Mopar1973Man

Well since you didn't fill out you info in you profile I've got no idea where your at nor state...so as for the straight piping... I know here in Idaho you can do it and not get into much trouble. I've been straight now for about 4 years and never had any problems with noise. Maybe because I don't go racing averything on the highway... And maybe because I'm part of the local fire dept... LOL But straight piped exhaust will reduce your exhaust temp considerably... 4" will do even more reduction than straight 3"...Edge Comp doesn't require it but it is suggested for performance...(Side notes...)As for screen savers I would ditch it personally it a waste of memory and CPU... The software is always loaded and waiting to run at the time selected. Inormally use the power feature to shut the moniotr completely down... This doesn't require any memory nor does it require CPU time... Actually if setup right the computer can gain some HP because the CPU doesn't have to send data to the bideo and keep drawing the screen so this in turn is a GAIN... ;)

How much air do you have in them???I just for kicks and giggles I cranked mine up to 70 in the front and 65 in the rear to harden them up more... Usually a tire gets softer with heat... And more solid in the cold... :rolleyes

Ask all the questions you want... If I can't answer it I'm sure I can find some that can... :thumbsup

We got a older Chevy Diesel 6.5L and it got the crankcase vent hooked right at the turbo charger... Oh what a mess... I got to get a pic of this... It got oil and goop all over the turbo compressor... There is much you can do for it since it got some blow by issues... :confused:

OMG! You actually going back through the 2 cycle oil historic archives!!! LOL Oh the pain of the battles...Oh oh! LOL

Dang... comparing against my caliper those things are nasty looking... Wow! :wow I would opt for rebuilt caliper after looking at that myself I'm sure you might have a few froze pistons in these things... Not to mention the lost and broken bolt in the one you got the pic of... The reman calipers at NAPA was suppose be around $120 bucks... Or am I just got the gift of gab... :confused:

Now lets see what happen to the MPG numbers... :rolleyes I pulled my Coopers STT off and put the ol' Stock Michellins (265/75 R16) back on... But I rather say my good tires for the winter time and the dip snow that burn up a $1300 set of tires on the road... Beer... Just call it what it is... LOL

If so then I would worry to much about the testing... Basically the testing is how black or dark you smoke is. So if your only a 2% opacity I wouldn't worry at all... Kind of like how they rate window tint but backwards... LOL

I've heard evrything from -1 to +2 MPG changes... Thats all...I'm doing better with my Edge Comp right now at 21.7 to 23.3 MPG... LOL

Geez... I'm glad I never got into Ford's or Chevy's much... :smart

I agree with REFLancer... It on the driver side of gear case in front. You just need to move the wiring to see it... ;)

So if they are only testing for opacity of the smoke then 2 cycle oil should be a problem. As for my truck in stock form design smoke any differently with or without 2 cycle oil...Or are they testing for other things?

Ok... First thing is to get a 6 sided socket that fits good on the bleeder screws. Hold the ratchet in place and whack the ratchet handle to loosen it. Normally this is enough to get it loose... PB blaster, WD-40, or similar won't hurt. But I have a feeling your in the same boat I was you going to have to pull the calipers off and open up the pisons and clean the piston cylinders out. Check for rust and check for seal damage... If you deside to use heat make sure you get the piston and seal out of the calipers before heating it up... Don't want to damage the pistons or seals. viewtopic.php?f=45&t=247 Also before I forget when (and if) you pull the calipers apart check you pistons for binding. It really simple. Take all the seals out (weather seal and main seal) then clean the caliper good (I used soap and water then compressed air dried.) The pistons should drop in there holes without PUSHING at all. It you got to push it in the piston NEED to be replaced. If there is rust in the cylinders you can use a hone stone to polish out a little bit but if its bad you'll have to replace your caliper ($120 replace). I've been changing my brake fluid as recommend by the dealer at every 30K miles. Which happens to be roughly once a year... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/maintenance/maintenance.htm Second off once you do get them loosen and bled you want to snug them not super tighten them... Overtighten the bleeder screws will damage the ends of the screws and the seats in the calipers it will cause them to leak. After that get some vinyl tubing that will fit over the bleeder screews. Cut it about 1" long then heat the tubing with a cigarette lighter and then quick squeeze the end of the tube with pilers to seal shut the tubing. Now you got new bleeder caps to keep the water and mud out of the screws... This will prevent the screws from rusting again! Seals and pistons are a dealer only part but there cheap. Seals are like 3 bucks and a piston is $21 bucks. Well I better stop... LOL

