Mopar1973Man

No that pic is about 3 years old... I was having a issue with my Edge Comp and lack of power come to find out the $140 I spent on both the wiring adapter and the sensor it was a Edge Comp bug... :banghead:

Huh? The adapter cord will plug right into the Edge module... I've got one too...

In a previous thread I found a partial kit that had a price tag of ~$3K just for all the weird parts like injection tubes, brackets, gear housing, pump gear, etc. But this price tag did not include... Injection pump, shut off solenoid, having the injector re-poped for the Ppump, different lift pump for 40-45 PSI, etc... I figure you can cross the $3K mark with all the other toyz...

Well if your going that far you better think about pull the engine out and putting it on engine stand and go from top to bottom.

But being behind the transfer case its hard to create a vacuum without passing wind to create it. (In theory)

May a rear facing scoop for over the fan assemlby to prevent un-needed splashing and loading of the fan... (Thinking out loud...)

Hmmm... Not to sound rude but what do these two have in common? (Head and Crank) I've having hard time following what you got up your sleeve. Could you explain your idea bit more... I would jack the engine slighly (engine hoist) and get the pan out and take a peek...

Cleaning a MAP sensor that failed rarely ever fixes the problem... If there is a code present most times it requires replacement... But what I'm digging for is to find out is it the MAP sensor or is it the Edge Module...

Kind of odd you hapen to mention this... ISX and myself were talking about this not to long ago. It's a assumed the 24V head would fit a 12V but other thing like pistons would have to change. I think the bowl of the piston is different on the 12V vs. 24V because of the angle of the injectors.

If you disconnect the Edge there is no boost fooling so if you do any WOT operations it might go over 20 PSI boost because of the boost elbow and trip a P0234 (boost pressure too high). At this point the engine will defuel heavy and the CEL light might come on. But what I'm trying to find out that is the MAP sensor actually failed or is the Edge module screwed up and feeding bad information to the ECM which is very possible so if you disconnect the Edge module completely and the problem goes away then the Edge module is to blame and the MAP sensor is fine. But if the error codes return then MAP sensor is damaged and needs replacing...

Edge has to be phyiscally disconnected to be tested. Because even off the Edge will boost fool. Be aware your boost elbow is present in the turbo too... Yes there is 2 computers dumping codes... P-PCU -------- Pxxxx -------- P Done -------- P ECU -------- Pxxxx -------- P Done Is what it should display... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do

Really simple... Build my setup... Now on the second relay all light hook to 87 or 87a just cant remember... As for the violet wire in the diagram goes where the green and brown wire is in the pic. Your setup you will have a relay there so you'll have to tuck the wire like my trailer relay. Then the trailer wire the green one in the drawing that would have a second switch one leg to the trailer relay like now, the center to the green wire, and the other leg would be to 12V.

Fog lamp relay in the PDC...

Welcome to the group... Well hang around there is going to be plenty of talk on cold weather here really quick so I'm sure if you start asking questions well get you geared up for the season... I just ate the last of my Idaho Smoked Salmon last night...

If it was me I would leave the banjo head ther but cut the tubing back flare the end slighly (homemade barb) and use a good fuel grade hose. The problem is the fitting in the VP44 is a Overflow valve so that can't be replaced. The overflow valve is a regulator to keep the fuel pressure up like ISX mention...

That's my thought on it too...Because if the valve is burnt, seat cracked, maybe cracked between exhaust seats, etc you not going to that on a blow by test. I also vote for compression test...

Naw... It's sweating horsepower...

Being your this far I would replace the... [*]Cam Cover Gasket [*]Both front and rear main crank seals

NO! I just here for the information... You need to find a new injection pump like ISX said...

I say with the lights... Because of one thing... If you got stock fog lamps now that means they are on with the lights now so if you aim the other light higher for a high beam position you going to want to drop them if you got on coming traffic. So if you got a toggle switch and a dimmer switch to worry about it just way too confusing on a later night when your tired... Keep the controls simple... Old controls wihch no longer exist... The jake still there but the other 2 switch are gone... Now here is the new controls... Fog lamps left, reverse lights center, red emergency light right... Everything else is controlled by standard head light switch and dimmer controls...

VP44 is dead... P1688 - Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure Internal problem within the fuel injection pump. Low power, engine derated, or engine stops. A tip... Any error code should be looked up in the manufacture factory service manual for that make and model so you get the right information about the error codes... Error code listing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/error-codes.pdf So sorry to say time to break out the check book...

If its a temporary test gauge there is a shrader valve on the Vp44 for a test port. If its a in cab gauge you'll need a tapped banjo bolt and hook the gauge up at the fuel filter outlet.

Then just bind all the light on one side of the second relay on the right. But be aware you can never upgrade to 100w bulbs then because you'll be 16.6 Amps with 4 50w bulbs load across the relay which is fine and you would use a 20 Amp fuse and 30 amp Aux Relay.

Interested in seeing this completed...

Then all you need to do on my setup is add 1 more rocker switch and tap the wire that goes to the trailer lights relay. So on one position is forced ON, OFF, Auto ON... So the terminal of the SPDT would be 1. +12V2. To light trigger relay3. To trailer relay Problem solved...