Mopar1973Man

Still the fact remains the white smoke is caused from retarded timing and the timing is solely controlled by the ECM/VP44. now you say 15-16 typically for pressure... But what is your idle pressure and what is you WOT pressure? These 2 number tell more of a story... Unless you got a damaged injector that is hung open. Pop testing would tell you that...

Not that I remember... I heard of this being a problem on the 12V of the sender halves floating up and down... I know the design was changed on the 24V series to a spring load halves so the bottom half was pressed against the bottom of the tank...

Be my guest... Go head a close this on out and start a fresh one...

Thanx ISX... Now there other half of the information on Ratio... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/failure/failure.htm

Hey ISX... The the pic of the gasket hanging on the sender I notice there is a hell of a rub mark where the screws hold the lower half of the sender. Is that loose by chance? You might consider adjusting a putting a bit of JB weld along the lip edge of the metal to help it out. It might not be a bad idea to give it a Kylon tuneup too on the frame make it last longer... (Suggestion)

Ugh... Check for error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Check fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm But white smoke is a sign of retarded timing. I'm going to bet money you going to turn up a P0216 error code and also find that your fuel pressure is below 10 PSI most of the time... (Takin' a guess!)

Bump to top and sticky so people will vote for the tech specialist position time is running out...

Ummm... You need a tailpipe... That passenger side tire is awful black in color and so is the axle. Oh yeah you fuel tank is rather dirty looking...

Congrads for making to the end! This is the tough part for anyone to find a place to live and getting a job. Right now the economy is really hurting and it going to be tough. But keep after it and keep sending those resumes... If you need a reference for you job I'd be more that willing to stand up for ya!

Just watch this...

Like Low Sulfur Diesel and Leaded Gasoline it going to become a thing of the past...

That's a tough one... I want to say try pulling the lift pump lead and seeing if the truck start easy without the lift pump at start time. Possibly a weak diaphragm? Too much cranking pressure?

If you take a pic of any connector you want they will look it up and get you one... They have much more than what the web site shows!

I think ISX and Guesswho suggestions would be the best to tell exactly if the wastegate is working.

Really easy... Go to... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php?cPath=53 Where I get the connectors for my high idle fooler...

Because there is a few problems with FASS DDRP... [*]Doesn't have a lifetime warranty. [*]Doesn't deal with the retrictive plumbing issues. [*]Only put out 45 GPH compared to AirDog, Raptor or Full FASS at 100 to 150 GPH (Stock Carter is only 35 GPH) [*]Still mounted to far from the fuel tank no pump is capable of sucking from from the tank without failure. Bosch requirements was to have at least 70% of the fuel returned to the tank. Hmmm... So the maximum GPH I see is about 22-25 GPH at WOT so with a FASS DDRP you not getting any extra fuel for cooling and lubricanting purpose so the VP44 take it in wear and heat. Typically a good fuel system should only drop 2-3 PSI from idle to WOT... I bet you dropping more than that... The last person I talked to with a FASS DDRP was 18 at idle and dropping below 5 PSI at WOT with stock injectors and no box... Fuel pressure loss points out one thing... You demand volume is greater than the pumps supply volume. Here is what it should be like... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY I typically idle at 17.5 PSI at WOT I might tip 15 PSI... Still got the overflow valve open and flowing plenty of fuel back to the fuel tank keeping the electronics cool and the pump well lubricated with a mixture of diesel and 2 cycle oil...

FASS DDRP is not worth it... Actually you might be fighting a air leak in the system...

I do have a boost elbow is the only reason I can reach that high... But don't want to go past 35 PSI...

There was quite the rave over at bigger forums long ago now its well not as popular at least the way I see it... But Prowelder is right most typically say it shift like a sport car. It will shorten the throw about 2" from neutral.

Yeah I've seen plenty of those nasty crankcase vent slobber pics... - But how's the inside of your radiator look?

Any error codes? How is the battery connection on the passenger side? The PCM uses the ground right from the battery. How the alternator? A few have found that the alternator diode can fail causing noise in the power system which will cause this problem. You can go to most part houses and have you alternator tested on a bench for free but be sure to have the diodes checked! Some suggest adding a ground to the APPS sensor... But I don't suggest it... The fact remains that the truck ran all these years without and now needs wiring mods... Highly unlikely... But I would double check the connectors though... The engine ground for all the sensors and such is behind the starter and requires the starter to be pulled to inspect this ground.

The SGII does have FPR (Fuel PRessure) gauge but it not use on any of the Cummins engine as far as I know... It comes back to the simple thing of does the engine have the sensor? Does the the ECM/PCM have software for the sensor? http://www.scangauge.com/support/CompatibleVehicles.shtml

Easy way to watch the boost gauge... Stock setup will pop the wastegate at about 18-19 and stop building. Even on mine I rarely can tap the 35 pin on my boost gauge but typically I see 34 PSI as the wastegate pops open. In this video I can see 33.5 almost 34 PSI...

Standard old garden hose sprayer... (70 PSI) Now if I turn the pelton generator off I could of had 118 PSI... (Idaho power washer) Good old cheap NAPA Green anti-freeze at about $6 bucks a gallon... As you can see there is absolutely no need for expensive coolants, additives, etc to keeping a cooling system clean and working. It all about doing the coolant change and flushing the system regularly. After 9 years and 173K miles and have a radiator that clean internally using CREEK water and cheap NAPA antifreeze... Yea that water comes from here...

I do that also but with the intercooler and the A/C condenser and the fron bumper there is places you really can't clean too well...