Mopar1973Man

Since this thread is getting searched for quiet a bit I desided to add it to the sticky pile...

(Shakin' Head) Here is the flawed thinking... Ok... First off the factory requirement from dodge/Cummins is 10 PSI in there factory service manual. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm Second off if you run the revised volume test by Dodge/Cummins with 8 PSI you'll fall the test every time... Then my long story to make you think outside the box. You know the VP44 has 1 inlet for fuel and 2 outlets for return (overflow valve and the injectors). So let say you ar holding 10-12 PSI typically. Driving around there might be enough flow to keep the pump happy with lubing and cooling for the electronics. But now if you like myself that runs the forest road and climb high in the mountain to get firewood Then on the return trip down I'm coast the entire way back to the highway jakin'. So this mean there is nothing going to the injectors while coasting (outlet #1 closed!) and since the fuel pressure is below 14 PSI (outlet #2 is limited if any!) So now where is the fuel going? Nowhere it can do it job of cooling and lubing the pump if there is no flow. My suggested minimum pressure is 14-15 PSI this will insure in all cases the overflow valve remains open flowing fuel through the VP44 keeping lubed and cooled even under complete stress... Below 14 PSI the flow is dependant on the amount of throttle your giving to keep the flow moving. But even Bosch noted that "At least 70% of the fuel should be return to the tank and only 30% of the fuel burned. This is for cooling and lubing purposes!" I can go on about stock pump volumes and such but I'm sure you getting a picture now...

If you go this route with water/meth make sure you don't get too crazy with the methanol it can be rather damaging to the engine... Always mix it in proper ratio.

Well actually the price I paid for mine back in 2002 was $700 so its not too far out... But the system does run on vacuum and works very good... Being I'm still running stock brake pads at 174K miles and still going... I might do brakes at 200K miles... True story...

Yeap... The wastegate is opening early because of the HY35 design with a hard line. So yes your going to need a j-hook to hold it back a bit longer to build boost to keep the EGT's in check.

Ground cable issues do play hell on the electronics... Ummm... Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the truck?

Darn kids... Old school 12V's... No I just didn't rotate the pics... But it cool looking huh?

Actually it good for 38-40 PSI according to Edge... Beyond that the MAP sensor is topped out and won't go any farther... So it up to you to supply a 0-60 PSI or a 0-100 PSI at that point... I'm currently using a 0-35 PSI Dipricol gauge. But I doubt you building for racing though... The other problem is digital displays update very slowly so as for seeing a sudden change of values a digital display is not going to do it. But a mechanical gauge will show turbo bark very clearly...

Radiator is easy to pull out... (Manual Trans) [*]Drain the coolant [*]Pull the upper and lower hoses [*]Remove the coolant bottom (lift upwards) [*]Remove the wiper fluid bottle (Disconnect the hose, electrical, and the sensor then using a screwdriver to release the bottle from the shroud. CAREFULLY!) [*]4 10mm bolts & 2 clips holding the shroud slide it on the fan. [*]2 10mm bolts holding the radiator. (Lift!) * Auto trans will have cooler lines on the tank header to remove before. This should be done after the shroud is remove to give more access. * No intercooler removal required! Pics back here.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2241-Radiator-cleaning

Correct you need more fuel to drive the turbo more... As for the j-hook yes you going to need that to exceed the stock limts on the wastegate. As for the Edge modules... Edge Juice gets its reading from the stock MAP sensor. When you hook up the MAP sensor connectors its got connection at that point for boost fooling, MAP sensor reading etc. As for a mechanical gauge there is a 3/4" pipe plug just forward from the MAP sensor to tap for boost pressure...

Yeah... Now for the 24V valve train is a bit different... The oil wells up at the pivot point and floods down to the tip of the rocker arm run down the bridge to the valves.

Well if your pyro is in the exhaust manifold (4,5,6) you know your going to be seeing close to the actual number but I'm sure the cylinder temps are higher who much I'm not sure... You don't want to look at my pyrometer... I can touch the 1,400*F rather easy...

:lmao2:No kidding but... You know the videos are so helpful to the newbies that when they are seen on YouTube or on the site it usual just what they are looking for...

Geez... I'm heading down the road to 200K really quick... (174K @ 21,750 miles a year) Mom's 96 Dodge... (143K @ 10,214 miles per year)

Well I'm shock I figure there would be more voters... Get down to the end though... Come on people get your votes in...

I need to do that now... Need a good washing and another wax job...

Actually the 2 cycle oil sold around here for snowmobiling must make it to at least -40*F. Like my old Artic Cat sitting in the yard it does not mix the oil in the fuel until the combustion chamber. The oil is pump directly from the oil tank to the is 2 tiny nozzles in the intake trac where the oil is mixed with fuel. So the oil has to stay above pour point (solid). So my theory on 2 cycle oil PPD (Pour Point Depressants) is that we all know water freezes at 32*F and we know if you and salt to the water the freeze point falls. But in this case we'll say the 2 cycle oil is like salt water (unknown amount of salt). So if you know you add salt water to the normal water the freeze point is going to be reduced. How much? I don't know... From data sheets for diesel fuel in Idaho the pour point on most diesel fuel around here is like +18*F to about -18*F and the 2 cycle oil from WalMart has a pour point down to -40*F so it has to effect it to some degree...

You can only cram so much air into the engine and then got to get it back out the exhaust. Eventually you get to what know as a choke point where the drive pressure (exhaust) rises faster than the boost pressure (Intake). From what I know the HX35 has a max of 35 PSI and the HY35 is a max of about 30 PSI

Funny part in the last few day our morning temps have fell down to 40-45*F in the morning... (Can you say fall is here!?!?)

Ok... Just lookingh at this a bit closer and thinking about it for a moment you got a radiator and/or thermostat problem. (Doing a bit of assuming...) Now I would start out and look at both side of the radiator and I bet your going to find it all gunked up with oily residue (Cause by the stock crankcase vent) or mud (caused from offroad operation) possibly. The trans can't cool any more than the radiator can so since your slow rolling and not moving air very well the radiator start heating the trans fluid like in your case. So if your radiator looks like this then you not moving air through any of the coolers hence the aux cooler won't do much anyways. So it might be time to look into a bit of inspection. Even mine look like... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1597&d=1282528988 You won't want to come out to Idaho then you could drive up to Seven Devil Summit as a test run. Start at 1,800 feet in Riggins, ID and drive 17 miles up a very steep single lane dirt road for 17 miles till you reach Heavens Gate at 9,000+ feet. Average speed up or down this road is about 10 MPH... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Devils_Mountains

If your in florida or some southern state I would most likely let it slide and just top off with straight coolant... But Idaho I know gets cold so yea its a good idea to re-do it...

I armor-all mine all the time... Looks good after it done but a suggestion if you know you going to be in a dusty environment I highly suggest you don't bother till you done. Reason I say this is I cleaned up my truck and got ready for firewood hauling and BAM! I had a dash of Armor-All mud! :banghead: No fun cleaning that up...

That funny... Taz here has a 1992 Dodge and his fuel shut off solenoid burned up so we took the guts out of it and put the dead shell back on the pump. When we use his truck for firewood hauling we pop the hood and grab the lever and it kill it dead.

I might actually think about opening up the rear of my trans when I do my fluid change... Kind of got me bugged...

Yea that a super old post... But I dump out the old link and pic and got new one in place...