Mopar1973Man

Well the best I can say is pull both lines at the CAD unit and test for vacuum on both lines in both position 2WD and 4WD. As for after that the only thing I can say is to jack up the front axle (and use jackstands) and lock it into 4WD. Don't put the main trans in gear! But you should be able to tell because either the front wheel will turn free or the front driveshaft will turn with the tires.

Ohhhh... Geezz! I know exactly what that is like... I've got a wheat grinder mounted to a old butcher block and did the fresh grind flour and made bread a few times... Then what you do is back off the grinder wheel tension a bit and do a course grind kind of cracked then make that like oatmeal and eat your fresh bread and wheat oatmeal for breakfast and your ready for a great day! You might consider taking a peek at a friends site he's right up your alley... www.tractorfarmandfamily.com Your behind... 15K post at CF.com... But I hope you get home soon so you can play with your truck a bit... As for me... I love to work on the property... Got 5 acres to maintain, then take care of the irragation dam 1/4 mile behind the house. Then other day I just love to jump on the ATV and head out in the great outdoors and enjoy the scenery. This gives me a chance at doing a bit of grouse hunting, looking for new firewood areas, or maybe new ideas for just heading out to go camping...

Can you get me a picture of it by chance? --- Update I quick ran through the books and can't find anything...

Yeap the older fuel cans ran for 94 to 99 I think... After 99 then the plastic lid came into being.

Yeah you need a snubber / needle valve the grease gun hose is not enough to protect from water hammering... Even 10 feet of 1/8 air line running into my cab isn't enough... The electric sender might already be damaged..

To the injectors... As long as the ECM seeing Idle Validation switch being true the fuel rate is governor only if at idle speed above that there is ZERO fuel flow to the injectors (coast down hill). As for overflow flow if the pressure high enough to open the overflow valve then fuel will flow through there. But I still question if the vane pump internally is enough at times to open the valve when then pressure are weak?

No fair... Well at least there is good humor in the thread! I got admit though you look at where wew came from with the older 1st gen bodies that were light and didn't need a whole lot of HP/TQ to keep up with the fat boys. This is clearly evident with Taz with his 1992 Dodge (Stock injectors, HX35 turbo, VE pump turned up) when he was here in Riggins. He use to egg me on to try and pass and trust me I know I produce much more HP/TQ than he does bar none. But that old light bodied 1st Gen would flat scoot down the pavement... Never the less I can gain on him but never won a out right race... (Suckin Air and fuel pressure fell - Dropped the throttle at 98 MPH!) :banghead: "I could of had him!"

Elbow? Add a elbow to the fitting then point it back toward the firewall.

Man that just Sic! I would love to take a ride in truck like that once...

Because of the watermarking effect I added to the site i shot myself in the foot now... So I'm going to ask you guy to redo you pics for me but I'll start a new thread. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2315-Pitures-of-your-truck-need-for-Video!?p=17627#post17627 Sorry to make you all start over... My Bad! :banghead:

Apparently the ABS system is still working... This is typical of when the front sensor(s) fail and come to a stop and the ABS system assumes your already locked up the nose so it blocks the brake fluid travel to prevent further skidding which it can't so full stoppage of the flow occurs till the system throws a code and lights the ABS light and then the ABS system is disabled. So to tell you the truth the safest thing you can do is just replace the 2 front sensors and the 1 rear sensor and re-enable the system.

It will automatically work with e CCD bus because the addressing system will direct the informatio where it needs to be. As for it showing correct numbers it won't for you it will be way off like showing 28-35 MPG all the time when you do your math it will be like 18-19 MPG... Reason being is the Edge and the injectors throw the tune off the computer so the data is skewed.. The only thing that is close to right would either be a Ultra Gauge or a ScanGauge II... At least those can be programmed. Found this in the TSB from Dodge... From the TSB - TAMPERING WITH VP44 FUEL PUMP ON CUMMINS DIESEL ENGINE Telltale evidence of tampering can be: a. The seizure of the pump rotor, and/or cracked or overstressed pump cam ring. b. The protective sleeve around the two wires may be rolled or cut back to gain access for connection. c. The overhead console information center (if so equipped) may read out unrealistic fuel mileage numbers (30+). d. The plastic rectangular cover and its attaching screws located on top of the fuel pump, and used to close off the fuel pump control module, may show signs of tampering and/or modification.

Go over to my Download area and download the wiring map for the 2002 and there is 4 pages of grounds listed. All mapped out for you!

Injectors??? The RV275 I got from CaJFlynn have over 400K miles on them and I'm still going... Slight miss now and then but still going strong at 20-21 MPG and good power.

Sound like it would be a good cause of your problems... Keep us posted...

CCD Network is down for sure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Yeah I could feel the love over the phone with ISX while I was doing mine. He was giving me a rash of crap and not being very helpful... But I still manage to figure out how to remove the darn thing...

Yes a snubber works just as good... I tend to suggest the needle valve more so for in dash mechanical gauges because of the sole fact is that with a snubber you can't shut it off if it start leaking. But with a needle valve you can shut it off and continue driving for the day or till you can get it repaired.

Yes. Waterhammer radiates from the VP44 and will deminish over distance of the line but we are talking several feet of line not inches. Like here at my house if I close the ball valve on the irriagtion line to quickly the water hammer pulse runs over 100 feet up hill before it stops. But my example I taking much higher pressure and much more flow. Yes farther from the source of water hammer (VP44) the better for the life of the gauge. More than likely Yes! Any kind of line restriction (size reduction) will cause a choke point and reduce pressure. I'm pretty sure it would... But the only way to find out is to pull the current banjo and measure and try it.

Now what are you going to do? You first with the freight shaker... I need someone to show me how with a little more experience...

Here is the best I can do... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh7lOJLD948

Yeah I seen a few parallel setups and a few series the series setup will increase the pressure most time will beyond 20 PSI but the parallels were good at delievering good volume at the strongest pumps pressure. Problem... 2 Stock Carter pumps is more expensive that 1 single Raptor 150 GPH pump... Not to mention the Carter pumps typically have a 30 day warranty and the Raptor is lifetime... No it makes no sense to run a parallel setup...

NOT! Those wicked corners I'd never survive!!!

You know they made turbo lag and hand shakers to give the V8's a chance right? I got to admit for a older truck you still held you ground quite well but I notice it was gaining on you most of the till 80 MPH and then the tables changed...

Now that's funny... :lmao2:Old school beat the pants off of new and improved... I bet if he took all the smog, EGR, DPF, and BS off that Ford it might have a chance at beating you...