Mopar1973Man

This is a possible result of poor produced BioDiesel this is cause from not washing the fuel properly.

ECM is going be the next step... As for Rburks comment... As he calls me out on a mistake... Well being the first wiring diagram we all had was the cheap black and white diagrams from the Dodge FSM well I did pay close attention to the grounds. Come to find out the color map shows very clearly the ground terimnal behind the starter is lift pump, fuel heater and I think grid heater solenoid. As for the rest of the grounds like the engine sensors and the ECM ground we start tracing them down and found out they come together at the engine side battery ground not the terminal behind the starter. So I need a good ol'....

Little better Elshadow??? On 98.5 and 99 they use APPS sensor for cruise after that I think in 2000 they switched and the PCM diectly controls the ECM and omits the APPS sensor out right.

Actually that is more like water is what appears like since most all BioDiesel is rinse with water to remove the waste products. As for seperation that typically occurs in cold weather the Bio part of the fuel will sink to the bottom of the tank and solidify and the diesel will seperate and rise above the biodiesel. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/93-Bio-Diesel-and-the-effects...?highlight=biodiesel Some of the wonderful effects of biodiesel...

Best idea is to get the ball joint press tool for doing them... Some heat might help ease them out.

Vacuum line issues are normally pointed out quickly because the vent controls always land on DEF regardless of the vent control setting. The other problem that does occur is housing rots from the battery acid or the wiring corrodes...

Yeah Mom's 96 looks nasty... Center of the hood. Wide angle view of the roof. Driver side front of the roof. Driver side of the hood

Not bad... Hopefully we see him show up at the site..

Now Mom's 96 was out since 2002 and still good it only this spring I finally kicked the 79 Dodge magnum XE out of the garage and stuck her truck in. Now on her truck the paint is going south completely since last winter it been peeling off the hood and top like gang busters. So I didn't get the dash yet but the paint is gone south for sure... Mine... well its had a pampered life of being in the garage or parked under huge shade trees and kept out of the direct sunlight. Just last year I got a sunshade to put in the windshield to keep the baking summer sun off the dash...

Ok guys... Lets see pics of your broken dash... I would like to see some... Its got to be a southern problem because I've not seen a single one yet here in Idaho yet...

Chrome makes it go faster... The only problem is no one will ever know they are chrome/polished injectors but you...

Yes sir... BD Stealth Plate...

I think there is more to that explosion that just adding freon... * High side switch malfunction?* Moisture possibly in the system plugged the orfice tube? But that one good reason to have a manifold gauge set before you even think of adding freon.

Remember there is all the suction line from the fuel tank forward to the lift pump that will not leak outwards and will require some air pressure to make it show.

This post...

See... I knew it was coming...

That's what I got on my truck now is a set of Rancho's 5000

I don't want to open mouth and insert foot but I'm no better...:banghead: I know IE8 and IESpell are there... I know FireFox has a spell check and so does Opera... Rarely use them...

No... Sad to say I did a video on this and shocking to see at 17 PSI it can't pass enough fuel to open the return line... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU --- Update to the previous post... That's funny you posted the same thing...

Yeah the MAP sensor plug...

Actually its internal to the pump... Take notice to pin #5 has the fuel shut off signal

Typical don't have a issue with cool down... It when I've been hauling heavy... So if I'm coming home loaded with firewood I'll pull in the yard and unhitch the trailer and leave it idle while I deal with the trailer by that time the engine is cooled off...

Yeap I do the same thing... If I 'm hauling heavy I shut the exhaust brake off and start gearing down about a mile out and let it coast to my driveway. This drops it from 900*F to 400* in a quick hurry. Then I don't have to wait a long time to shut down.But if I use the exhaust brake pull in the yard and then I might have to wait 4-5 minutes for the turbo to cool below 350*F...

Ummm... I've been using ArmorAll protectant for years on my 2 Dodge's which is a 1996 and 2002 neither dash has cracked yet. The key feature to how long your dash is going to last is how little the dash is exposed to direct sunlight. So I hate to say it but I don't think ArmorAll made a poor claim I think its about the material that Dodge used for producing the dash in the first place... http://www.dodgeproblems.com/problems/cracked-dashboard.shtml Not uncommon... http://www.google.com/search?q=dodge+dash+cracking+TSB&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a

Actually the P0216 is from the fact the ECM is calling for certain amount of timing and the timing is not being reached. This is apparent with the white smoke in the mornings (retarded timing) and bogging down.