Mopar1973Man

Good way to gain HP/TQ and quicker spool... But my question is how about longevity and MPG's?

That's the one I always for get about... But Gassernomore got it... Thanx...

Point of reference... 400-450 HP is a fairly easy point to reach and doesn't require a lot of expensive reworking...

It funny if it under a warrnty they would bench it and tell you its broke or failed anyways... Keep digging there has to be a answer somewhere...

That is screaming restriction or the volume demand is higher than volume supplied. which is... a. Suction restrictionb. Fuel filter pluggedc. Bad fuel pump A good fuel system should only drop 2-3 PSI... Max of 5 PSI beyond that you got serious issues. I typically idle at 17 PSI and never drop below 15 PSI. Here is my straw... I can barely fit a quarter under the tip.

Just stop in a hardware store for the bushing... (3/4 to 1/8 NPT) As for the tubing get that at NAPA get Air Brake line (1/8") Polyon line. This stuf never breaks or fails...

Yup!

No actually it was a editor setting on his side... Back in your UserCP there is a editor selection and yours was set for Basic (no BB Code) but I changed it for you to WYSIWYG...

With the boost bolt you got to be very careful not to snap it off since the bolt is thin walled. Then the tubing will always be sticking up and everytime you do any work on the truck it going to take the chance of snapping the tubing off... With it in the side of the head it can be routed down and out of the way so it highly unlikely to break the tubing. Kind of like Geno's Garage had a fuel filter lid with a 1/8" NPT tap for fuel pressure gauge... It not very popular because the tubing go damaged from it sticking straight up like mention above. Not to mention you had to remove the tubing everytime to change the filter...

Hmmm... I still stand behind my orignal idea of having both bench tested for a small fee and take the risk out of guessing...

Sounds like the batteries were done...

For a Napa Starter its $243 with a $99 core charge... So if LarryB's contacts was $29.95 I say its a huge savings of 837%!!!

Just fine... The new contact fixed it right up... LarryB's contact kit does the trick nicely...

I've not exactly drove big rigs but I driven a lot of large fire trucks that could compete with big trucks.

Happy birthday... Get round for ProWelder <- Prowelder

Here is the tested list... The lower the HFRR the better... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm As for me I'm getting ready to clear 100K miles using 2 cycle oil. No problems here...

Wow! I bought mine from Cummins and got the MAP sensor and adapter harness for $130... (Tip for the future)

Excuse me? Timezone is 15 miles from me...

Back in California I use to lay in the front seat of my Dodge Charger with the CB and PA on and wait for the kiddies to walk up to the front door then I would growl or make scary noises... Most wouldn't stick around they would bail...

The only reason I mention having the filter first before the pump comes from a injection shop in Lewiston, ID that discussed the functions of the FASS and Airdog. According to him a filter works best under a vacuum instead of pressure. But that was his information...

If the code returns instantly with the key just being turned on them most likely the MAP sensor is toast...

Sound good to me...

Both are good gauges and both need to be protected from the water hammer so either way you go your going to need either a needle valve or a snubber... The only downside to electric gauges its possible to be inaccurate from poor wiring connections.

It's all good... But I like the idea of getting a chat together in the evening... But more I think about it there has to be a schedule for each time zone... Or every time zone is the same time? So if you say PST is at 6pm then EST would 10pm so it to late... So say 6pm for all timezones but each time zone has a different night?

The the spare key I keep in my wallet my local hardware store cut 5 keys and the 6th one finally worked...