Mopar1973Man

Theory of it... Programmer (Smarty) -> ECM -> External Box (Edge) -> VP44 So the programmer like Smarty alters the timing and fuel tables within the ECM so they are enhanced over stock values. Now the ECM assumes these are normal now. Edge modules sees the "Stock Values" and adds more fuel and timing to this and send this signal to the VP44... But thing to be careful of is not to stock 2 timing products together because over advancement of timing can occur and wipe out your pistons and rings... So like in the example above Smarty is normally ran in a non-timing program and the Edge would add more fuel and timing against the signal. The old school combo I remember was TST and Smarty... TST was a fuel only box and Smarty was a fueling and timing programmer so you got the best of both worlds. This fad slowly kind of faded away for awhile because with the Smarty people were finding certain combonations of boxes and programers where canceling out and other combos did better... --- Update to the previous post... Stacking is like what you run without a AFC and Plate...

Most critical numbers in my mind is... 1. HFRR score of the current fuel meeting the requirements of the VP44. (Lubricity value) 2. The fuel pressure at wide open throttle operation. Bosch requires the fuel lubricity to be of a score less than 400 HFRR for long life of the injection pump. But todays fuel averages right around 520 HFRR. I'm using 2 cycle oil to beef up the fuel lubricity but there are several products that do a really good job of adding lubricity. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm Then since there is only fuel to lubricate the injection pump during its maximum amount of stress at WOT operations should be enough fuel pressure to keep it lubed. Dodge/Cummins suggest 10 PSI as a minimum I suggest a minimum of 14 PSI. Beyond that enjoy your Dodge Cummins Truck...

I kind of wonder how much timing it going to produce? Is it going to be too much or not? I seen several different setup ans listings of setups but I tend to be wary about excessive stacking...

That little pulse is meanless really... Because in some ECM flashes its disabled completely and others run longer. What matters is your cranking fuel presure, idle fuel pressure and WOT fuel pressure...

Tidbit... Orignal article here... http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:YvbbijNC9ycJ:www.stocksy.co.uk/articles/Cars/diesel_particulate_filters_dpfs_and_rising_oil_levels_the_uk_government_demonstrates_the_law_of_unintended_consequences/+%5Cbiodiesel+engine+problems+dpf&cd=4&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us Another article http://www.biodieselmagazine.com/article.jsp?article_id=2290 Another article from my site... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2158-Biofuels-emit-400-percent-more-CO2-than-regular-fuels?highlight=biodiesel And the damaging effects of poor biodiesel http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/93-Bio-Diesel-and-the-effects...?highlight=biodiesel

Interesting... I would love to get one just to play with...

I know for a fact all these miles were done on petroluem oils... I think its Chevron Delo 15W-40 is what he told me... But maybe he'll tell...

So far I found Mobil One and Chevron Delo are both good choices without that odor... Now Shell Rotella (Rosmella) is stinky one...

Makes looking at a failed VP44 injection pump seem cheap comapred to that... I know the CR 5.9L are expensive still at ~$3,000 for a set of stock 6 injectors... Actually a good suggestion is anyone with a 6.7 or 5.9L common rail change to 2-3 micron fuel filters and double up your filters...

P1693 code means there is another code present... So your going to need to keep trying to get the other code to present itsself. As for fuel pressure what is your ilde pressure and WOT pressure?

Well if your looking for lubricity of the fuel then you'll only need B2 to exceed the requirement by a long shot. (221 HFRR) compared to petroluem diesel at (520 HFRR) then Bosch requesting (<400 HFRR). As for the injectors it best ot buy a set of injectors that don't require cores then if you need to diagnose a fuel problem you KNOW that your old stock injectors are just fine...

Got 2 choices like the TSB says from Dodge... 1. Change the brand of oil your using... 2. Suffer though the smell... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/tsb-09-02-00.htm

B20 is the safe limit... I don't suggest use of it in the winter time either being the bio will turn solid and sink to the bottom of the tank typically. There is also something to be aware of is the BioDiesel in any DPF filter system are causing serious engine damage and the reason why is the period during the DPF regen the biodiesel is being pushed past the rind and diluting the engine oil. I've seen several reports now of VW and a few other makers revising oil change internvals to less than typical value to prevent engine damages... The most recent article here is how Biodiesel creates 400% more emssions than normal petroluem diesel...

Thanks ISX I knew your the go to man for this...

Also before my SGII..

If I remember right there is 8 bolts all from the underside of the truck... ISX just got done doing it he could tell you quick...

No that pic is about 3 years old... I was having a issue with my Edge Comp and lack of power come to find out the $140 I spent on both the wiring adapter and the sensor it was a Edge Comp bug... :banghead:

Huh? The adapter cord will plug right into the Edge module... I've got one too...

In a previous thread I found a partial kit that had a price tag of ~$3K just for all the weird parts like injection tubes, brackets, gear housing, pump gear, etc. But this price tag did not include... Injection pump, shut off solenoid, having the injector re-poped for the Ppump, different lift pump for 40-45 PSI, etc... I figure you can cross the $3K mark with all the other toyz...

Well if your going that far you better think about pull the engine out and putting it on engine stand and go from top to bottom.

But being behind the transfer case its hard to create a vacuum without passing wind to create it. (In theory)

May a rear facing scoop for over the fan assemlby to prevent un-needed splashing and loading of the fan... (Thinking out loud...)

Hmmm... Not to sound rude but what do these two have in common? (Head and Crank) I've having hard time following what you got up your sleeve. Could you explain your idea bit more... I would jack the engine slighly (engine hoist) and get the pan out and take a peek...

Cleaning a MAP sensor that failed rarely ever fixes the problem... If there is a code present most times it requires replacement... But what I'm digging for is to find out is it the MAP sensor or is it the Edge Module...