Mopar1973Man

Sad but true most all things now are produced in China... But when it comes time to do a brake job on my truck it most likely going to require rotors too...

Hmmm...I'm going to subscribe to this because soon or later I'm going to have to replace my rotors and brake pads...Did you try NAPA?

Ummm... Disconnecting the battery will not wipe error codes out... The only way for error code to be erased is by... 1. Using a Code Reader 2. By the ECM/PCM seeing 40 warm up cycles without the issue(s) returning... The disconnecting the batteries to clear codes is a myth... You can have a batch of error codes park the truck pull the batteries for 10 years come back put it back in and the codes are still there... You can thank dodge/Cummins for using Non-Volitale RAM to store the codes. Same thing that stores the odometer mileage...

Southbend Con OFE Nope... Yank the trans out... Pull the pressure plate... That is the only way to check.

Nope... My factory clutch the hub broke out of it... The material was in good shape but part of the hub broke causing issues with shifting and grabbing.

That's odd... If RPM's are jumping all over the place typically it a cam/crank sensor going nuts... A error code would of shown that...

ENGINE CONTROL MODULE (ECM) Removal & Installation 1. Turn ignition off and disconnect negative battery cables. ECM is located on left side of engine block above engine oil pressure sensor and behind fuel filter. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 . 2. Loosen 5/32" (4 mm) Allen head bolt securing 50-pin connector at ECM. Carefully pull ECM connector outward while removing connector bolt. Remove 3 mounting bolts securing ECM to engine block and remove ECM. 3. Ensure back of ECM is clean for good ground connection to engine block. Do not paint back of ECM. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten ECM bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . 4. To calibrate ECM to Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS), turn ignition on. Without starting engine, slowly press throttle pedal to floor and then slowly release. This procedure can only be performed one time. If this procedure is not performed, DTCs may set.

Well pulling the batteries and putting them somewhere warm and keeping a trickle charge on them is a good thing. It the spring of the years you'll need to change all fluids in the truck from head to toe.

Opps... I see a fisheye... :wow:No actually it looks really good... I'm wanting to see you KDP setup...

Same here... I've read up on the BD e Brake and like it more so over my current Jacobs Brake but what I got works really well being I still roling on factory brake pads yet at 176K miles...

I'm going to take a guess you got a 2001 Dodge Cummins... (It would help to fill out you signature with information about your truck).Your going to need to get a code reader and read the codes and find out what going on. P1693 code just means there is another code present. Since I know the 2001 tend to dump just the PCM and the P1693 code is present that means the rest are on the ECM. Then the only way to see them is a code reader... Most part stores have a code reader and they will allow you to use to read the codes. Write them down...

Nicely done... :thumbup2:For those of you that have the 12V's or if you want this will also work on the 24V's as well...

Ugh... You need to run that thing hot... Soot/Carbon will burn off at 1,000*F EGT roughly...

Oh that must you and your buddies doing those low fly by's...

Welcome to the site... Thank you for the wonderful comments... I do have a few more surprises coming... Like right now I'm working on building a Error Code Shop that allows us as a group to compile more information in regards to each error code and how to fix them. Then during this winter I'm going to working on building a maintenance database that you can store your mileage and such and it will notify you of oil changes etc by email...So stick around...

Now to expand on ISX great video... So now you look at the contacts and most are numbered... 85 & 86 are the eletromagnetic coil. 30 is the Common or the movable contact inside that ISX shows... 87a is normally OFF position where the eletromagnetic coil is NOT energized. So 87a and 30 are connected. 87 is normally ON position where the electromagnetic coil IS energized. 87 and 30 are connected. More on relays.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay

That video was shot as of 2 days ago. And yes my truck is always that clean under the hood. When the truck is washed so is the engine...

