Mopar1973Man

Actually sorry to say most of it disappeared on the internet with the man the knew how...

Edge and Quadzilla are both know for this issue... That people will spend ~$100 for a new MAP sensor and put it in and still have the code come to find out the box is causing it the boost fooler circuit and shorted to ground or simular causing the P0237 low volt error. So after disconnecting the box the problem leaves you know the box is the problem. But now in you case the error code is gone? It takes 40 warm up cycles to clear a error code by itself so the problem been gone for some time then...

According the Dodge FSM the starters require 400-750 Amps... So 400 on a warm summer day with cold engine... Or 750 on a super cold winter morning... Brrr! --- Update to the previous post... Good Gawd! 4,000 CCA??? Can you say arc welder???

Now also remember the batteries are wiried in parallel so the amperage doubles so a 550 CCA becomes 1100 CCA batteries! Typically the design is to double the amount of CCA on the batteries over the load of the starter. So if the starter requires roughly 300-600 amps to start cold then you'll need at least 600-1,200 CCA worth of batteries. The only time the batteries really get beat is cold winter mornings with thick oil and grid heaters pulling huge amount of amps.

Just for testing pupose.. Pull the the Qaudzilla box off temporarily and then run you day again and see if the code returns. If so then the MAP sensor is to blame.

I can easy run 5x5 and control smoke without thinking but put my foot into it yeah I can roll a good cloud. But I ran 5x5 for over 2 years and was able to control 90% of my smoke and learn how to drive with it. But now with your turbo and injector combo I don't know how much boost it takes for you to clear it up. Like me at 10 PSI I'm good and clean 5x3 is prefect but since version 7.0 (I think) has the level bug I set level 4 to 4x3 as well. Then 3x4 since the reduced fuel there isn't enough to roll a good cloud. Then both 1 ans 2 are set to 1x5 and 2x5.

Basically if you charge the batteries up separately overnight and then let them sit all day it should be 12.6 Volts at a full charge and holding. But as a battery ages the lead turns to sulfate lead and piles up in the bottom of the cells and starts to short out the plates and bleed the battery down. But yes load testing is the best way to test a battery. Like with my house batteries when they started to fall I would charge them up and disconnect the solar and hydro generators and then watch the voltage fall... Also was noticing the 1 failed battery would be hotter in temp compared to the others (internally shorted).

ISX is right there is a battery temp sensor on the driver side battery so as the battery temp rises the charging voltage falls to prevent gassing the batteries during charging. But as the battery gets colder it will add more charging voltage since cold batteries do accept a charging voltage as well cold. So as far as I understand it still stands at 13.5 (Summer lowest voltage) and 14.8 (Winter highest voltage).

Actually AH64ID the oil passes from the outside to the inside of the filter. So no it won't actually do that.. It would attract the metal to the side of the can and then the non-ferrous metals, and debris would stick to the media. So its completely safe to use a magnet. Now on the Frantz Filter its backwards... It goes from the inside to the outside. So in that case you would put the magnet in the center stem. But i'm not to worried being that Frantz filters down to 1/2 micron... Pretty small... But the magnet in the drain plug or filter would still be a awesome idea...

Yeah I can say that too Flman... I can jump in Mom's 96 Dodge A/T and drop it Drive and floor it too...

That's cool! It truely sad up here the local schools have shutdown the shop classes completely so the only thing the local kids know how to do is play basketball or football... Most of the kids blow up their car or truck and look for another because they don't have a clue on how to maintain or fix what they got... But I'm glad to see AH64ID you got your kids involved in taking care of things. Teach them well!

He done a hell of a job of picking the pump apart and trying to explain how things work...

What it makes me do is consider winter time and how the fuel reacts to the cold as well as if there is water in the fuel (rare to never for me). But it still makes me think and wonder a bit more... Thanks everyone!

Good rule of thumb buy your fuel from a high volume supplier... If you have to ask the owner buty ask how often he gets fuel and how much... If you buy from high volume source the chances of getting a poor tank of fuel would be extremely rare. Like a Mom & Pop place right down the road from me they have a 500 gallon tank above ground and rarely see a delievery truck around... Then the tank is out in the weather... Then the pump are old mechanical pumps... Then the filters are rarely changed and poor filters are used... Yeah this is a place you don't buy diesel for your truck... I might buy a 5 gallon can for my shop heater...

Well I got to admit its a hell of a thread and learning something from all the comments/posts...

The correct way to check for AC noise is use a oscilloscope to see the noise ride on the DC voltage.

I'm now running 5x3 during my wood haul and all seeing if I can tame the Edge Comp and see if I can reach good MPG on this setting.. So far its tough when your hauling up and own hills with 2 cords of wood at a time...

I never bothered to keep the receipts because of the simple fact there is only 1 fuel station I use around home. Then if I got to Boise i use the same fuel station in Payette every time. Then if I got to Lewiston I use the same one there... Never had a bad tank of fuel but once at a local Mom & Pop fuel station here at home. After that I knew what to look for and ask the owner how they deal with the pump and filters. Just to let you know I know of 2 stations locally to me I will not buy fuel from because of weather issues, shelter, pumps, etc... Even though the price might be cheaper I wil not touch the fuel its not worth it.

Just wait I knew of a guy I worked with that got a few tattoos in his younger years. Now that he's older the ink is smeared looking and the artwork is distorted because his skin is no longer tight like when he was young... So after seeing that I'm like nope... Yes there is some fantastic artwork but put it to paper and I can keep it longer...

JL Welding... wild idea I came up with and as a matter of fact I found another person that has your problem too... But I started to think about it again and though about the shield that covers the signal leads into the VP44. The shield lead is ground at the ECM side but never completes the path to the VP44 end so there is technically no way to test this... But What if the shield is no longer doing its job of keeping AC noise out because its broke loose from the ground...

According to my shop labor book its 2.3 hours for compression test for a 2001 Cummins diesel.

Well as for putting the injectors together yes you could do it yourself... But as for doing it right your going to need to take the injectors into a shop and have them pop tested and set properly. Here is a good idea what injector looks like and how it assembles... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injector-cleaning/injector-cleaning.htm

Well as for me the rule of thumb is start in 1st anytime the trailer is hitched up... Then start in 2nd anytime I'm without trailer. But This rule changes if there is a grade and I'm starting on the grade then I start in 1st regardless of trailer or not...

No body marks on me... Never did like the idea of tattoo's...

Lower the pop pressure more advancement of ther timing. Higher the pop pressure more retarded the timing. So its suggested to set the injectors properly and not alter the pop pressures...