Mopar1973Man

Sorry to say there is roughly 44-46 different ECMs for the 98.5 to 2002 series for each year. Federal emmision pack, Ca. emmisions pack, 5 speed, 6 speed, automatic trans, etc. Best thing I can say try looking for a ECM rebuilder. Because anything you find in a wrecking yard will require you to reflash the ECM to insert your proper VIN number to unlock it.

As for APPS sensor to cause another failure with the VP44 it just won't happen... (Sorry) Well the thing is you could reset the error codes and try to prime the fuel system up and start it but if the codes return or the pump won't pump fuel (should look like a power washer going off under the hood) then the VP44 is shot sad to say...

Yeap... The VP44 is shot for sure with that list of codes... The APPS sensor is gone too... My bad on the Edge juice I assumed you had a Edge box of some sort since you got the error codes from there... But the MAP sensor is located here... Rear of the fuel filter... #7 is the MAP sensor... Yeap that is the wiring diagram of the CCD network bus and all the thing it connects to. Typically its a loose or bad connector. Hang in there I'm willing to teach want you need to know to fix your beast it just going to take a bit of time...

Rotational Mass & Rotational Resistance got you... Cooper STT's 265/75 R16 (16-18 MPG) vs. Big O AT's 235/85 R16 (19-21 MPG) Face width of the Cooper STT and tread design Weight of a Cooper STT 265/75 R16 tire Big O AT 235/85 R16 width and tread pattern Big O AT tire weight

Shoot anything under about 500-700 thousand miles is safe to mod... You got to have a chat with CaJFlynn with his 2001 Dodge Cummins and past the 900K mark and going for the 1 MIL!!! Mild mods are fine as long as you treat the truck right... But if you go out to thrash on it daily of course it will fail soon...

P0121- Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage. APPS Sensor failure - Replacement required. P0122- Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low APPS voltage input below the minimum acceptable voltage. APPS Sensor failure - Replacement required. P0234- Turbo Boost Limit Exceeded Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate. Wastegate rusted shut - Inspect the wastegate. P0236- Map Sensor Too High Too Long Problem detected in turbocharger wastegate. Unhook you Edge Juice and take for a test drive if the code stay cleared then the Edge juice module had failed. If the code comes back the MAP sensor failed. P0251- Fuel Inj. Pump Mech. Failure Fuel Valve Feedback Circuit Problem sensed with fuel circuit internal to fuel injection pump. P0252- fuel inj pump fuel valve stuck P0253- Fuel Injection Pump Fuel Valve Open Circuit Problem sensed with fuel circuit internal to fuel injection pump. Injection pump failure. P0380- Intake Air Heater Relay #1 Control Circuit Problem detected in #1 air heater solenoid/relay circuit (not heater element) P0382- Intake Air Heater Relay #2 Control Circuit Problem detected in #2 air heater solenoid/relay circuit (not heater element) Grid Heater solenoids are disconnected or failed. P1688- Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure Internal problem within the fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. VP44 Electronics have failed. P1689- No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module Data link circuit failure between ECM and fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. This is most likely caused by the P1688 code. P1698- No CCD Messages received from PCM Bus communication failure to PCM. A Companion DTC was set in both the ECM and PCM. Now this is most likely a wiring issue under the hood check all the connectors and grounds. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Only time I see the need for a drawstraw is for a 150 GPH pump. The 100 GPH pumps work fine from the stock fuel sender (without the intank pump). But if you got a intank pump now you've got no choice and have to upgrade to a drawstraw for any aftermarket pump...

Tell you the truth gangs are not exact interresting when you live in the bad neighborhood for 20 years in California. Pacoima Ca. It was a nasty neighborhood I worked a motorcycle wrecking yard at night keeping the thieves from jumping the fence and stealing motorcycle parts. But during this time we worked in the back doing body work on the wrecked motorcycles that came in. Having you vehicles broken into... Having your home ransacked... Sorry... That why I moved to Idaho...

All 1998.5 to 2002 had the lift pump on the engine block on the driver side... The only time this changed is if someone took there truck to the dealer and the dealer automatically installs a junk in-tank pump. The way to tell is the fuel lines are bridged together with a aluminum block where the old pump was located and the lift pump leads are extended to the fuel tank.