Ok Gang... I've seen a bunch of you wondering about needle valves... Well here I'm going to explain the reason and why needle valves should be used on all fuel pressure gauges including electric gauges. Now first thing first is why do we need a needle valve? Well the needle valve is a adjustable damper for the fuel flow. It prevents harsh or water hammer pulses from reaching the gauge or sender. What is water hammer? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer Here is what the pulse looks like... But now figure that is pulse open and close at half the RPM's but for 6 cylinder. This pulsation with eventually wear out or eat the gears out of mechanical gauge or electric senders. So here is a quick video of proper set needle valve... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

Everything has a effect... So adding 100 HP injectors will add to the 120 HP ability of the enhancement box (in theory).

OK quick lesson in Enhancement boxes (Edge Products) First off the levels and sublevels... Main level 1. 40 Hp 2. 60 Hp 3. 80 Hp 4. 100 Hp 5. 120 Hp Now the main level is how much fuel and timing is given at WOT operation. This would be consider the maximum fuel flow for the injection pump and timing considerations for this power level. It a P7100 pump this is how far forward you slid the plate. Higher the levle more forward the plate. Sub levels - Defueled Modes - In a P7100 this would be like tightening the AFC starwheel more causing the pump to fuelk later in the boost level. 1. 33% of stock fuel and timing till 20 PSI of boost 2. 50% of stock fuel and timing till 15 PSI of boost 3. 67% of stock fuel and timing till 10 PSI of boost Sub Levels - Power Modes - In a P7100 this would be loosening the AFC starwheel more to allow the pump to fuel more earlier in the boost pressure. 4. Some extra fuel and timing given at 0 PSI of boost 5. Full fuel and timing are given at 0 PSI of boost So now here comes how fast you get your fuel and timing compared to boost pressure. So now the 1-3 sublevels were designed to control smoke from very large injectors. 4-5 are power modes that give more fuel and timing earlier in the boost. Now for MPG game you want to run a ehancement box on it highest level possible and drive with a light foot. Keeping you boost below 5 PSI and pyrometer under 600*F you get 20+ MPG everytime. Reason for this is the fact on 5x5 of a Edge Juice or Comp the box is going to give the most timing and fuel at the lowest boost level. This is good but remember your controlling the fuel with your right foot. so if you foot is light you MPG stay high. Now for slick conditions I might go as extreme at setting 1x1 which is so doggy and unresponsive that you have a very tough time getting the tires to break even if you trying to do burn out on ice. So look at the setting the 1x1 so you got a total of 40 Hp over the stock 235 Hp but that not given till you get to 20 PSI of boost but start at 0 PSI your only going to get 33% of stock fuel to ramp up to 20 PSI and then and only then the enhanced fuel and timing kick in... So like now towing heavy like firewood season for me I'll run with the trailer empty and use 5x5 but once I'm loaded and hauling back I'll use 3x3. This keeps my EGTs in check by reducing the total fuel and timing slighly (80 Hp) and not allowing the use of it till 10 PSI of boost. So basically I'm about stock fuel cruising at 55 MPH but now hit a hill or mild grade then the boost climb past the 10 PSI now the fuel and timing are added back to the signal and the boost of power to pull over the hill. But there is a down side of this. Now during the time I'm cruise with 3x3 and only pulling maybe 5-7 PSI off boost the 67% of stock fuel is my fuel limt and the timing is degraded so you MPG's will be less than typical. This should help you...

I prefer the chips (enhancement boxes) over injectors... Reason being is since you Utah you might see icy roads and such down there. If so then when road conditions get poor you can use a enhancement box to de-tune the engine to gain control of the moment where just injectors you gain the power but ZERO control over it except with your foot. So like a buddy up here in Idaho has a 92 Cummins 1 Ton all tuned up but gets to park it every winter because it just to wild to drive on icy roads... So consider you weather conditions and power requirements too... Then on the flip side of all this injectors will increase your fuel flow but does absolutely nothing for injection timing. So if you looking for MPG's or HP/TQ you going to need timing more so.

Solenoids/relays failed???

Long video but worth watching... This is one reason why I don't like big cities... (Bad Cops...)

Man I would drool to get those kind of miles out of tires... But with all the dirt road travel up and down hills as much as I try to keep them from slipping its still really tough on tires.

Your bad...