Mopar1973Man

(Copied From TDG.com) For the 89-93's (Bosch rotary pump)there's a screw behind a tin access cover about the size of a nickel. It takes a 1/2"(13mm) to break the jamb nut loose, then take the screw out. It'll have a metal band welded on it that needs to come off. Once that's off you can run the jamb nut farther out(towards the outside of the pump, about 2 turns). Then put it back in and test, some smoke more than others(especially with Lucas POD injectors!). The pre boost power adjustment is under a cover that looks like a vacuum diaphragm, and it is one. It has a torx bit with a jamb nut. Loosen the torx for more low end & tighten for higher. The governor spring is different than in the later 12 valves, and is not adjustable. The other adjustment is to rotate the diaphram, under the top cover with 4 screws. Use the picture at right as reference. Turn the diaphram clockwise 90-120 degrees, this is like sliding the fuel plate on a 94-98. Now put it back in & test. The best bang for the buck, is to get a gov spring, most of the time they are under $20, and let it rev up to 3200 rpm. If you plan on a gov spring, hold off on doing the fuel screw shown above, it needs to be close to stock setting. Might take a look over here for more information... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/1stgen/inc-pump/inc-pump.htm

(Copied fro TDG.com) Ok guys and gals. After doing some researching and studying old pics I had, I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the PCM quits working. Symptoms are either no charge or overcharge, however they are designed to fail in a no charge state. After insuring your alternator, batteries, and crank sensor are all good you can then use this diagram and save yourself about $800 on a new PCM. The alternator is a open field external regulated type. There fore it makes it easy to do this mod. What you will need is a voltage regulator from an 89' or older Dodge/Chrysler vehicle, a plug with harness, several pieces of wire, three barrel crimp connectors, two small ring and one large ring connectors, crimp tool, black tape, cordless drill, 2 self tapping sheet metal screws. First you will need to find a secure place on the fender well or firewall to mount the voltage regulator. Once a location is selected make sure to Sand the area down to bare metal where the screws you use to mount the regulator will make a good ground. Then on the back of the alternator you need to take the two small nuts off holding the black plastic formed block on. Once the block is removed, tape it up so as it can not touch any metal and cause a short. Then take the two small ring connectors that will fit the studs on the back of the alternator and crimp them onto two lengths of wire that will reach from the alternator to the voltage regulator. After crimping the connectors onto the wires, connect one each on the back of the alternator and tighten the nuts back up. Then route the wires from the alternator back to the voltage regulator. Next use your large ring connector and crimp it onto a piece of wire that will reach from your battery to the regulator. Route the wire from the battery to regulator, but DO NOT hook it up to the battery at this time. Now take one of the wires from the alternator and the wire from the battery and twist them together, then crimp them into one end of the barrel connector. Then take the other end of the barrel connector and crimp it onto the wire from the regulator plug that goes to the TOP post on the regulator. This is very important, it must be the wire going to the TOP post or you will pop the regulator. Then take the remaining wire from the plug and the alternator and crimp them together using the other barrel connector. Now go back and hook the wire onto your battery post. Start your truck and verify that is charging. Put your tools away and go buy yourself another mod since you just saved $800 from not buying a new PCM.