Interesting... I know that most of the 2nd Gen 24V trucks I drove seem to get brakes rather quickly in the pedal. Under heavy braking usually you can lightly feel the ABS pump kick in. The only time I really feel the ABS pump is on loose ground or icy roads. As for grinding noises arn't good... Is it the actual rotors making the noise or the ABS pump? You might want to bleed some fluid out and see if there is debris in the fluid or dark colored. If its dark colored dump it, flush the system, and reload it. Bleeding setup Wasted brake fluid... 8|

Actually I'm getting to old to remeber... I'm getting sometimers... Some times I remember and sometimes I don't... LOL

Well Happy B-Day to you NukleusX... :thumbsup You made it to 24 Years old... Dang... I wish... I'm heading for 38... UGH! :wow

Make sure your MTU and RWIN is set right... There is another setting for NTU discovery that might play hell on it... Tweak tool... http://www.dslreports.com/drtcp Testing site... http://www.dslreports.com/tools

It's all good... LOL But at least the information is there! :thumbsup

Funny I got that same link above... LOL

Read this article... http://biodieselmagazine.com/article.js ... &q=&page=1 Basically all 2007+ with DPF now that use BIO Diesel take the risk of engine damage... Biodiesel is losing it qualities! :wow

Helps out doesn't it...I'm glad the information is extending the the fuel and getting it to go farther for you... :thumbsup

Ok... Here we go... I done two large trip now using cruise control and still keeping 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil in the fuel... 1. Trip to Postfalls, Idaho. I filled up in Lewiston, ID and travel to postfalls, ID then 4 Lakes, WA then Coeur D'Alene, ID and back to Lewiston, ID. The total distance was 385 miles and 1/2 Tank used... Cruise set to no highier than 55 MPH the whole trip. Here are the results... http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... Postfalls/ 2. Trip to Weiser, ID to pickup fire truck part from a military shop. Since the SRRFD was paying for my fuel I figured I would run 65 MPH and see the difference in fuel milage. Rather shocking... http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r123 ... iser%2065/ Cost of Diesel = $4.449 65 MPH = 18.6 MPG 55 MPH = 21.7 MPG 65 MPH = 0.24 Cents per mile 55 MPH = 0.21 Cents per mile 65 MPH = 651 Miles Total Travel 55 MPH = 760 Miles Total Travel Difference = 109 Miles

Here you go gang I got a picture of the barrel for the stoddard solvent... Stoddard Solvent... Close up of the label and warning... Locally available at any NAPA auto parts store... Sold for part washers... 8|

Add-on information... For filters - fleetguard replacement #'s are FF5613 fuelFS19768 waterBalwin FiltersFF-100-3 FuelWS-80 Water

