Mopar1973Man

Hmmm. The only reason I know that a most shop have problem accessing the ABS module is the fact that when mine gave up and tossed the light I had two shop try and neither one could access the CAB module and verify it. The 3rd one was a Dodge dealer and the broke out the DRBIII tool and got it first shot. Thankful it wasn't my dime for all this... More than likely the cruise switches in the wheel are sticky or shorted? WARNING: Before doing any work on the steering wheel or clockspring disconnect the batteries for at least 10-15 minutes... This will disable the AirBag's and keep it from going off on you.

Typically in my truck Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors hauling 2 cords of firewood I vary from 193*F to 197*F. You might read my thread... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2241-Radiator-cleaning...

The only thing I know of that can test wheel speed sensors is a Dodge DRBIII scantool... But a simple way to figure it out... [*]If the speedometer is NOT working correctly the rear sensor is to blame. [*]If the speedometer is working then the front 2 sensor should be changed as a set. You'll find if you replace 1 front sensor and not the other the problem might persist. Reason being the other sensor is most likely wore out too so the new sensor is showing a different value from the good old one hence ABS still throws a error. Been down this road... CAB unit likes to see only matching speeds from all 3 sensors when there is a variation from the group the the BRAKE and ABS light is thrown.

It is a great looking truck... Mine once looked like that long ago...

Another way to measure it is voltage drop... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/voltage-drop/voltage-drop.htm Anything over 0.2 volts is not a good connection.

4 PSI... That's way too low... Once you drop below the 10 PSI mark you lost your cooling and lubrication for the VP44. Something to consider back in my days of running stock pump they do keep up with demands. I nevery dropped below 10 PSI with stock pump and stock plumbing at WOT all the way to 85 MPH...

... Or maybe a shot to find one here... http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/

Double check the relay in the PDC box it might have a bad contact and if you swap with a like the horn it might fix the problem. Just means that you need to replace the relay...

Pics? I need to get a new set for my truck soon the stock floor mats are well rather wore out and tattered...

Hmmmm... I would contact a local tire shop and see what they got in that size but in a Load Range D or E. That would allow you to increase the tire pressure and gain back the stability of the trailer. I know what your talking about... My little homebrew trailer has 31 x 10.50 R15 Load Range C the trailer is really sloppy and rocky when load with a cord a firewood. (~2,000 pound). Next set of tires I'm going to see about getting at least a Load Range D...

Something just doesn't strike me as right... [*]Is the low pressure fuel system primed at the entrance of the VP44? [*]Is there enough flow and pressure from the low side? Then typically you just crack 1,3, and 4 and crank till you see fuel spray or it attempts to start tighten the lines and start the engine... [*]Is the VP44 getting good +12V at the socket? (Controlled by the fuel pump relay) [*]Are you sure the ground is good behind the starter? The only thing I can thing of that might go wrong with the pump is... [*]Did you use the new key that came with the pump? [*]Is the arrow on the key pointing towards the pump? [*]Is the key number the same as on the pump?

It goes into all gears but if there is a slight hill it will drop lock up shift back to 3rd pull the grade and then hold 3rd and unlocked for a very long time sometimes for 4-5 miles before shifting back to 4th gear and lock up. I was hoping to see one of the trans gurus come on and give me a hand with this. I know its the same type of trans as the diesel just married to a V8 gasser... I'll grab my video camera and shoot a vid of this...

Is the VP44 new?

Hey gang... Reference - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2123-Mopar1973Man-1996-Dodge-Ram Ok Mom's 96 trans is acting rather goofy. ATF fluid is clean, don't smell burnt, and it full... But if I to set the cruise at 65 MPH and cruise home up the canyon hit a small hill and it shift out of 4th to 3rd pulls over the hill and then stay in 3rd. But if I give more throttle so it coast for just a second it lock up into 4th no problem. This is rather annoying and I would like to fix this little problem. Any help out there?

Remember the ECM ground, APPS, ECT, MAP, IAT, Cam sensor, etc all comes back to behind the starter... Yes you must pull the starter to gain access to it... As for bad ground I had a friend buy a battery because a vehicle had no light or any power on the dash when the key was on. So I showed up with my DVM and started doing voltage drop test on the cables and wiring finding several above the 0.2 Volt limit. But the greatest one was the master ground cable was 12.65 volts (internal break) sure enough took a jumper cable between the block and the negative post and rig fire right up. The point I'm making is that a lot of times the acid will get into cables and rot them internally till ther break or weak in my case the acid rotted the terminal head back just enough the the copper and the lead terminal no longer made contact... Simple $20 fix with a new cable...

See it works good don't it!

Yeah... The local gov't is looking for all the tax dollars they can find one way or another... So you did right and kept a clean down low profile for yourself...

Actually the best way to actually do all u-joint is with a press. Most of us don't have one but a press is the best way to do it... Double cardian joints are fun to do... I would do a video on that if you could I'm sure someone here will need to change them soon.

Wow! I like it... That is killer setup for you... I hate to say it but horseshoes are not light by no means... But as for the tires yeah a good load range E work be great and be able to air them up tighter in hope to lose a bit of bounce in the ride..

Not bad... But you need more sun on your legs... Seriously... That will be handy for the noobs here on the site. The only thing I add to the inspect is with a whole shaft segment out I would try to twist at each joint back and forth feeling for movement (slop) ans during you pivot movement pay attention to the feeling of movement. Is it loose and gritty or is it firm and smooth...

Rub it in... well I'm glad that was a easy fix... Some days I wish I had a backhoe or some sort of tractor for some of these things... Oh well I can't have everything...

Hmmm... That would mean you would have to create a wiper switch, headlight dimmer switch, cruise controls switches, disable the AirBag system etc... I would love to see how this works out...

Check you vacuum lines for the CAD system. There is a vacuum line that runs back to the transfer case then back forward to the CAD system on the backside of the axle.

Isn't that just a bit expensive? I normally buy 2 cycle oil for $11 bucks a gallon.

No you must phiscally remove the injectors from the engine take then to a shop to be placed in a jig that will measure the pressure the injector pop open at and then the leak down pressure too. Something like this http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlxxJE-1OaU