Mopar1973Man

That's a tough one... I want to say try pulling the lift pump lead and seeing if the truck start easy without the lift pump at start time. Possibly a weak diaphragm? Too much cranking pressure?

If you take a pic of any connector you want they will look it up and get you one... They have much more than what the web site shows!

I think ISX and Guesswho suggestions would be the best to tell exactly if the wastegate is working.

Really easy... Go to... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/index.php?cPath=53 Where I get the connectors for my high idle fooler...

Because there is a few problems with FASS DDRP... [*]Doesn't have a lifetime warranty. [*]Doesn't deal with the retrictive plumbing issues. [*]Only put out 45 GPH compared to AirDog, Raptor or Full FASS at 100 to 150 GPH (Stock Carter is only 35 GPH) [*]Still mounted to far from the fuel tank no pump is capable of sucking from from the tank without failure. Bosch requirements was to have at least 70% of the fuel returned to the tank. Hmmm... So the maximum GPH I see is about 22-25 GPH at WOT so with a FASS DDRP you not getting any extra fuel for cooling and lubricanting purpose so the VP44 take it in wear and heat. Typically a good fuel system should only drop 2-3 PSI from idle to WOT... I bet you dropping more than that... The last person I talked to with a FASS DDRP was 18 at idle and dropping below 5 PSI at WOT with stock injectors and no box... Fuel pressure loss points out one thing... You demand volume is greater than the pumps supply volume. Here is what it should be like... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRoZlLVVxiY I typically idle at 17.5 PSI at WOT I might tip 15 PSI... Still got the overflow valve open and flowing plenty of fuel back to the fuel tank keeping the electronics cool and the pump well lubricated with a mixture of diesel and 2 cycle oil...

FASS DDRP is not worth it... Actually you might be fighting a air leak in the system...

I do have a boost elbow is the only reason I can reach that high... But don't want to go past 35 PSI...

There was quite the rave over at bigger forums long ago now its well not as popular at least the way I see it... But Prowelder is right most typically say it shift like a sport car. It will shorten the throw about 2" from neutral.

Yeah I've seen plenty of those nasty crankcase vent slobber pics... - But how's the inside of your radiator look?

Any error codes? How is the battery connection on the passenger side? The PCM uses the ground right from the battery. How the alternator? A few have found that the alternator diode can fail causing noise in the power system which will cause this problem. You can go to most part houses and have you alternator tested on a bench for free but be sure to have the diodes checked! Some suggest adding a ground to the APPS sensor... But I don't suggest it... The fact remains that the truck ran all these years without and now needs wiring mods... Highly unlikely... But I would double check the connectors though... The engine ground for all the sensors and such is behind the starter and requires the starter to be pulled to inspect this ground.

The SGII does have FPR (Fuel PRessure) gauge but it not use on any of the Cummins engine as far as I know... It comes back to the simple thing of does the engine have the sensor? Does the the ECM/PCM have software for the sensor? http://www.scangauge.com/support/CompatibleVehicles.shtml

Easy way to watch the boost gauge... Stock setup will pop the wastegate at about 18-19 and stop building. Even on mine I rarely can tap the 35 pin on my boost gauge but typically I see 34 PSI as the wastegate pops open. In this video I can see 33.5 almost 34 PSI...

Standard old garden hose sprayer... (70 PSI) Now if I turn the pelton generator off I could of had 118 PSI... (Idaho power washer) Good old cheap NAPA Green anti-freeze at about $6 bucks a gallon... As you can see there is absolutely no need for expensive coolants, additives, etc to keeping a cooling system clean and working. It all about doing the coolant change and flushing the system regularly. After 9 years and 173K miles and have a radiator that clean internally using CREEK water and cheap NAPA antifreeze... Yea that water comes from here...

I do that also but with the intercooler and the A/C condenser and the fron bumper there is places you really can't clean too well...

Well gang... I figure I better get the coolant change before winter. So I desided to pull the radiator and inspect it and was surprised to find the face plugged with mud and dirt... Not greasy grime like stock crankcase vents but just mud on the lower part... So I gave everything a good cleaning... Close up... The radiator... Flushing the block... Appearance of the block currently at 173K The intercooler face. Appearance of the block at 100K... Inside the radiator... Flushing...

Typical flow restrictions will show up as a huge fall in fuel pressure from idle to WOT... If system is in good shape there should be only like 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT..

Sorry... I had to mention it because the local forestry office (USFS) just got a few urea burners too... When I was hanging around local Chevron station one of the guys brought me a bottle of Urea and ask what that was... I Look it over sure enough its in a gallon jug price wrote on the bottle at $11.25 a gallon!!! I ask the owner about this and he can't get it any cheaper currently... As for Urea and sources locally I've only seen the one place... As for knowledge on it your right... I seen several article about it roughly the same price as diesel per gallon... But not here in Riggins, ID

Be aware of the urea that is out on the market in some place liek here in Riggins, ID its really expensive like $12 bucks a gallon...

So its a 24V thing... I did a coolant flush today and found lower part of both the radiator and intercooler were packed with mud. so after getting it all said and done I'm now down to +35*F offset now... Now bad to lose 5 degrees of manifold temp.

Fuel gauge sender failing? Mine failed at a 1/2 tank and the only clue that gave me for it was the fuel pressure going up and down like a yoyo.

3rd Gen is in the same place... So that explains both...12V and CR engines why they have lower IAT temps....

Only 10% of todays vehicle have a fuel pressure sender... The only things that Ultra Gauge can report is what is already presently hooked up to the ECM/PCM of the truck there is no way to add a fuel pressure sender to the ECM.

Now that possible... But from what little I can see from the bottom or cramming my head in from the drivers side it looked to be a standard coolant freeze plug and being there is a coolant passage just forward of the IAT I gather that would be too... I'll do some more digging on this...

Yes you can send data to the ECM or PCM and get a response from the computer. Take a look at some of the other gauges... http://www.scangauge.com/support/pdfs/XGAUGE.pdf Coding manual... http://www.scangauge.com/support/pdfs/XGaugeCoding.pdf Then I just got the Chrysler Mode 6 pages for all the gasser vehicles from 96 to 09... Sad part is I'm still short the Cummins stuff yet...

I might have to give that a whirl... Dang you ISX you always give me a new challenge... Actually a request for mounting in up front some how and look at the front suspension on a 4WD...