(Copied from TDG.com) Tools needed; 1/4 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch) 3/8 drive rachet and exstension (3-6 inch) 1/4 or 3/8 drive Torque wrench, must have a range of 18-216 inch pounds, the most important # is 89 inch pounds 15, 8, and 10mm sockets 3/4 or 19mm line wrench or equivelant (see photo) http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2207&d=1134982876 8mm wrench Needlenose pliers Small flatbladed screwdriver Latex or Nitrile gloves Something to stand on to gain easy access to engine compartment Shop towels However much beer you will drink in 2 hours time To get started, make certain that you can reach the entire engine as comfortably as possible, either stand on something, sit on the radiator (difficult for us fatboys) or let the air out of your front tires. Disconnect the battery cables (or not, I do for safety) and the charge air inlet tube. Using a shop rag clean the underside of the body where it hangs over the motor, you can remove the insulation if you want, it is a CS to get back on. Do this to keep dirt and trash out of the motor with the valve cover removed. Drink a beer and congragulate yourself on a job well done to this point. Using the 10mm socket loosen all the valve cover bolts to the point they will move freely. Pick it up as high as you can and work it out towards the passenger side bending the heater hose out of the way. Make certain the gasket either stays on the head or comes with it. Remove the charge air inlet and APPS housing (Where the inlet pipe goes in and where the throttle cables go to, see picture). Take the APPS and move it out of the way, do not unplug it unless needed (you shouldn't). When removing the charge air inlet be careful of how the intake air heater wires come off and the gaskets on the inlet, you will reuse them all. Use a 15mm for this. Loosen all injector line clamps and either remove them from the vehicle OR just get them all loose enough that they are not holding anything. 8mm socket and wrench will be used for this. Drink a beer, cuss engineer who put the clamps where they did Once all line clamps are loose, loosen all injector tubes at the head using the line wrench. Once they are loosened you should be able to turn them with your hand if you keep the pressure off of them. Remove one (1) bolt from the valve cover, just push on it from the bottom side and it will pop out. Remove and install injectors one at a time to keep from getting crossed up unless you are confident of no interuptions and keeping everything straight. Drink a glass of water, no beer until you are buttoning up Don gloves or keep wads of shop towels handy, you are about to get VERY oil covered hands. Start removal of an injector by removing the forward clamp bolt, YOU WILL ONLY REMOVE ONE BOLT, it is the "easy to get to one" towards the front. Remove this bolt and pull/pick up on the clamp block to get it out. Thread the bolt removed from the valve cover into the top of the injector, using the small screwdriver, pry the injector tube nut outwards from the head by catching the threads and prying out wards. Not much, about 1/8 of an inch or so. Use the needlenose pliers to grab the valve cover bolt and pry off of a rocker arm to pop the injector out of its hole. If the injector will not come out easily remove the injector tube from the head or pry it out further to clear the injector. Make certain the copper sealing washer comes out with the old injector, if it does not take a screwdriver that will fit into the washer and use it to remove said washer from the head. Once the old injector is out reverse order for reinstall. Make sure to line up the fuel inlet on the injector with the injector tube, if the injector tube retaining nut does not start easily you do not have then lined up properly. It is sometimes possible to wiggle the injector from side to side with pliers to get it to seat. Reinstall clamp block and bolt, tighten bolt to 89 Inch Pounds (NOT FOOT POUNDS!!!!! YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT). Repeat this 5 more times and you are done. It will work on all of them, #5&6 are a stone cold one to get to, use a short screwdriver, be careful not to damage the threads. Couple of notes, change gloves or wipe hands often, makes it a lot easier, keep the dirt out of the motor, be careful what you grab from where. Drink a beer, you just by gump earned it with #'s 5 & 6 Reassemble in reverse order, go ahead and tighten down all injector tube nuts to 28ftlbs, once you have everything back together you will loosen a couple of them again, but only a couple. The valve cover bolts are tightened to 18 INCH pounds When reinstalling the APPS assembly tighten the bolts to 105 INCH pounds The Charge air inlet bolts are torqued to 18 Foot punds (216 inch pounds) The charge air clamps are torqued to 100 INCH pounds Once everything is put back together you are ready to bleed lines and fire up, loosen the easy to get to lines, two are enough, three is much preferable. Crank the motor until you have fuel at the lines pretty good, if you have a buddy helping tell him to keep fingers away form there to "feel" for the fuel, he/she could loose them, VERY high pressure. Once you have the injector lines bled retighten them. When you crank the truck again it will run like snot, let the oil pressure come up and GENTLY rev the engine to around 1500 RPM and hold it there until it smooths out, then gently decrease back to idle. Let the truck idle for a bit to make certain there are no leaks or problems. Finish your beer, there are sober kids in India On the pics below, in one I am pointing to the APPS (bottom of pic) and the charge air inlet (top of pic). The two wrenches in my hand serve the same purpose, one is made from a 12 point el cheapo, you guess on the other. On the homemade one, I like it better than the Snap-on for the following reasons, it will grab in more places (12 point vs 6 point), and thinner. I dislike it for the following reasons, more likely to slip from spreading out, be careful with it if you make one, and it is more likely to slip in general (12 point vs 6 point). Enjoy ya'll, and PM me with any questions you might have, I will endeavor to answer them is possible. I DO NOT know everything about these trucks by a long shot, but like the song goes "I know a little bout it"