(Copied From TDG.com) These are the steps we went though to put the injector nozzles in the injectors. I will make this simple and to the point. It is the easiest. Might as well save the money from complete injectors and assemble the nozzles your self and then put the money you saved into something else for your truck. Just an idea. Good luck. -Tools needed: 3/8" inchpound torque wrench, screw driver, 15 mm deep socket, vise, 2 small pieces of flat wood (3" long x 1" tall), clean rags, cup of diesel, and toothbrush. -First I took a buddies complete injectors that he had removed from his 24 valve the previous week. -I put one injector inbetween the two pieces of wood and sandwiched it in the vise. Nozzle facing up. It has to be pretty tite or it will just turn in the vise. You use the wood as a cushion for the injector you dont want to mess it up. -I then used the screw driver underneath the injector in the slot of the injector to wedge it self up against the vise to keep it from rotating while untorqueing and then later retorqueing. Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it: -I untorqued the injector housing off the injector and it came off w/ 350 inch pounds of torque. I experianced this on 4 of the injectors so that is what I retorqued all of them to when reassembling. Injector housing untorqued at 350 inch pounds: When you take the nozzle housing off the injector body DO NOT TAKE ANYTHING ELSE OFF THE INJECTOR LEAVE IT AS IT IS!!!!!! -Once the housing came off the injector I set the needle aside and tapped the housing on the flat part of the vise. Let inertia cause the nozzle to come out. That way you don't mess up the stock nozzles. -DO NOT HIT THE NOZZLE TIP!!!! This way you will not mess up the brass washer on the nozzle side or the nozzle it self. Do not pry on the brass washer!!!! You need to reuse it. -Once loose, you can wiggle the brass washer off w/ your hands and remove the nozzle from the housing. Injector housing tap to get the nozzle to fall out: -Here it is all laid out. Nozzle, Nozzle housing, brass washer all apart: -Clean the nozzle housing out and the brass washer off with the diesel fuel you have in the jar using the tooth brush. -Once done cleaning I reassembled it. -I found it was easiest to put the needle back on the injector in the vise. -Then the new nozzle on that. Line up the two holes at the base of the nozzle with the 2 studs sticking out of the part on the injector. It only fits one way. They are offset. Do not force down. -Put the housing over all that to hold it all together and tighten it all back together. I tightened mine to the 350 inchpounds that they untorqued at.(I am not sure if this is correct but that is what mine were torqued at so I just put them back to what it was.) -Put the brass washer back on. Injector in Vise with screwdriver to hold it: -Remove from vise and wood and you are all done swapping a nozzle. -Wrap then up to keep them clean until you are putting them in your truck. -It is recomended to have the injectors all pop tested but the place I got my nozzles from (Go Fast Engineering) said that they have had great luck with the Edge nozzles and never have problems with them. I would probably be fine just putting it all together. - I ended up putting the injectors in without pop testing and they worked fine. Now my tranny really hates me and the EGT jump up way faster. WOOOO HOOOO!!!!!!!

Check out this article... http://www.salon.com/tech/htww/2008/04/ ... index.html

Right on Dorkweed...Yeah I know that front end parts are high priced but if done right its worth every nickle paid on it... So far I've been extremely lucky and not had to replace any front end parts yet except for my front driveshaft u-joints... But like anything it will wear out soon enough... :rolleyes Its funny you metion the Ford you got as a loaner... I'm surprised that it did so poorly in MPG and performance... :wow

Between changing my tires back to stock Michellins (265/75 R16) and adding the AirDog 150 I've now bumped my MPG from 18-19 to... Not bad at all... It even got more power (seat -o- pant dyno)... I should of check with my ScanGauge II but I forgot to... (D'Oh!) :rolleyes

My question is how do you remove the drum without special tooling... Back the shoe adjustment and it should slide off... If the drum should get tighter (or won't move) you know you going the wrong way... Last trick... Jack up the truck and put it on block in the rear and block the front axle from roling good... Then pull the tires off. Then take the lug nuts and thread them back on. Not tight mind you... Then start the truck and put in to a forward gear. Get a bit of speed and then mash on the brakes... The rear drums should pop loose. But the lugs will keep it from flying... I don't like this method but it does work if done right... Becareful!

Use a BIG 3 jaw puller and then whacked it with a BFH. They were stuck on very tight. I don't know a better way than that. Hopefully with replacing the joints with greasable ones they won't need replaced for a long time. Or... Loosen the 4 bolts the thread a couple in part way and put and socket and extention on them and turn the wheel left or right and jam the extention into the axle and it should push them out......do each side a bit at a time and be sure to anti sieze the hub when replacing

