Mopar1973Man

Man you just the the youtube junky now... But I got to admit its a awesome write up on tracking air leak points and dealing with them. Hmmmm... I think they make a big line kit for the 12V p-pump... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/12vfs.htm I have no idea what it even looks like...

Dang... We got to get together and goof off together some time...

Well I can give this info too... When I pull the manifold and discharged the high side high on the manifold the oil was clean and only had a slight tint of green too it (Dye pack).

That's the odd part... Typically you would see the low side go down to 35 PSI or so and the high side rise up to the 250 mark or so... But to get both jumping up and down together its like the valves in the compressor is blowing and sucking in both sides...

I think you blew up the mic on the camera...

But like with any additive store bought or homebrew if used wrong they all will create smog or smoke of some kind. Like I know if I add too much 2 cycle oil 100:1 (or lower ratio) I see a tint of grey tint to the exhaust smoke but if you lighten the dose and keep up above 128:1 ratio it seem fine... Now like with Power Service (back in the day) I use to guess at the amount. Well one time I ran a half a bottle just to see if there was improvement or anything. Well even for a stock truck it would smoke slightly. So I can see it being part of the solution but not the full answer... The rest of the answer lies in the hands of the consumer/owner of the vehicle to use said products properly.

This thread is for Flman more so.. But all help is welcomed! But I just had a customer show up with a cycling A/C compressor showing the signs of low freon but got my manifold hook up and... (Here's where its gets weird!) The low side is cycling at 100-120 PSI rising at the same time with the high side at 100-120 PSI. So as the clutch locks it rises together to 120 and cuts out. I just want to verify I'm looking at a dead compressor.

Well it seem you got it Wild & Free you got the Tech specialist position on the site! Congrads...

It was a good rant...

Remember don't over do the stealth plate screw if so it will crack the circuit board its touching distroying the VP44... So becareful about the set screw...

From what I understand that if you don't allow them to check using any means possible they can site you on the spot for $1,000 fine. As for blue fuel its just as illegal as red according to the laws in some states...

Far easier way to do it... Open the hood and open the water drain on the fuel filter and get a sample... As for dipping the actual tank... So after you drop below the 1/2 mark there is no fill in the filler neck and since the rollover valve prevents access to the fuel any deeper you'll have to get a sample from the fuel filter housing.

With the tap done right you should see 12V at the lead with the key ON.

Later on today I grab a video of my Jacobs brake operation and post it up...

Comparing this to... This... Holy cow dude! You managed to fit a hell of a lot of stuff in that van not to meantion the fact you got it all arranged neatly and organized...

So that leads me to believe that you tap was poor to weak all a long and you never got to really see the difference. As for the Edge products none of them can or will re-program the ECM and/or PCM. Then boxes modify the fuel signal to gain the power not reprogram the module.

I love the dealer con game... Yes they do sell the full module for that high price but you can also get just the fuel sender too... Most don't want to tell you that.. As for the drawstraw system depending on model you pick you can out right replace the entire pickup assembly. Like My AirDog came with the old school version.

Only suggestion I can give is check body shops or the dealer...

installed following Pureflow's instructions You might go back to the instruction and check but there is a suggestion of hooking up to the alternator for keeping the connections from attacked from acid I just modified it some in location. i like that idea Like I said just modified a bit... have you used a voltmeter to make sure that is a good ground? Yeap and so far so good... i had mounted my relay, but the metal clip broke off! You might consider replacement of the relay to get it to mount again... The cheap relays I use for my fog lamp tend to last oh about 1-2 year and then are rusted solid because of the fact the always flipped terminal side up and start capture moisture... Hence the problem...

Well at least on my Edge Comp it reverts back to level 1 (40 HP) without the wire tap regardless of level set on the box. Level 1 is basically max timing and fuel that the ECM can deliever without signal modification. (without wire tap). Main level (Wire tap required for all red levels) 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevel 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost. 4. Some Extra fuel at 0 PSI of boost. 5. Full Fuel at 0 PSI of boost.

Yeah but just to ship a small item cost like $15 to $20 bucks... For another $20 to $25 I might as well make a shopping trip out of it and pickup more supplies for the shop and property...

Hmmm... On my Jacobs Brake the arm is on a heavy spring and takes a lot of force to even move. But I would check the source vacuum at the valve and after the valve to see if the valve is directing vacuum properly to the brake. Are your vents working properly in the cab? (A/C, vents, floor, def)

Ok... There is only 2 reason for a dead pedal. [*]APPS sensor failure - P0121, P0122 or P0123 error code is present. [*]VP44 failure - Might be P0216, P1688, P1689, P0251, P0252, P0253 error codes present but with a VP44 failed its not uncommon to see a VP44 fail without error codes. So get a scan tool and check for error codes. (Key trick only work on 2000+ model years)

Something like... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-I-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/dsi.htm Or for the stock intank pump... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/DrawStraw-V-HiFlow-p/dsv.htm Or the one I got now... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/dsii.htm

Simple add it to your fuel for fuel lubricant. You need 128:1 ratio or 1 oz of oil for 1 gallon of fuel. So if you stop and get 15 gallons of fuel you add 15 ozs of oil.