Mopar1973Man

Far easier way to do it... Open the hood and open the water drain on the fuel filter and get a sample... As for dipping the actual tank... So after you drop below the 1/2 mark there is no fill in the filler neck and since the rollover valve prevents access to the fuel any deeper you'll have to get a sample from the fuel filter housing.

With the tap done right you should see 12V at the lead with the key ON.

Later on today I grab a video of my Jacobs brake operation and post it up...

Comparing this to... This... Holy cow dude! You managed to fit a hell of a lot of stuff in that van not to meantion the fact you got it all arranged neatly and organized...

So that leads me to believe that you tap was poor to weak all a long and you never got to really see the difference. As for the Edge products none of them can or will re-program the ECM and/or PCM. Then boxes modify the fuel signal to gain the power not reprogram the module.

I love the dealer con game... Yes they do sell the full module for that high price but you can also get just the fuel sender too... Most don't want to tell you that.. As for the drawstraw system depending on model you pick you can out right replace the entire pickup assembly. Like My AirDog came with the old school version.

Only suggestion I can give is check body shops or the dealer...

installed following Pureflow's instructions You might go back to the instruction and check but there is a suggestion of hooking up to the alternator for keeping the connections from attacked from acid I just modified it some in location. i like that idea Like I said just modified a bit... have you used a voltmeter to make sure that is a good ground? Yeap and so far so good... i had mounted my relay, but the metal clip broke off! You might consider replacement of the relay to get it to mount again... The cheap relays I use for my fog lamp tend to last oh about 1-2 year and then are rusted solid because of the fact the always flipped terminal side up and start capture moisture... Hence the problem...

Well at least on my Edge Comp it reverts back to level 1 (40 HP) without the wire tap regardless of level set on the box. Level 1 is basically max timing and fuel that the ECM can deliever without signal modification. (without wire tap). Main level (Wire tap required for all red levels) 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevel 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost. 4. Some Extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost. 5. Full Fuel at 0 PSI of boost.

Yeah but just to ship a small item cost like $15 to $20 bucks... For another $20 to $25 I might as well make a shopping trip out of it and pickup more supplies for the shop and property...

Hmmm... On my Jacobs Brake the arm is on a heavy spring and takes a lot of force to even move. But I would check the source vacuum at the valve and after the valve to see if the valve is directing vacuum properly to the brake. Are your vents working properly in the cab? (A/C, vents, floor, def)

Ok... There is only 2 reason for a dead pedal. [*]APPS sensor failure - P0121, P0122 or P0123 error code is present. [*]VP44 failure - Might be P0216, P1688, P1689, P0251, P0252, P0253 error codes present but with a VP44 failed its not uncommon to see a VP44 fail without error codes. So get a scan tool and check for error codes. (Key trick only work on 2000+ model years)

Something like... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-I-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/dsi.htm Or for the stock intank pump... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/DrawStraw-V-HiFlow-p/dsv.htm Or the one I got now... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/dsii.htm

Simple add it to your fuel for fuel lubricant. You need 128:1 ratio or 1 oz of oil for 1 gallon of fuel. So if you stop and get 15 gallons of fuel you add 15 ozs of oil.

Empty fuel tank is easy to pull out and can be done by a single person in just about 1 hour to pull down fix the gauge sender and mount again. I sat on the floor with a beer in one hand and a camera in the other and my buddy got the tank in by himself...

From a long time ago when my lift pump was dieing (Stock carter) at 8 PSI it looked like the flow of the AirDog with the starter bump (the tiny trickle). I'll see if I can produce a lower pressure and do it again... As for the the test it was gallons per hour flow rating...

Yeap... The boot is going to be big but the clamp will pull down on it... I think the 3" boot is too small... Yes you could cap the turbo and pressurize the system through that plug and test in the same fashion.

Ahhh... I thought you had a issue possibly... But thanks for the link I'll grab of copy of that and add it to the pile...

Well... I could increase the fuel pressure temporarily but using a pair of vise grips on the return line of the AirDog. Now I don't mean crimp it off completely but I mean to limit its return to increase even more fuel pressure into the VP44 for a test run say go up to 20 PSI and 25 PSI... But I think what is occuring that the internal vane pump is limiting the flow through the pump and there isn't enough volume leaking through to build to 14 PSI to open the overflow valve to flow. So in theory incresing the inlet pressure should get to a point of opening. (Only in theory)

Ok... Here is a video to show the fuel return rate for a VP44 at 17 PSI. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU I love the funky green/blue color of my fuel... I heard rumors about a major pump builder planing on building a lift pump timer to keep the lift pump running after the engine is shutdown to cool the VP44. Well after doing the video I hardly doubt the idea will hold up being there is very little volume of fuel leaking though the overflow valve.

Dang that is nice... Now I got to get down to Boise, ID to buy some... Grrrr! (360 mile round trip!)

I love the comment from the guy... "Gotta pull the cab to work on anything!" At least a Dodge doesn't require that...

Thanks GuessWho wonderful and simple video showing how to resolve the minor issue! Suggestion to both though... Don't mount your AirDog leads to the battery this is where all the acid is and it ruins wiring quickly... Here is my setup... Positive connect off the stud for the alternator fuse but on the batter lead side (red). Ground hook up. Yes thats plastic but the bolt pass into the steel so far no problems. AirDog Relay and fuse together... If you look close it shares the ground screw...

No... I'm sorry I don't have one... What are you aiming to do? I'm more than willing to dig around on the internet for information for you...

Now that's rather trick looking...