Well I would like to personally thank GOS Performance for providing me with a quality product. It took me a little over 3 hours to get it all installed to my specs that I wanted. I did some changes during my install to hopefully protect the pump and filter from damages this summer when I'm out cutting firewood. The when the box showed up from the "Brown Man" I was kind of shock to see how big the box was. I didn't relize that is came with all new fuel ine, fittings, electrical, etc. Right On! Instructions are really easy to understand. Once I got the pump all hooked up I was expecting this loud pump to buzz on the frame below. I turned the key and didn't hear nothing! UH OH! So I bumped the starter and listened. Wow! It really quiet running pump... Got it fire up (without priming!) and I was seeing 17-18 PSI Wow! This truck has never seen over 14-15 PSI in its life till now! Even stomped on the throttle I never got below 15 PSI. I know why too. I still got to put in the draw straw kit. I scarficed my old Vulcan Big Line Kit to make a pickup line temporary till I get back from my trip I got to make next week... I'm going to head out and grab my camera from the shop and post a few pics... Well here we are... Here is the old little carter Campaign pump (4090046) from Cummins... (Looking a bit sad and tried...) Then there is the installed AirDog 150... (Mount towards the transfer case to allow the skid plate to protect the filters for being hit.) With a solid 16.5 PSI shown on the gauge! I've seen up to 18 PSI now... Then the rest is in my write up on my BOMB listing now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/airdog-150/airdog-150.htm

Kind of like me...I'm going to have to give up my 1973 Dodge Charger soon... I just don't have the money to spend on getting the beast back in working order. Basically needs to be completely tore down and re-assembled. The engine and transmission need a bit of tuning but still in good shape... :thumbsup Then my Mom has a 1976 Dodge Magnum XE. This car was built for only 2 years and the quit the production on it. It got a killer 318 with a 2 BBL holly carb. Great gas mileage. Like 18-20 MPG when we parked it 10-12 years ago. It been kept in the garage all this time and just sits there... Once in awhile I steal a battery and get it fired up and roll it for a few miles and park it again for a long slumber... But the interior is like factory fresh yet! :wow In either case... I've got enough to take care of between both 1996 Dodge RAM gasser and my 2002 Dodge Cummins... Both of these truck get better MPGs than the old cars... B)

Maybe that's why the 400 CID in my 73 bit the bullet and then a 383 CID jump in its place! LOL Then it got married to 727 Transmisiion to make move quick! :wow

Did you find it yet??? If not I can shoot a pic of mine to give you a clue... LOL

You might look in the back of the owner manual it should be listed for what size of fuel tank you got... If you don't have the owner manual for your truck you could connect a Dodge dealer with your VIN number and they could tell you everything about the truck... :thumbsup PS: you might want to fill out you signature it will help us out and figuring out what you have for a truck... :thumbsup

Sometime you got to buttheads a bit to make a great debate happen... :thumbsup But I got to admit you must work to get these kind of numbers. Like you said you don't use the cruise to think ahead a bit. Well like myself I dropped another 5 MPH from my cruise during the winding canyons so I wouldn't have to cancel / resume all the time... A big part is trying to keep the throttle even... :D

WELCOME ABOARD! I'm not certain but I'm sure someone will chime in with a bit more information... I the side of the gear case should be a steel tag with HP/TQ specs...(At least on 1st and 2nd Gen's)

Well here you go Dorkweed... I did a trip down to Council, ID which is about 50 miles of rolling hills and set the cruise for 45-55 MPH... This is the results I got for the 50 mile trip back from Council, ID to home...

Actually no...I'm got that kind of setup heading to new Meadows, ID I got rolling hills... At 65 MPH I'm down to 5-6 MPG climbing and get only 15-16 coming over the back side. But if I drop my speed to 55 MPH I'm at 9-10 MPG climbing the hill and then 22-24 MPG on the back side... This is with cruise set...As for boost its much highier climbing at 65 MPH (15-17 PSI) than at 55 MPH (10-12 PSI)... Pyro isw even higher at 65 MPH at 1000*F compared to 900*F at 55 MPH...I might have to make it a game some how... :confused:

Nope... But as conversation come anf go I tend to dig up mmy tidbit from other sites... LOL So you guys got to post more and I respond to it... I dig up my tidbits more...

It seems that most products have some sort of solvent in them... But how much??? As seen with MMO it must be quite high amount of mineral spirits/stoddard solvent because of the extremely high HFRR score it got...

