Mopar1973Man

I don't see why that won't work... The only thing you going to have to be careful of is the debris piling up on the top side and possibly jamming the fan or plugging the face of the cooler. You might make it a part of your monthly inspection.

Wow! That good... I was just talking about that to MoparMom about how we use to do the same thing with my 1976 Dodge motorhome. We use to use it to go shopping and then allow us to camp out of it. Then it would allow us to stay in Boise, ID longer to get shopping done. So after you figure out the fuel and then deduct the hotel, food, etc it balanced out to some degree. I'm glad to see you out and still about Russ...

Lot of places can but you might see if the capable of doing a doide test as well. Some of your stall issue might be a shorted diode and AC wave form leaking though. (Crazy ideas)

Wow! That pretty... I like the hanging tree that kind of wicked at first look going huh??? Really pretty area wow!

You need a in cab fuel pressure gauge... You'll love to see the pressure as you drive... Trust me...

Now that's funny!

I admit I'm close to that with the Edge on 5x5... Step 1 Step 2 I killed the smoke switch and no longer use it. I'm on step 3 of recovery I turned down the fuel to help ease the launch smoke and reduce smoking... Now catch up guys...

Or you got a suction air leak and as the air over comes the Raptor pump its starts to whine loud. Double check the fuel system by pressurizing (1-2 PSI) the fuel tank and have a buddy look for wet spots.

You got my attention... :drool:Mom's 96 needs a bit of attention on the bumpers. They are funky and plastic needs help... So I'm very curious how you fastened all the plastic back on...

Yeah its very simular to the electric versions... As demand volume increases (WOT) supply volume is restricted (plugged filter or weak lift pump) you'll start to see the pressure fall at heavy demands this is pointing to supply volume being weaker than demand volume. So now if you insure your lift pump is supplying good volume the pressure should keep up under load...

Good Gawd...

Actually sorry to say most of it disappeared on the internet with the man the knew how...

Edge and Quadzilla are both know for this issue... That people will spend ~$100 for a new MAP sensor and put it in and still have the code come to find out the box is causing it the boost fooler circuit and shorted to ground or simular causing the P0237 low volt error. So after disconnecting the box the problem leaves you know the box is the problem. But now in you case the error code is gone? It takes 40 warm up cycles to clear a error code by itself so the problem been gone for some time then...

According the Dodge FSM the starters require 400-750 Amps... So 400 on a warm summer day with cold engine... Or 750 on a super cold winter morning... Brrr! --- Update to the previous post... Good Gawd! 4,000 CCA??? Can you say arc welder???

Now also remember the batteries are wiried in parallel so the amperage doubles so a 550 CCA becomes 1100 CCA batteries! Typically the design is to double the amount of CCA on the batteries over the load of the starter. So if the starter requires roughly 300-600 amps to start cold then you'll need at least 600-1,200 CCA worth of batteries. The only time the batteries really get beat is cold winter mornings with thick oil and grid heaters pulling huge amount of amps.

Just for testing pupose.. Pull the the Qaudzilla box off temporarily and then run you day again and see if the code returns. If so then the MAP sensor is to blame.

I can easy run 5x5 and control smoke without thinking but put my foot into it yeah I can roll a good cloud. But I ran 5x5 for over 2 years and was able to control 90% of my smoke and learn how to drive with it. But now with your turbo and injector combo I don't know how much boost it takes for you to clear it up. Like me at 10 PSI I'm good and clean 5x3 is prefect but since version 7.0 (I think) has the level bug I set level 4 to 4x3 as well. Then 3x4 since the reduced fuel there isn't enough to roll a good cloud. Then both 1 ans 2 are set to 1x5 and 2x5.

Basically if you charge the batteries up separately overnight and then let them sit all day it should be 12.6 Volts at a full charge and holding. But as a battery ages the lead turns to sulfate lead and piles up in the bottom of the cells and starts to short out the plates and bleed the battery down. But yes load testing is the best way to test a battery. Like with my house batteries when they started to fall I would charge them up and disconnect the solar and hydro generators and then watch the voltage fall... Also was noticing the 1 failed battery would be hotter in temp compared to the others (internally shorted).

ISX is right there is a battery temp sensor on the driver side battery so as the battery temp rises the charging voltage falls to prevent gassing the batteries during charging. But as the battery gets colder it will add more charging voltage since cold batteries do accept a charging voltage as well cold. So as far as I understand it still stands at 13.5 (Summer lowest voltage) and 14.8 (Winter highest voltage).

Actually AH64ID the oil passes from the outside to the inside of the filter. So no it won't actually do that.. It would attract the metal to the side of the can and then the non-ferrous metals, and debris would stick to the media. So its completely safe to use a magnet. Now on the Frantz Filter its backwards... It goes from the inside to the outside. So in that case you would put the magnet in the center stem. But i'm not to worried being that Frantz filters down to 1/2 micron... Pretty small... But the magnet in the drain plug or filter would still be a awesome idea...

Yeah I can say that too Flman... I can jump in Mom's 96 Dodge A/T and drop it Drive and floor it too...

That's cool! It truely sad up here the local schools have shutdown the shop classes completely so the only thing the local kids know how to do is play basketball or football... Most of the kids blow up their car or truck and look for another because they don't have a clue on how to maintain or fix what they got... But I'm glad to see AH64ID you got your kids involved in taking care of things. Teach them well!

He done a hell of a job of picking the pump apart and trying to explain how things work...

What it makes me do is consider winter time and how the fuel reacts to the cold as well as if there is water in the fuel (rare to never for me). But it still makes me think and wonder a bit more... Thanks everyone!

Good rule of thumb buy your fuel from a high volume supplier... If you have to ask the owner buty ask how often he gets fuel and how much... If you buy from high volume source the chances of getting a poor tank of fuel would be extremely rare. Like a Mom & Pop place right down the road from me they have a 500 gallon tank above ground and rarely see a delievery truck around... Then the tank is out in the weather... Then the pump are old mechanical pumps... Then the filters are rarely changed and poor filters are used... Yeah this is a place you don't buy diesel for your truck... I might buy a 5 gallon can for my shop heater...