Mopar1973Man

There is something wrong for sure... What's your fuel pressure like? (Need both WOT and idle pressures) How is you fuel filter when was it changed last? Being you can only rev to 1.4K that is pointing to limited fuel delievery (low fuel pressure) or timing malfunction...

I agree I think the ECM software has been program to understand the offset and deal with its location... I think where things go bad is when people relocate the sensor like to the 3rd gen or 12V location or up on the intake elbow...

I hate to say it but a wet cell battery is more durable than a dry cell... But since most all batteries are made by a handful of big corps. I would look at warranty coverage more so than name brand. Like I got a Napa battery in Mom's 96 and its been rock solid now for 2 years. (Hard to compare apples and oranges). But with all breeds of batteries out there I would look at the warranty more so...

As from what I found out with accidential use of the IAT sensor fooler from my high idle mod I can set it for 26*F or 13*F IAT temps. From what occurs is uncontrolled smoking even with the Edge Comp OFF from the get go and much lower MPG's. The colder the IAT becomes the more smoke and less MPG I get... Like I meantion before right around 90-110*F IAT temp is the best for MPG's.

Actually safer yet... On - Auto Skip the OFF idea... Like on my Goldwing Motorcycle if I know I'm going to be trapped in traffic I flipped the coolant fan to ON. But if I flipped the switch the other direction to AUTO then I knew if I forgot the coolant fan would come on if I spaced out and wasn't paying attention to coolant temps...

Well during our brief get together in the Chevron parking lots you now understand the 24V's problem of placement now. 12V and CR are lucky to have the sensor in a good place and show close to normal temp instead of offset temps because of coolant jackets and poor air flow...

Thank you for the great comments they mean a world to us here... More the merrier... We are all here to learn from each other.

I had to pick on ya... Like me when I'm around home I use Mom's 96 for local stuff but long haul I break out the Cummins... So I know what you mean... But I had to pick on the Go Kart...

Actually there is no check valve technically in the system. It just a air tight system that holds prime so if there is a bad O-ring, fuel line, etc it will bleed air in the system allow the fuel to drain back to the fuel take. Like the overflow valve is a check valve but even its got a tiny pin hole to allow to bleed air in or out of the system. Lift pump is not say fuel tight so once the ignition is off the sliding vanes can move to allow air to enter.. So like I said you'll have to back check the fuel system by adding a little bit of air pressure (1-2 PSI) to the fuel tank and having a friend look around the fuel line for wet spots or leaks.

No it didn't hurt nor was I in any danger... I used tie straps to balance the trans and keep it from get out of wack. So once it was down I loosen the strap and slid the trans back to do the clutch and this what the jack look like holding the trans and transfer...

Heck he's got a little go cart for hauling around Boise... Like myself I'm close to 23K miles a year and Mom's 96 is like 3-5K a year...

We John you seem to of done well getting this far... sorry I've not been around much to help between company and running out to chase firewood... But get those cooler line sealed up and you should be fine...

I figured that was coming... Dodge wants way too much for fuel senders...

That's how I got mine done I had Bob Wagner send me his personal Smarty and I got to play with it for a couple of weeks and the just return to stock and mailed it back. Thing is either way is safe going to the dealer or using the smarty... If you can't get a smarty then got to this page... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm Print it out and then take it to you local dealer they can follow the step by step instructions to enable the high idle. Just follow from #7 down...

That points to the issue that your alternator might have a bad diode creating AC waveform. What you doing is covering up the AC noise using tin foil. So I would suggest you have the alternator bench tested for diode function. Because even 1 bad diode could leak AC into the power.

P1698 code is from the fact it not able to communicate between the ECM & PCM over the CCD Network... Check your wiring sockets and connectors for being good and tight...

Actually car transmission jack is fine but the transfer case got to come off first before it will work or you'll look like...

I'm talking about this old write up which is wrong... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-maintenance/357-apps-reseting.html Which explained here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/apps-adjustment.htm As you'll find out I got a full instructions on Timbo install... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/apps/timbo-install.htm

53 Blocks are rather common... But the weird part is that I've seen completely stock truck crack the block and then seen big HP/TQ out of 53 block and live a very long life of 500K or more miles... http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

I think the whole DPF system in the entire system is bad... Like a lot of people I know don't drive long hand and drive alot of dirt roads in the mountains where roads speeds don't allow for regen process to occur. So if the DPF is plugging up and your 60 miles from town up a dirt road what are you going to do? No cell service? Walking is not a option? At any point the system is hazardous... As for EMS/Fire if your vehicle breaks down or goes limp mode that can be the difference of a lawsuit, dearth, or serious injury! Once again I think that any kind of system that can put the vehicle in limp more, shutdown, etc is just plain hazardous to anyone... Another example say you transporting a injury person to safety say from the mountains into town and DPF system cut you out... Just bad... One of the few reasons I will not give up my 24V 2nd Dodge Cummins... Just like a thread I posted a while back where the tire pressure sensor on a Motorhome disabled the engine in a blind corner and left hime stranded in the lane in this blind corner...

Dodge Factory Service Manuals is where I got most of them... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php And yes that's exactly how the APPS sensor is wired to the ECM... Take notice there is NO direct connection to the PCM. This why I don't suggest doing the voltage adjustment like most sites/forum suggest because it will make matter MUCH worse!

True... I just tend to think about majority of people live in the city and do a lot of start and stop driving in town... This is where it goes down hill... But yeah your right once the vehicle is rolling and can keep it rolling you will gain or keep the MPG's but getting caught in heavy traffic it can bite back...

Wow! Some long threads there discussing 2 cycle oil usage...

Did you try running through the vendor list here? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Another try is... http://www.goerend.com/

Pin 2 would be grounded in THROTTLING. Pin 6 would be grounded in IDLE.