My best I can pull is roughlt 600-650 Miles on a tank of fuel right now... 35 Gallons x 17 MPG = 595 Miles Total Or on a good day... 35 Gallons x 19 MPG = 665 Miles total These are real numbers... I always love to see guys quoting 22-23 MPG traveling at 70 MPH... That when I pull out the BS flag for them... There is NO WAY to do it... 35 Gallons x 22 MPG = 770 Miles Total It just not happening... I've done another voting on a site to see the max travel miles on a tank of fuel... After the voting was done even the hot shot's bragging about 22-23 MPG couldn't hit better that about 16-17 MPG! I caught most people in a flat lie at that point... :wow LOL Information purpose... 35 Gallon Tank Total Distance To Empty... (Green is typical MPG for a 24V 2nd Gen) 10 MPG = 350 Miles 11 MPG = 385 Miles 12 MPG = 420 Miles 13 MPG = 445 Miles 14 MPG = 490 Miles 15 MPG = 525 Miles 16 MPG = 560 Miles 17 MPG = 595 Miles 18 MPG = 630 Miles 19 MPG = 665 Miles 20 MPG = 700 Miles 21 MPG = 735 Miles 22 MPG = 770 Miles 23 MPG = 805 Miles 24 MPG = 840 Miles 25 MPG = 875 Miles 26 MPG = 910 Miles 27 MPG = 945 Miles 28 MPG = 980 Miles

When I went to Council, ID to pick up part for a fire truck my buddy that I work with requested a 5 gallon pail of part solvent. When the part counter man brought out the pail it was clearly marked "Stoddard Solvent" on the side of the pail in bold black lettering. Now knowing all that I know in fuel additives I know there is a few fuel additves with this in it... But remember that this chemical has a few different names... Here is the Wikipedia pages on it... Mineral Spirits http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_spirits Stoddard Solvent http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stoddard_solvent So be aware there is some fuel additives like MMO that include this chemical (solvent) that is nothing more that part washer solvent! :wow Marvel Mystery Oil http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msds ... d04377.htm This explains exactly why MMO ranked so poorly in the HFRR testing done by DieselPlace.com

Here in Idaho the MAX speed for big rigs is 65 MPH... But there is a small handful of locals that are starting to drive quite slow. In a 65 MPH zone we starting to see people willing to drive -10 of whats posted. This is a good start. Like today I know it was all downhill from McCall, ID (5,200 FT) down to home (2,800 Ft) and its a 35 mile trip... But according to my ScanGauge II I was pulling 30 MPG for the trip home... :wow But I know my trip up to McCall, ID I was doing barely 8 MPG. But my average trip for the day was 17.5 MPG... Even will climbing hills... :thumbsup

I don't know what everyone is think these days thinking that traveling faster is going to get them better MPG's... I see comment like this... 65 MPH I get 14.8 MPG and requires 74 HP to push my truck... 55 MPH I get 18 MPG and requires 50 HP to push my truck... Look at 45 MPH I'm well in the 26 MPG bracket... So I highly doubt your statement being true! I just need a mearly 27 HP at 45 MPH... Even look at the pyro it well below 600*F... I wish everyone would slow down there is no need to be running 65-75 MPH... As I shown above there is no prove your getting better MPG at 70 MPH! Can you pull 600-650 miles to a tank in your Cummins??? I CAN! By just slowing down and keepping an eye on the Pyro <600*F... The true SWEET spot is keep your pyro below 600*F and your boost under 5 PSI and 20+ MPG will come to you! This does mean driving slower (50-60 MPH) on average. Cummins wrote a good white paper on MPGs... Cummins Whitepaper http://www.mopar1973man.com//other%20fi ... epaper.pdf This is for a 80K pound truck... But the information is the same just the amount of power to move said load is less... But As shwon by my pics and information in the white paper there is ZERO proof of traveling faster is going to net you a savings... (Copied from the Whitepaper)

Well I got the parts I needed installed... It rather quite easy to rebuild you own calipers on your truck. I think the biggest part is getting the housing cleanup and all the crud offf it. After that its a matter of reasembly. But I did learn that the pistons are of a compsite material of some sort. But what has happen is the piston got crud and brake fluid built up on them. Since I've got a exhaust brake I tend to use it quite a bit and not a lot of my service brake. So Back to the rebuild. But I found if you take some 100 grid sandpaper and lightly sand the pistons again you remove the crud and you can retune the piston to fit the bore again. So Installed new seal for $2 bucks a piece... Here is some pics...