Mopar1973Man

Biggest killer is speed... Just going from 55 to 65 MPH will produce double the load. So first off slow way down and set your cruise at 55-60 MPH if you can safely. Dragging brake shoes and/or pads. A single caliber with a gummy puck will eat over 3-4 MPG off your typical MPG number. Don't let this bite you and buy new calipers or brake parts most of the the time you can clean the parts and reassemble and gain back your MPG number.

I don't think so... Just crossed the 175K mark and still truckin' Mighty Whitey needs to roll more...

Problem no wrecking yards near me... Well there is Riggins but there is nothing there for Dodge's... Next closest good wrecking yard is 180-200 miles away...

I know he's been through a few lift pumps and VP44's but how many of each I'm not sure... I remember not to long ago he bought a NAPA VP44 pump and it didn't last much more that a few thousand miles... (3-5 days) I know he'll correct me if I'm wrong...

Well... I hooked up the manifold gauge shot about 100 PSI in the system fire the compressor for a short while to stir the dye oil around to give me a wet spot that is fresh. I black lighted everywhere on the system and found nothing. So the next step was to look for phyiscal damage. I found some... Well I feel like a horses ... I kept a piece of hardware mesh in found of the radiators for years helping keep the bugs and debris out of the coolers and radiators. On the lower left corner as you face the condenser you can clearly see where the hardware mesh had been rubbing the condenser main tube. So I'm going to break out with JB weld and patch it for now and see if that might of been the cause. I'm still going to pressurize the system again and soap it when it a bit warmer today... But This is what I found so far...

Well gang... I got a call from CajFlynn and he's bragging... well his 2001 Dodge Cummins truck just rolled over the 900,000 mile mark and just to prove it I got him to shoot a picture of of the odometer will his cell phone and send it to me... And here is what he hauls everyday... Oh Yeah these pics got added to the video pile! Added - Signature of CajFlynn...

John your really close to me... Straight pipe exhaust 3"/BHAF/2 Stroke +120HP for Level 5x5 Edge Comp +40 RV275 Injectors Last rolled Dyno was 2007 without the injectors 381/826 & 379/831 http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/dyno/dyno%20day.jpg

Hmmm... I got another great forum that is specialize in Tractor and such... www.tractorfarmandfamily.com The owner is a member here LiveOak or (TFF Admin)

Ummm... elshadow I've got 2 Dodge trucks... 2002 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2122-Mopar1973Man-2002-Dodge-Cummins 1996 Dodge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram Then... 1978 Dodge Magnum XE 1976 Dodge Jamboree Motorhome 1973 Dodge Charger SE 1951 Willy's Jeep

Don't sweat it... That lock will flip at 20 post and automatic upgrade to standard membership... As for the truck is a good candidate for restoring. It mighr be fugly now but its going to be a winner later on! I love the idea of watching someones dream turn to reality. Like my program truck 96 Dodge Ram I'm going to repaint the roof and hood this winter nad put a black boss stripe over the truck just to give it style... So post up your ideas and we'll help you along...

Dude don't even go there... I've got fugly too... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram

Awesome job on the crack repair... The dash mat cover it nicely... I've always though og the dash rugs... I always hated how everything glides across the dash and falls on the floor...

I had the same though of just pressurizing the system with compressed air and soaping the system also looking for the funky green dye with black light... I do the black light first before the soap to prevent washing the dye off.

Dude that's just wrong... So were is the pic? or Link?

Yeap I ran the Dyno at 381/826 and 379/831 back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, BHAF and striaght pipe exhaust. But now I've got RV275 injectors and I know I'm eith at or just crossing the 400 HP mark. The only thing you'll find is the stock clutch will begin to slip at the 380-400 HP to the ground mark. So I up grade to South Bend Con OFE single disk clutch and hold tight even hauling 2 cords of firewood up hill. Stay after you fluid changes... Yeah I know the stuff is expensive but it cheap insureance for keeping the transmission happy. Crossing 175K miles and never had a issue with the trans yet... (NV4500) 200K here I come!