Well gang... winter is coming to Idaho soon. I've got a crazy idea for a software I want to build for the site. I've been hunting all over the internet for something even close but never found it yet. Ok... I need to explain myself. Currently I'm using a program called Automotive Wolf to track my maintenance on my vehicle. But then I thought like yeah with today's economy nobody can just throw money at software for a purpose like this. But I started studing MySQL and PHP for the past few nights and getting a rough road map of design made up. I'm looking to build a stand-alone program for now that will track your vehicle(s) maintence records. But I'm wanting to have a average calculator that can try to predict when next oil change is going to be and send you a email notifing the owner of that maintenance. Being I've never really created a PHP program it going to very rough and crude at first but I'm going to give it my best shot. The first few small program I produced is the ratio calculator (Liters/metric) here. <?php $gal = $_POST["liter"]; $rat = $_POST["ratio0"]; $ozfuel = (1000 * $gal); $mix = ($ozfuel / $rat); ?> So now to move beyond the simple few lines of code to a wider idea to try and help my group of vehicle owners... I'm open to ideas and suggestions... --- Update to the previous post... Like last night I did the studying and reading up for how to layout the database to hold the information on the server. Now I'm working out what information I need to capture from the members or users... But the more I think about it I'm might barrow or share information from vBulletin (forum) so registered members can just click and enjoy. Like on the template layout I'm going to most likely use defined constants for the text layout of the screen. I need to contact vBulletin and find out if there is any special login requirements so I can access the database. Oh the ideas and dreams running through my head right now... I've got all winter to get something slamed together...

I'm going to guess you got a latch problem more than alignment problem. Does the door apper to line up properly? (equal gap around the door) Like after talking to ISX above his case of a twisted door but the problem we got is the stud in the pic which is odd because neith my 02 or 96 are setup that way... But I still think you can get the adjustment of the door right with the bolt and stud of the door.

If using Elshadow's idea there then a propane torch in most cases is fine because it can get much hotter than "Oil Smoke" for large parts. But small thing like bolt it can get them ret hot...

At least its fixed up...

Bob... You giong to have to still test for fuel pressure and verify its not a sucking air leak (loss of pressure) or a restriction like the fuel sock in the tank plugged up (loss of pressure). As for the wiring I was actually hoping that your going to test from VP44 pins to ECM pins for resistance. This would rule out a corroded pin or wire which some here are still fighting wiring issues between the injection pump and ECM. Like a previous member was here with a 1690 code and did all the test and got frustrated with the code returning even though he changed the VP44 and the cam sensor... Come to find out it was a weak connector on both the ECM and Cam sensor so everytime the connector wiggled a bit from vibration the cam sensor leads would throw a pulse to the ECM at the wrong time hence tossing the P1690 code... So what I'm getting at is don't just dismiss everything right away as being OK double check yourself...

Very valid point... I've lean on battery tops and touch a single terminal and the rest of my arm on the plastic and yea feel the tingle run through your arm from the current flow. Also like Elshadow is pointing out the batteries last much longer being clean because it not leaking current across the battery.

How about fuel pressure is the lift pump putting out enough fuel pressure at WOT? Is the fuel filter plugged up? Pick sock in the tank plugged up? As for the P1689 did you check the wiring for problems yet? But 420K miles on a VP44 is lived a very long happy life if it dies tomorrow I'd say you got you moneys worth from it.

Here is what I was talking about size wise... Then my Airdog 150 under the truck...

What do you have going on door sag? http://www.google.com/products?q=dodge+ram+door+pin+bushings&aq=f

Sorry to say Bob but the battery disconnect will not clear the codes... But it will clear the APPS sensor calibration... As for the P1689 code... Check the fuel pump relay in the PDC by swapping the relay with like the horn or something... And you might check over the diagnostic page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-error.htm

Another old trick I'll place here that works! WARNING! Don't do this on the battery. With a propane torch heat the bolt up carefully so not to melt the lead. Get it as hot as possible and then dip it in cold water. What occurs is the metal expands as you dip in ice cold water the exterior metal contracts rapid and usual enough to loosen the fastener. I done this trick on older metal battery hold downs and easily twist the nuts right off with your fingers... But in your case with the lead terimnal you got to be careful...

:wow:That is a lot of saddle time...

Geez... I love finding out history like that! I typically try to imagine what it must of been like back in the day when that dam and archway was built.

At this point I would take and remove the battery lead from the battery. Using a hacksaw I would cut the bolt out of the terminal though the gap in the lead. Now you can replace the battery terminal bolt. As for keeping the corrosion free is simple I use good ol' engine oil. I take my oil can and give a small oil to each terminal and wipe around. Then very carefully squeeze a few pumps on the tie down bolts and let it run to the bottom. Here is my terminal after 9 years with my factory batteries yet... Take notice the hold down bolts at factory fresh and not all ate up and corroded.

Yea I got to authorize the files for download use... So let me know when you do upload to the site because it doesn't notify me...:banghead:

This applies to the VP44 trucks. I know as the boost pressure rises the timng curve start to retard some. So if you boost rises above 5 PSI you losing timing now. Also more boost means more fuel used. As for the pyrometer more fuel means more heat so keep the heat down and MPG's will naturally rise up. Now how I found this tidbit was playing with a smoke switch and you can phyiscally hear the rattle change or disappear as the boost fooler is switch on (full boost). Then return to normal (0 boost) and rattle returns. Nice part is most of Idaho (in my local area) the highways are in the range of 45-65 MPH. All city streets are 25 MPH. Then all residential areas are typically 15 MPH. Most of the time I set the cruise for 55 MPH and most of the time traffic doesn't mine and they just tag along.