Mopar1973Man

Very simple after you consumed a tank of fuel the SGII will report what it thinks you have consumed. well this will be off for sure so now you take and adjust the SGII to match the same amount of fuel that you pumped in your tank to the SGII and that part is calibrated. Now you take a GPS of any type and cruise along at 45, 55, 65, and 75 MPH and calibrate the SGII to match as closely as possible to the GPS. (NOT you stock speedometer!) So now what is all this do??? Well it sets the stag for calculation fuel usage... Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour)

Ok... Fitting got to Vulcan Performance to get the fitting you need for the big line kit. As for the needle valve its a WH6820 from Napa for a whole $8 bucks. As for the Sender you got to order it from Edge...

Good lord that has a wide and wild swing too it...

MoparMom said, "Either get a bigger couch or start raising smaller dogs..."

Electric Fans?

Ummm... Well starting price of a VP44 is about $1,200.00... You might want to run through the vendor list here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/dealers/dealers.htm Or go over to the vendors area and ask them directly... /forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/67-Vendors-amp-Dealers As for installing most anyone with standard tools can install one but the only special tool is the gear puller. Some people have fab'ed up some steering wheel pullers or just purchased the actual puller...

Same here just contacts...

Hmmm... News to me... There was a deal long ago on Cummins forum about swapping VP44 pumps and the swap usually end in poor running trucks... Well then the best thing I can say is becareful...

Geez... Now I'm glad I don't have a 12V... All the junk that was added on your doesn't exist on a 24V...

Like Valencia??? I used to live in Mission Hills, Ca so I use to play in the valencia area going toward Zuni campground... Such a long time ago...

I wouldn't spray any kind of flamable material in the intake... As ISX has shown to us the grid heater can get above 500*F and could ignite most all flamable materials in the intake tract with explosive force (possible). If you got injection line loosen they should spray like a power washer while cranking not dribbling on the manifold. If it only dribbling then there is more air in the system yet. Because when a injection pump is primed up it will produce right around 4K to 5K PSI and yes it looks exactly like a power washer under the hood...

Nope it won't work.

Yeap...

I need one of these...

I'm going to double verify my number when I get a chance...

I'll keep you in mind as I sit here looking at the snow on the mountains...

Well the diesel is a different beast for cold weather. The amount of fuel used cold is slightly increase but just enough to hold idle governor speed. As for preheating the air the 24V do preheat the air only after there is coolant temp to do so... Like my 24V will match dead on for IAT and Outside temps. I start to see the offset about 140*f and then the offset grows as the coolant rises to 190*F and above. Typically the IAT will match cold but rise up to +40*F offset of the outside temp. Then if you got a winter front on the IAT will have a max of +50*F offset typically. Reason for this is the air isn't blowing through the intercoolers all the time. Hmmm... My fan only stays locked from 1st to 2nd gear then its fully unlocked after that it remains unlocked for the rest of the run...

Umm truthfully... Join Date was October 25, 2009 so it wasn't too long ago..

Oh My... Pants and Jacket... It must be cold now... Still a shock that totally blocked off there was very little change. Nice to see the engine oil is consistant about starting up mine does the same thing... Sorry to hear about losing the water pump...

Ok... A few tidbits to add... The 190*F stock thermostat is basically closed by 188*F so at 190*F it barely cracking open. If your looking in the radiator for movement its not going to be there. When you'll see movement clearly is on a super hot day and the coolant is at 198*F now you'll see flowing coolant because there thermostat is fully open. As for the heater core test flow by grabbing the hose is not a true test I hate to say it... I had this exact problem with my 1972 Dodge PowerWagon pickup what it came down to was pulling the heater core and rodded it out. trust me after doing that it worked awesome. But in the same sense I had a plugged heater core and was doing the same thing feeling the heater hose lines and they were both hot assuming that it was flowing... Nope they weren't flowing good at all... Its convection of hest it was heat the coolant regardless of the flow. Now truely if the heater core is working propelry there should be a few degree fall on the return line but on a plugged heater core both line will most like feel the same... Because if the heater core is dumping heat in the cab the return should be cooler. Just like the radiator the upper hose will be hot as hell and the lower hose is cold to the touch this is showing that the radiator is doing it job properly. So my thought is heater core is still partially plugged up...

There was a bug for the first cold start but as for any shut down and restart... (Clueless) The only thing I can say is double check your source is good 12V and not a loose connection... Double check your ground is good too. Beyond that I would say its time to talk to Edge...

Really quite odd there was no difference...