Mopar1973Man

Yea the 1/2" pipe plug just forward of the IAT I pulled that first time for my boost gauge and got a green bath... Then learned the 3/4" pipe plug is the boost port which is forward of the MAP sensor.

No it kind of hard to see cool temp reading when the IAT sensor is surronded by coolant passages... As for my air filter the filter minder isn't moving... Yes I tested it and it still works...

I know this a is a 12V thread but I would like to share my findings too...

Like all the previous Cummins models... 12V and 24V engines both were detuned with a bit retarded timing... Then some models had cat's, some models had EGR valves, then like read over some older threads I guess the cam is ground in such a way to hold a bit of exhaust gases.

I do too.. But this pic was a snag and paste from another site...

According to my book they are all the same... 5.9L (360") 6-Cyl. Turbo Diesel 24-Valve & High Output EFI AIH, TWC, CB, MIL, AIH-TS, CB-VC AIH Air Intake Heaters TWC Three-Way Catalytic Converter CB Crankcase Breather MIL Malfunction Indicator Light AIH-TS AIH Temperature Sensor CB-VC CB Vapor Canister I do know for the 2002 there is over 44 different ECM produced for my truck so its really possible the software is the biggest issue!

Right on! I'm going to stay on the ground though... I don't mind watching but I'm affraid of heights!

If it separated brake and turns lights then you need a combine box for that... I had the same problem with my Honda Goldwing and trailer wiring... http://www.ontheball.com/taillight_convert.htm

Just to show ya... I'm using my Mom's 1996 as a test subject...

Ummm... That isn't valid... That appears to be J1850 (Network type) and VPW (Communication type) Little more info... http://www.elmelectronics.com/DSheets/ELM322DS.pdf You might try the key trick and count the flashes on the check engine light. All codes are double digit. So a typical end of list is a 55 code.. 5 flashes - short pause - 5 flashes - long pause... (Demo of what it looks like) As for power issues... Check the fuses... While your checking the fuses make sure you using a test light or DVM because I've seen fuses the haven't blown but have cracked. So cold it might work fine but after some load then it quits...

Nothing new... Everytime I lauch hard from a dead stop at 3/8 or less I see the same thing... Needle valve isn't the cause... It might be the fact with the heat and slooshing of the fuel it might build a bit of pressure in the tank swelling the tank slightly. Then increasing the gap on the draw straw... Just a guess...

Suppose to work with all OBDII vehicles... But being Dodge Cummins with twin computers make it rather tough on the SGII I'm sure there is the same limitations with Ultra Gauge... But 2 things I don't see UltaGuage having... 1. Being able to send data to the OBDII port 2. Being able to program your own gauge from the Mode 6 list.

I run standard old petroluem based oils (Chevron Delo, Shell Rotella, etc) and change every 10K miles with a bypass filter changed at about 2.5K or 3K miles... TP roll is cheap...

Now I just got done making the 97 model year book now... (Whew!) More to come!

EDIT: PM ISX for diagram Hey Gang... I got the 1997 Dodge Cummins full color wiring diagram finally compiled for you guys and gals. 1997-Dodge-Cummins-Wiring-Diagrams.pdf Enjoy...

Simple pull the IAT plug and insert a 56K ohm resistor in the plug. The engine must be cold... Then start the truck and in about 2 minutes of idling it should pop up with 3 cylinder high idle... If not in 5 minutes then the flash is no good...

Here is a older thread that will help... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2109-ECM-Outlet?highlight=outlet ECM Outlet 1-248-565-8308 http://www.ecmoutlet.com/dodge_ecm.html

Here you go gang! I compiled a full wiring diagram PDF file for you to all enjoy for your 2002 Dodge Trucks. This is a heck of alot easier to read compared to the Dodge FSM manual that is just good old black and white. Go here to get it! https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/

Take you filter minder out and suck on the filter minder... You'll find the filter minder is REALLY sensitive... So as long as the filter minder isn't moving then you know you good for the air filter your using... This applies to ALL filter setups... So you can spend $200 bucks on a air filter setup and not change much...

IAT temp on average will float about +30*F to +40*F over outside temp... Unless you sitting and idling then it might be even higher yet... As for the MAP sensor that should respond instantly to boost...

Yeap... That is the whole problem so since the market accepts injector cleaner, cetane booster, and anti-gel as the general norm then for anyone to think outside the box would be considered risky!

I should add that to the download area if I haven't but yeah it points out a lot of good information mostly the spped factor is the big one...

Correct... You get to vote 1 time but during your 1 one vote you can select multiple entries...

Yeap... Wood heat is the main source here! Now here is my fire place in the living room. But the only time this is used on really cold winter nights that are around 0*F we will close of all the un-needed room like the bedrooms etc and only heat the main living quarters. You also see my Big Buddy heater which we use for killing the chill mornings where a fire is too much heat. The main wood stove. The puppy is a custom made "Stove that Jack built" this thing is fan forced heat and will roast you out of the house.

If your closer I would gladly come down with my 1,000 foot spool and run all the cable you wanted... The other half of the mess too is to make sure that verything is tuned properly for the network. With Vista and Win7 most of it is automatic but XP requires tuning to get the most from it...