Mopar1973Man

Most likely didn't drain out the block very well it can hold a extra 1.5 to 2 gallons of water if just sitting flat ground. When I drain mine out I either jack up the rear of the truck or back it up a steep bank.

Well from my experience that heater core and A/C evaporator from NAPA isn't bad at all.. They are both about $120 a piece. Oh you did remind me that the you'll need smoe foam weather stripping to re-seal both the heater core and the A/C evaporator units. You could just place the new units in and forget about it but I'm the type that wants 99.9% effieciency from everything I can!

You'll need a heater core and a A/C line removal tool. Rest of it all standard hand tools. As for the Vacuum system you'll be able to see all the vacuum motors once the HVAC box is removed from the truck. You'll be able to use a hand operated vacuum pump to test everything. As for recharging the A/C system I wish your closer Russ I got everything here right now... I got 8 cans of R134a freon, vacuum pump, manifold gauges, and lots of time!

Good time for a upgrade...

Sorry there is very little on the vacuum hose maps for Dodge Cummins trucks... But basically there is very little if anything that uses vacuum. HVAC which is in the passenger side, brake booster (for earlier trucks), and CAD axles for 2001 and eariler trucks... Like my truck (2002) the vacuum is for HVAC and Exhaust brake.

Actually you'll only get about 5 to 5.5 gallons in typically... There is a bit of water that you just can't get out of the block...

Now that's classic! I'm glad ISX got you sorted out so you can get your truck put together quickly!

As for t-stat replacement... I've been changing mine every year at 30K miles at flush time so I've never had a issue with overheating or such. But I've been using a NAPA t-stat without any issue...

I've still got my brand new Dodge OEM Cassette Deck... That didn't last long... I pull it out and stuffed a MP3 player in place of it. All you need to do is pick out a nice stereo for the dash, pick up a bezel trim, and a wiring adapter. so this is what I got now... No amps, no BS just Stereo and MP3's... As for wiring check the Pink wire (+12V Batt) and Red-White (Keyed +12V) if those 2 wires are good then the radio internally is shot...

The other problem that comes up is the fact you increase you drag coeffiency (more face in the wind) hence reduce your MPG's, then with larger tires you increase your rolling resistance (more tread face) and rotational mass (total weight per tire). This all in turn reduced MPG... I'm actually going the other direction look to reduce my height and/or thinking in the future of maybe going down another size in tire. But something to think about... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1995-Change-tires!-235-85-R16-to-265-75-R16?highlight=tire

Killer work! Wow! I always thought the older mechanical pumps where better pumps but now we know the truth! Now I heard of several big player that ditched the mechanical pumps and heading for AD150 or simular pumps for there 12V Cummins to keep the P7100 pump feed during high HP apps.

Best thing I know is to do a good inspection of all the house, sheds, vehicles (even stored)... Just keep the hives removed and that typically enough to reduce the chances of yellow jackets... Trust me after being zapped by baldface hornets I've very aware of the hives and keep them removed from the houses. Oh the spot where a hive was make sure to spray it raid or simular bug spray to make it in unfavorable to rebuild there.

OMG... :banghead: What a video... Some forgot to check his six...

The only problem I see with the coversion so far is the fact he lost his transfer case and no longer has 4WD...

Hmmm. The only reason I know that a most shop have problem accessing the ABS module is the fact that when mine gave up and tossed the light I had two shop try and neither one could access the CAB module and verify it. The 3rd one was a Dodge dealer and the broke out the DRBIII tool and got it first shot. Thankful it wasn't my dime for all this... More than likely the cruise switches in the wheel are sticky or shorted? WARNING: Before doing any work on the steering wheel or clockspring disconnect the batteries for at least 10-15 minutes... This will disable the AirBag's and keep it from going off on you.

Typically in my truck Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors hauling 2 cords of firewood I vary from 193*F to 197*F. You might read my thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2241-Radiator-cleaning...

The only thing I know of that can test wheel speed sensors is a Dodge DRBIII scantool... But a simple way to figure it out... [*]If the speedometer is NOT working correctly the rear sensor is to blame. [*]If the speedometer is working then the front 2 sensor should be changed as a set. You'll find if you replace 1 front sensor and not the other the problem might persist. Reason being the other sensor is most likely wore out too so the new sensor is showing a different value from the good old one hence ABS still throws a error. Been down this road... CAB unit likes to see only matching speeds from all 3 sensors when there is a variation from the group the the BRAKE and ABS light is thrown.

It is a great looking truck... Mine once looked like that long ago...

Another way to measure it is voltage drop... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm Anything over 0.2 volts is not a good connection.

4 PSI... That's way too low... Once you drop below the 10 PSI mark you lost your cooling and lubrication for the VP44. Something to consider back in my days of running stock pump they do keep up with demands. I nevery dropped below 10 PSI with stock pump and stock plumbing at WOT all the way to 85 MPH...

... Or maybe a shot to find one here... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/

Double check the relay in the PDC box it might have a bad contact and if you swap with a like the horn it might fix the problem. Just means that you need to replace the relay...

Pics? I need to get a new set for my truck soon the stock floor mats are well rather wore out and tattered...

Hmmmm... I would contact a local tire shop and see what they got in that size but in a Load Range D or E. That would allow you to increase the tire pressure and gain back the stability of the trailer. I know what your talking about... My little homebrew trailer has 31 x 10.50 R15 Load Range C the trailer is really sloppy and rocky when load with a cord a firewood. (~2,000 pound). Next set of tires I'm going to see about getting at least a Load Range D...

Something just doesn't strike me as right... [*]Is the low pressure fuel system primed at the entrance of the VP44? [*]Is there enough flow and pressure from the low side? Then typically you just crack 1,3, and 4 and crank till you see fuel spray or it attempts to start tighten the lines and start the engine... [*]Is the VP44 getting good +12V at the socket? (Controlled by the fuel pump relay) [*]Are you sure the ground is good behind the starter? The only thing I can thing of that might go wrong with the pump is... [*]Did you use the new key that came with the pump? [*]Is the arrow on the key pointing towards the pump? [*]Is the key number the same as on the pump?