Mopar1973Man

It goes into all gears but if there is a slight hill it will drop lock up shift back to 3rd pull the grade and then hold 3rd and unlocked for a very long time sometimes for 4-5 miles before shifting back to 4th gear and lock up. I was hoping to see one of the trans gurus come on and give me a hand with this. I know its the same type of trans as the diesel just married to a V8 gasser... I'll grab my video camera and shoot a vid of this...

Is the VP44 new?

Hey gang... Reference - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram Ok Mom's 96 trans is acting rather goofy. ATF fluid is clean, don't smell burnt, and it full... But if I to set the cruise at 65 MPH and cruise home up the canyon hit a small hill and it shift out of 4th to 3rd pulls over the hill and then stay in 3rd. But if I give more throttle so it coast for just a second it lock up into 4th no problem. This is rather annoying and I would like to fix this little problem. Any help out there?

Remember the ECM ground, APPS, ECT, MAP, IAT, Cam sensor, etc all comes back to behind the starter... Yes you must pull the starter to gain access to it... As for bad ground I had a friend buy a battery because a vehicle had no light or any power on the dash when the key was on. So I showed up with my DVM and started doing voltage drop test on the cables and wiring finding several above the 0.2 Volt limit. But the greatest one was the master ground cable was 12.65 volts (internal break) sure enough took a jumper cable between the block and the negative post and rig fire right up. The point I'm making is that a lot of times the acid will get into cables and rot them internally till ther break or weak in my case the acid rotted the terminal head back just enough the the copper and the lead terminal no longer made contact... Simple $20 fix with a new cable...

See it works good don't it!

Yeah... The local gov't is looking for all the tax dollars they can find one way or another... So you did right and kept a clean down low profile for yourself...

Actually the best way to actually do all u-joint is with a press. Most of us don't have one but a press is the best way to do it... Double cardian joints are fun to do... I would do a video on that if you could I'm sure someone here will need to change them soon.

Wow! I like it... That is killer setup for you... I hate to say it but horseshoes are not light by no means... But as for the tires yeah a good load range E work be great and be able to air them up tighter in hope to lose a bit of bounce in the ride..

Not bad... But you need more sun on your legs... Seriously... That will be handy for the noobs here on the site. The only thing I add to the inspect is with a whole shaft segment out I would try to twist at each joint back and forth feeling for movement (slop) ans during you pivot movement pay attention to the feeling of movement. Is it loose and gritty or is it firm and smooth...

Rub it in... well I'm glad that was a easy fix... Some days I wish I had a backhoe or some sort of tractor for some of these things... Oh well I can't have everything...

Hmmm... That would mean you would have to create a wiper switch, headlight dimmer switch, cruise controls switches, disable the AirBag system etc... I would love to see how this works out...

Check you vacuum lines for the CAD system. There is a vacuum line that runs back to the transfer case then back forward to the CAD system on the backside of the axle.

Isn't that just a bit expensive? I normally buy 2 cycle oil for $11 bucks a gallon.

No you must phiscally remove the injectors from the engine take then to a shop to be placed in a jig that will measure the pressure the injector pop open at and then the leak down pressure too. Something like this http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlxxJE-1OaU

Still the fact remains the white smoke is caused from retarded timing and the timing is solely controlled by the ECM/VP44. now you say 15-16 typically for pressure... But what is your idle pressure and what is you WOT pressure? These 2 number tell more of a story... Unless you got a damaged injector that is hung open. Pop testing would tell you that...

Not that I remember... I heard of this being a problem on the 12V of the sender halves floating up and down... I know the design was changed on the 24V series to a spring load halves so the bottom half was pressed against the bottom of the tank...

Be my guest... Go head a close this on out and start a fresh one...

Thanx ISX... Now there other half of the information on Ratio... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/failure/failure.htm

Hey ISX... The the pic of the gasket hanging on the sender I notice there is a hell of a rub mark where the screws hold the lower half of the sender. Is that loose by chance? You might consider adjusting a putting a bit of JB weld along the lip edge of the metal to help it out. It might not be a bad idea to give it a Kylon tuneup too on the frame make it last longer... (Suggestion)

Ugh... Check for error codes... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm Check fuel pressure... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/fuel-pressure/fuel-pressure.htm But white smoke is a sign of retarded timing. I'm going to bet money you going to turn up a P0216 error code and also find that your fuel pressure is below 10 PSI most of the time... (Takin' a guess!)

Bump to top and sticky so people will vote for the tech specialist position time is running out...

Ummm... You need a tailpipe... That passenger side tire is awful black in color and so is the axle. Oh yeah you fuel tank is rather dirty looking...

Congrads for making to the end! This is the tough part for anyone to find a place to live and getting a job. Right now the economy is really hurting and it going to be tough. But keep after it and keep sending those resumes... If you need a reference for you job I'd be more that willing to stand up for ya!

Just watch this...

Like Low Sulfur Diesel and Leaded Gasoline it going to become a thing of the past...