Mopar1973Man

Sound like it would be a good cause of your problems... Keep us posted...

CCD Network is down for sure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Yeah I could feel the love over the phone with ISX while I was doing mine. He was giving me a rash of crap and not being very helpful... But I still manage to figure out how to remove the darn thing...

Yes a snubber works just as good... I tend to suggest the needle valve more so for in dash mechanical gauges because of the sole fact is that with a snubber you can't shut it off if it start leaking. But with a needle valve you can shut it off and continue driving for the day or till you can get it repaired.

Yes. Waterhammer radiates from the VP44 and will deminish over distance of the line but we are talking several feet of line not inches. Like here at my house if I close the ball valve on the irriagtion line to quickly the water hammer pulse runs over 100 feet up hill before it stops. But my example I taking much higher pressure and much more flow. Yes farther from the source of water hammer (VP44) the better for the life of the gauge. More than likely Yes! Any kind of line restriction (size reduction) will cause a choke point and reduce pressure. I'm pretty sure it would... But the only way to find out is to pull the current banjo and measure and try it.

Now what are you going to do? You first with the freight shaker... I need someone to show me how with a little more experience...

Here is the best I can do... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

Yeah I seen a few parallel setups and a few series the series setup will increase the pressure most time will beyond 20 PSI but the parallels were good at delievering good volume at the strongest pumps pressure. Problem... 2 Stock Carter pumps is more expensive that 1 single Raptor 150 GPH pump... Not to mention the Carter pumps typically have a 30 day warranty and the Raptor is lifetime... No it makes no sense to run a parallel setup...

NOT! Those wicked corners I'd never survive!!!

You know they made turbo lag and hand shakers to give the V8's a chance right? I got to admit for a older truck you still held you ground quite well but I notice it was gaining on you most of the till 80 MPH and then the tables changed...

Now that's funny... :lmao2:Old school beat the pants off of new and improved... I bet if he took all the smog, EGR, DPF, and BS off that Ford it might have a chance at beating you...

Since this thread is getting searched for quiet a bit I desided to add it to the sticky pile...

(Shakin' Head) Here is the flawed thinking... Ok... First off the factory requirement from dodge/Cummins is 10 PSI in there factory service manual. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm Second off if you run the revised volume test by Dodge/Cummins with 8 PSI you'll fall the test every time... Then my long story to make you think outside the box. You know the VP44 has 1 inlet for fuel and 2 outlets for return (overflow valve and the injectors). So let say you ar holding 10-12 PSI typically. Driving around there might be enough flow to keep the pump happy with lubing and cooling for the electronics. But now if you like myself that runs the forest road and climb high in the mountain to get firewood Then on the return trip down I'm coast the entire way back to the highway jakin'. So this mean there is nothing going to the injectors while coasting (outlet #1 closed!) and since the fuel pressure is below 14 PSI (outlet #2 is limited if any!) So now where is the fuel going? Nowhere it can do it job of cooling and lubing the pump if there is no flow. My suggested minimum pressure is 14-15 PSI this will insure in all cases the overflow valve remains open flowing fuel through the VP44 keeping lubed and cooled even under complete stress... Below 14 PSI the flow is dependant on the amount of throttle your giving to keep the flow moving. But even Bosch noted that "At least 70% of the fuel should be return to the tank and only 30% of the fuel burned. This is for cooling and lubing purposes!" I can go on about stock pump volumes and such but I'm sure you getting a picture now...

If you go this route with water/meth make sure you don't get too crazy with the methanol it can be rather damaging to the engine... Always mix it in proper ratio.

Well actually the price I paid for mine back in 2002 was $700 so its not too far out... But the system does run on vacuum and works very good... Being I'm still running stock brake pads at 174K miles and still going... I might do brakes at 200K miles... True story...

Yeap... The wastegate is opening early because of the HY35 design with a hard line. So yes your going to need a j-hook to hold it back a bit longer to build boost to keep the EGT's in check.

Ground cable issues do play hell on the electronics... Ummm... Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the truck?

Darn kids... Old school 12V's... No I just didn't rotate the pics... But it cool looking huh?

Actually it good for 38-40 PSI according to Edge... Beyond that the MAP sensor is topped out and won't go any farther... So it up to you to supply a 0-60 PSI or a 0-100 PSI at that point... I'm currently using a 0-35 PSI Dipricol gauge. But I doubt you building for racing though... The other problem is digital displays update very slowly so as for seeing a sudden change of values a digital display is not going to do it. But a mechanical gauge will show turbo bark very clearly...

Radiator is easy to pull out... (Manual Trans) [*]Drain the coolant [*]Pull the upper and lower hoses [*]Remove the coolant bottom (lift upwards) [*]Remove the wiper fluid bottle (Disconnect the hose, electrical, and the sensor then using a screwdriver to release the bottle from the shroud. CAREFULLY!) [*]4 10mm bolts & 2 clips holding the shroud slide it on the fan. [*]2 10mm bolts holding the radiator. (Lift!) * Auto trans will have cooler lines on the tank header to remove before. This should be done after the shroud is remove to give more access. * No intercooler removal required! Pics back here.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2241-Radiator-cleaning

Correct you need more fuel to drive the turbo more... As for the j-hook yes you going to need that to exceed the stock limts on the wastegate. As for the Edge modules... Edge Juice gets its reading from the stock MAP sensor. When you hook up the MAP sensor connectors its got connection at that point for boost fooling, MAP sensor reading etc. As for a mechanical gauge there is a 3/4" pipe plug just forward from the MAP sensor to tap for boost pressure...

Yeah... Now for the 24V valve train is a bit different... The oil wells up at the pivot point and floods down to the tip of the rocker arm run down the bridge to the valves.

Well if your pyro is in the exhaust manifold (4,5,6) you know your going to be seeing close to the actual number but I'm sure the cylinder temps are higher who much I'm not sure... You don't want to look at my pyrometer... I can touch the 1,400*F rather easy...

:lmao2:No kidding but... You know the videos are so helpful to the newbies that when they are seen on YouTube or on the site it usual just what they are looking for...

Geez... I'm heading down the road to 200K really quick... (174K @ 21,750 miles a year) Mom's 96 Dodge... (143K @ 10,214 miles per year)