Mopar1973Man

Hit the vendor form and post it up I'm sure a vendor will come and answer... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forumdisplay.php/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers

Error codes? Fuel pressure? Random idle up and down is very conserning... It points towards a bad ECM but I would like to get more clues that could point the finger at it.

So of course if the cetane to drop too low <40 cetane the burnability of the fuel would be so poor that emmission would increase rapidily. But of course if you drive the cetane upwards to 55 then the fuel would burn up completely before the end of the power stroke. So once again there is a balance ot the cetane mystery. Here is the best way to look octane to cetane. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1663&d=1283554927

Nope... P0216 is a timing issue because the timing cam assembly is total wore out and no longer can time the pump roperly. This is cause by low fuel pressure, excessive wear internal, etc... Usually the the cheap thing that saves a pump from showing this is a fuel pressure gauge if the pressure is below 10 PSI you take a huge risk for P0216 code...

Now another thing that boh of you are forgetting about is the EPA requirements... Cetane and fuel specs are designed to meet EPA requirement regardless of BTU content, cetane, etc.. So if Cummins show a requirement for >45 Cetane fuel this is because its has to deal with EPA emissions. It has nothing to do with net power. So now if you could scientifically test fuels across the board and try different thing without the EPA requirements I bet you'll find a way different story to be told...

Well Gang! I got to meet 2 of the members from the site... AH64ID and David (Unknown username)... Since I was heading toward Boise Airport and both members happen to be close by with a few phone calls on the cell phone I got a shot at meet both of then for a short time and at least shakehand with them both... I wanted to say thanks to both of you for making a little time to say "Hi!" and at least put a face to a name... Here soon I'll make a bit more time and we'll hook up and spend some time doing something maybe a wrench party...

Lalalalala... So you yanked everything out and dumped it in the bed of your truck... (Batteries, coolant bottle, wiper washer, fan shroud, fan, etc) Then missing a heater shield for the BHAF... I'll surprise ya...

Don't start with me... - -

Feul grade hose is a whole different rubber from coolant grade.. So what size are you looking for 3/8" or 1/2" hose? This should cover you... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/category-s/264.htm

See I told ya...

Well I got to admit that was a bold move to pull the housing... But now you need to break out your Mother's Polish and do that turbo inside and out... Remember Chrome makes it go faster...

Yeap I agree... So 1 oz of oil would burner loner producing more BTU's (lower cetane) compared to 1 oz of gasoline which burns quickly producing less BTU's (high cetane) The only time I see high cetane being a real need is for racing applications where the RPM's are 4K and the piston speed is so fast that the fuel needs to burn fast enough to keep pushing at a high rev application. But for typical street use I don't see a need for above 45 Cetane.

Look at the tank vent... I've had this issue with a Chevy Diesel fire truck what I found was the vent hose had a sag in it and the fuel would pool so hence the vent was plugged so as filed the tank it would displace the air and blow it on your leg... Well after ziptie and redoing the vent hose never had a problem.

That also struck me as odd... That a old school 12V fuel system was good enough for bigger horsepower but even with the restrictions and banjo bolts etc it was fine... But on a 24V it was so bad most had ditch the stock fuel system and go big line kits... Really interesting... (Hmmm)

Man you just the the youtube junky now... But I got to admit its a awesome write up on tracking air leak points and dealing with them. Hmmmm... I think they make a big line kit for the 12V p-pump... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/12vfs.htm I have no idea what it even looks like...

Dang... We got to get together and goof off together some time...

Well I can give this info too... When I pull the manifold and discharged the high side high on the manifold the oil was clean and only had a slight tint of green too it (Dye pack).

That's the odd part... Typically you would see the low side go down to 35 PSI or so and the high side rise up to the 250 mark or so... But to get both jumping up and down together its like the valves in the compressor is blowing and sucking in both sides...

I think you blew up the mic on the camera...

But like with any additive store bought or homebrew if used wrong they all will create smog or smoke of some kind. Like I know if I add too much 2 cycle oil 100:1 (or lower ratio) I see a tint of grey tint to the exhaust smoke but if you lighten the dose and keep up above 128:1 ratio it seem fine... Now like with Power Service (back in the day) I use to guess at the amount. Well one time I ran a half a bottle just to see if there was improvement or anything. Well even for a stock truck it would smoke slightly. So I can see it being part of the solution but not the full answer... The rest of the answer lies in the hands of the consumer/owner of the vehicle to use said products properly.

This thread is for Flman more so.. But all help is welcomed! But I just had a customer show up with a cycling A/C compressor showing the signs of low freon but got my manifold hook up and... (Here's where its gets weird!) The low side is cycling at 100-120 PSI rising at the same time with the high side at 100-120 PSI. So as the clutch locks it rises together to 120 and cuts out. I just want to verify I'm looking at a dead compressor.

Well it seem you got it Wild & Free you got the Tech specialist position on the site! Congrads...

It was a good rant...

Remember don't over do the stealth plate screw if so it will crack the circuit board its touching distroying the VP44... So becareful about the set screw...

From what I understand that if you don't allow them to check using any means possible they can site you on the spot for $1,000 fine. As for blue fuel its just as illegal as red according to the laws in some states...