I think its more of the fact the low fuel pressure robs the VP44 electroincs of cooling fuel and the electronic get heat stress and begin to act weird and strange. But the P0216 is the prove of it... (Best guess theory...)

Welcome to the site... Glad you joined... The sites theme is more about long life from the engine while still getting a bit more bang for the buck. Yeah stock is boring but there is way of improving your truck with out costing a arm and leg and still get lot of miles out of it... Welcome to the site and bring some pictures in... Lets see your ride!

Ummmm... It should be...

Mine is solely heat related... Only occurs after high pyro runs... It will start to misfire randomly. Once the pyro cools down to 300-350*F miss is gone most times. I'm going to say it going to be injector related more so... But not sure if its pop pressure, design flaw, etc...

Another way to look at blowby... If your blow is so extreme that you loosing large amounts of oil out the breather tube its excessive. If the dipstick is dripping oil its excessive. If the oil cap on the valve cover pop out of your hand while loosen it the blow excessive. I seen this on a 3rd gen... OMG!

I see what Flman getting at... He's talking about hose cheapy $30 kits with a low side gauge hose, can of freon and a can of oil. Being it doesn't cover the high side there is no way to see the amount of expansion the freon has created from heat. Or if the high side switch had failed (exceeding safe pressure levels). Now if the guy had a manifold gauge set he might never of added any freon... (Maybe?)

I feel the love here...

(Temporary hijack) Actually the search function suppose to be repaired by Version 4.2.0 (Back to the normal thread) I think ISX has all the specs on how to build it now he was playing with it and could exactly get it to work after taking to a few people he got it worked out... There is a tee and offrice added to the setup to make it work. (Never mind... :banghead:)

Yea... Simple way to think about it... That VP44 pump only has fuel lubricating all the moving parts. Bosch (not Cummins or Dodge) requires at least 70% of the fuel to be return to the fuel tank. This is used for cooling and lubricanting purpose. Once the fuel pressure dips down below 12 PSI the fuel should start to tapper off and now at 10 PSI the flow has stopped to flowing back to the return line to the tank. Here is the overflow valve. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU At the end of the video the small trickle is what it looks like while the engine is running and liftp pump is below 10 PSI. There is no return... Now in you stock setup the lift pump is know for 2 failures the rotor head to slip or the pressure regulator failure internally in the lift pump. No the plastic hub is not suppose to slip or fall out like these pics. So sad to say the thing that could of saved you about $1,800 bucks is a simple $40 dollar fuel pressure gauge and it would of alerted you to the lift pump failure that actually caused the P0216 code which happen to be a phyiscal wear failure of the timing cam internally in the VP44 cause from lack of fuel pressure. Because now you going to need to replace the VP44, lift pump (suggest AirDog, Raptor, or FASS - Not a FASS DDRP), and get a fuel pressure gauge.

Now a little deeper. As everyone knows there is a HX35 and HY35 turbos. HX35 are 12cm2 at the exhaust opening and the HY35 are 9cm2 at the exhaust opening. HY35 allowed for the turbos to spool up faster for the automatics vs. the HX35 which was used on the manuals. Now I know there is a lot of poor man tuners out there and heard of several stories of taking the exhaust housing off and changing with a 16cm2 to make it breathe more. Which it will this will drop the drive pressure and EGTs but increase the amount of lag and smoke. So with a larger exhaust housing your going to need much more fuel to spin and the same amount of boost as previous boost level but now your boost limit is higher and EGT will climb slower. This is where AH64ID idea of use VG turbo on his 3rd gen going to be awesome. Be able to control the exhaust housing electronically in the cab. In the city be able to close it down to like a 9cm2 and have quick spool from light to light controlling smoke. But hit the interstate and open it up to like a 22cm2 and allow it to breathe. (Curious how that going???)