Mopar1973Man

Thanks...

But remember the test results from DieselPlace was using untreated diesel which scored at 636 HFRR then typical pump diesel should score ~520 HFRR typically. But I've got a feeling that when you look at it from a general point of view. You take like my 17 year old Sthl Chainsaw that is running on 50:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil and GASOLINE. It still got 130 PSI of compression. So looking from a general point of view at 50:1 there should be a score of roughly 0 HFRR because there there was a number above zero then my chainsaw should of wore out long ago...

People wonder why the ricers get 30-40 MPG... They got tiny tires and the weight of the tirees are no more than maybe 30 pounds, have little to no rolling resistance, rotational mass is by half. Then even with my 7,900 pound truck on the scale I still touched a high mark of 25.3 MPG... My typical is 21-22 MPG. So if you going to aim for the actual MPG mark and not going to be towing it would be better to change the gears out for 3.55 gears. But if you towing heavy I would leave it alone.

Best man I know that could possibly answer that question would be Wild & Free... Sorry I'm not much of a transmission guy...

I'll talking to CajFlynn on the phone about this and he suggest pulling the Trans Relay temporarily and see if it stall yet. He feels the TQ conv lockup is still occur some how and stalling it. He's running a triple disc TQ Conv and no problems...

128:1 ratio is my current ratio I've been using since Aug 2006 which makes 91K miles since I started using 2 cycle oil. My VP44 is still going with 126K miles. Then topped my MPG out at 25.3 MPG hand calculated. As for the 128:1 ration that make the HFRR score in theory under 400 HFRR which meets and exceeds Bosch suggested fuel HFRR scores... The 200:1 ratio is used for the Common rail engines.

This is one reason I will not modify the stock wiring if all possible. There is a crap load of APPS mods for TQ Conv issues but the funny part is the trans and TQ Conv issues were never there for over 8-9 years now there present. Now people don't look for the reason why it fail or cauing problem they would rather hack up the wiring in a mod to attempt to fix something. Even my High mod doesn't cut or modify the stock wiring I used the right sockets and connectors to adapt to the stock wiring to do my mods so if there is a issue I can unplug the mod and return to stock without chopped wires... If you going to repair a stocking harness I highly suggest all wiring is soldered and shrink tubed... I'm done with my rant... Pet Peeve...

The red sliding lock has to be move to the left (if present). The squeeze and pull.

How about 12.5 cords of firewood... The splitting rig... Heating 2 buildings... There is no other form of heat in their building just wood heat...

Ummm... Disconnected battery, bad grounds, and a few other things can create this issue... As for the APPS sensor the carbon track in it over time will wear out and the resistance value changes. So the calibration gets lost over time then eventually its so far off the APPS and the ECM battle for values and POP... P0121, P0122 or a P0123...

Well I suggested to ISX while he was doing the work for John to put it in Neutral and let it idle for while and then drop it in gear. I guess he tried than and no luck... I was hoping that idling in Neutral would warm the fluid a bit and help in the stalling problem. I know some of the older trans had problem with drain back... Throwing all my ideas and thought on the table...

I'm glad it work out for you... I'm surprise yo sat on the outside of the tank and fought for there... I would of sat between the driveshaft and the tank and got it easy... But live and learn...

So that explains why some drop the 315 tires on trying to get the gear ratio back down to 3.55 gear by changing tires... But looking at thes pics will enlighten you a bit. Just the ~20 pound reduction gain me roughly 2-3 MPG... Rotational mass and rolling resistance plays a big roll in MPG game. Big O AT 235/85 R16 Cooper STT 265/75 R16 Comparing the Cooper STT 265/75 R16 to the Big O AT 235/85 R16

On a ZERO degree day I still just wear jeans and a tee shirt... I've been know to walk the ice out here bare foot too... Yeah I'm nuts but like you I think it hot out above 50*F...

If so would you mine posting you results over here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/group.php?groupid=7

That's me now... I get out and get a bunch of work done then sit down and bam... I can'y move for a time... That is the only thing that tells me I'm getting old... My back sings back at me when I over do it...

Hey guys... Remember there is several features for you here if you want to get together and chat the FlashChat module is here for you to use. Just go up to Mopar Site Link and click on Live Chat. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/misc.php?do=flashchat&room=1 Or.. Go to Community on the bar below forum and slect flash chat... To find out who's chating just check the Who's Online box at the bottom of the main page... To get a group together to chat with send some PM's to people a pick a time to get together online... Enjoy guys...

Well I finally got snow!!! :woot:Even on my birthday! Right on!

Man you and the mice... Well I'm glad you found the resistor and possibly replace it now...

Like myself I've got a Edge Comp tapped on 5x5 and RV275 injectors and I never turn it down at all... I can haul heavy firewood and not think twice... This is because I do have 12cm2 (HX35) exhaust housing over the 9cm2 (HY35). I'm just a straight pipe exhaust and a BHAF... This load in the pic set the cruise at 60 MPH and hover at 800-900*F heading home all up hill from Riggins, ID (1,800 to 2,800ft elevation).

Thanks... Just another day on the books for me... Nothing special...

Like I'm finding out that some head crack and exhaust manifold cracks can be silent till the metal warm up a bit then cause all kind of problems. Poor JL Welding been chasing a cracked head for over 2 years... As for the Stanadyne you might look over other products... Not sure which your using... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/2-cycle-oil/hfrr/hfrr.htm

If your worried about cleaning pull the tube and spray it down with carb cleaner or brake cleaner... As for the tube just stuff a rag in the tube and the drop a plasic sack over it...

Geez.. You just so thoughtful... (rubbing it in) Yeap I'm MDT time for the moment but cross the bridge in Riggins, ID (Timezone bridge) and you go to PDT. No cake here... I'm already overweight already need to loose a few pound now...

If you sit up under the truck you can see the top of the tank fairly good but getting the line released can be a royal PITA... You migh have to loosen the lock ring and lift the sender slightly to release the fuel line...