbing the condenser main tube. So I'm going to break out with JB weld and patch it for now and see if that might of been the cause. I'm still going to pressurize the system again and soap it when it a bit warmer today... But This is what I found so far...

Well gang... I got a call from CajFlynn and he's bragging... well his 2001 Dodge Cummins truck just rolled over the 900,000 mile mark and just to prove it I got him to shoot a picture of of the odometer will his cell phone and send it to me... And here is what he hauls everyday... Oh Yeah these pics got added to the video pile! Added - Signature of CajFlynn...

John your really close to me... Straight pipe exhaust 3"/BHAF/2 Stroke +120HP for Level 5x5 Edge Comp +40 RV275 Injectors Last rolled Dyno was 2007 without the injectors 381/826 & 379/831 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/dyno/dyno%20day.jpg

Hmmm... I got another great forum that is specialize in Tractor and such... www.tractorfarmandfamily.com The owner is a member here LiveOak or (TFF Admin)

Ummm... elshadow I've got 2 Dodge trucks... 2002 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins 1996 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram Then... 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1951 Willy's Jeep

Don't sweat it... That lock will flip at 20 post and automatic upgrade to standard membership... As for the truck is a good candidate for restoring. It mighr be fugly now but its going to be a winner later on! I love the idea of watching someones dream turn to reality. Like my program truck 96 Dodge Ram I'm going to repaint the roof and hood this winter nad put a black boss stripe over the truck just to give it style... So post up your ideas and we'll help you along...

Dude don't even go there... I've got fugly too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram

Awesome job on the crack repair... The dash mat cover it nicely... I've always though og the dash rugs... I always hated how everything glides across the dash and falls on the floor...

I had the same though of just pressurizing the system with compressed air and soaping the system also looking for the funky green dye with black light... I do the black light first before the soap to prevent washing the dye off.

Dude that's just wrong... So were is the pic? or Link?

Yeap I ran the Dyno at 381/826 and 379/831 back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, BHAF and striaght pipe exhaust. But now I've got RV275 injectors and I know I'm eith at or just crossing the 400 HP mark. The only thing you'll find is the stock clutch will begin to slip at the 380-400 HP to the ground mark. So I up grade to South Bend Con OFE single disk clutch and hold tight even hauling 2 cords of firewood up hill. Stay after you fluid changes... Yeah I know the stuff is expensive but it cheap insureance for keeping the transmission happy. Crossing 175K miles and never had a issue with the trans yet... (NV4500) 200K here I come!

I think its more of the fact the low fuel pressure robs the VP44 electroincs of cooling fuel and the electronic get heat stress and begin to act weird and strange. But the P0216 is the prove of it... (Best guess theory...)

Welcome to the site... Glad you joined... The sites theme is more about long life from the engine while still getting a bit more bang for the buck. Yeah stock is boring but there is way of improving your truck with out costing a arm and leg and still get lot of miles out of it... Welcome to the site and bring some pictures in... Lets see your ride!

Ummmm... It should be...

Mine is solely heat related... Only occurs after high pyro runs... It will start to misfire randomly. Once the pyro cools down to 300-350*F miss is gone most times. I'm going to say it going to be injector related more so... But not sure if its pop pressure, design flaw, etc...

Another way to look at blowby... If your blow is so extreme that you loosing large amounts of oil out the breather tube its excessive. If the dipstick is dripping oil its excessive. If the oil cap on the valve cover pop out of your hand while loosen it the blow excessive. I seen this on a 3rd gen... OMG!

I see what Flman getting at... He's talking about hose cheapy $30 kits with a low side gauge hose, can of freon and a can of oil. Being it doesn't cover the high side there is no way to see the amount of expansion the freon has created from heat. Or if the high side switch had failed (exceeding safe pressure levels). Now if the guy had a manifold gauge set he might never of added any freon... (Maybe?)

I feel the love here...