Mopar1973Man

I'm running both the stock Fleetguard and the AirDog 150 with fleetguard 3 micron... Lets say tthe stock filter is still white for the most part and closing in at 50K miles... But I've changed the AD filter twice in 50K miles...

I don't remember which years but all the automatics like from 2000-2002 I think have HY35 turbos... All manuals trans came with HX35...

I tend to make up for the fleetguard lacking by using a bypass filter (Frantz Filter) and it down to 1/2 Micron according to their web site www.wefilterit.com ... Like Dorkweed proved already that you can go 80K+ miles with cheap old WalMart Supertech Engine Oil, fleetgaurd filters, and a bypass filter and never think about changing oil... (Scary but true!) But that just my thoughts on it...

I'm curious too...

I know on the VE pumps there is 2 spring that controls governor speeds... 1. The main spring that everyone upgrades to 366 (3,200 RPM). 2. Then the tophat spring which controls idle. Now as the pump is idling the governor arm leans against the tophat spring. As the engine starts to slow down the tophat spring pushs the throttle up more keeping the engine going. But this is VE pump information but it might give a clue to what you missed on you spring setup... VE pump...

Did the diodes check out good too?

Not bad they are just a bit sticky for a clutch... (Or a got a hot spot from all the log skidding I do...) GW is right... You can run a boost elbow against the stock ECM but don't expect to keep you upper end power. As the boost rises to its limit the ECM will defuel the VP44 to try and keep a hold of it. But your upper end performance will suffer. Now if you want to trip the code then you need to shock the ECM... Cruise a lower RPM and drop a gear and nail it WOT the boost will rises so far that the ECM can't defuel fast enough and it will pass the mark. P0234 code will be thrown... Just remember P0234 is a wastegate problem not a MAP sensor...

Only as good as the exhaust... So if you do a bunch of mods to the intake remember to do the exhaust too... This also mean to include your turbo exhaust housing because putting all the intake mods in and having a 9cm2 HY35 turbo is not going to change it much... This could be measured by having both boost pressure and drive pressure gauges in the cab. Typically boost and drive pressure should run equal most of the time till you hit your choke point then the drive pressure rises rapidily...

Yep... You need to get a scan tool and read your error codes. Also you need to check your lift pump pressure(s). As for the fuel pressure you need a pressure gauge in the cab so you can watch both idle and WOT throttle extremes... The needle should stay in the green all the time! 2001 Dodge's are known for not reporting both computer so what you saw was the PCM error codes P1693 pointing to the ECM... But the ECM never display it just rolled over to the odometer... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=7XQJmaIF9Do

I personal run Fleetguard filters...

That funny... Sounds like turbo wheeze...

Subscribing... I do metal work now and then but I'm curious about the blade idea...

Wow! 3 Transmissions... Still running the same one from the factory NV4500... Edge Comp on 5x5, RV275 injectors and SouthBend Clutch been no issues here... Hauling weigh, skidding logs, etc... Must be the NV4500 are bit tougher... -

The older 1st gen most of them did not have wastegates (H1C's) but had huge exhaust housing... They would spool maybe 15 PSI stock... But install a HX35 on a 1st gen and you got a new animal...

Here you go a list of different manufacture to play with... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Couple things I spoted about that picture... First take notice that a normally loaded differential holds about 3 quarts of gear fluid. Your lucky if there was a quart in the picture. The the other thing is if this person was really taking care of his vehicle he would be doing monthly inspections of the fluids and would caught it before it did cause problems like myself... Caught it early the rust just barely started... This is about 2" deep in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket... So in his pic... That just pure abuse... Lack of inspections checking fluid levels and condition...

Well my first BHAF lasted 128K miles and 7 years before I gave in to change it... A dead give away to the performance of a air filter... Take your rubber intake boot and wipe it clean first then spray a light coat of WD40 and then take a ride down a dirt road somewhere for 10-20 miles. Pull the intake boot and wipe it out with a clean white paper towel and take notice to dirt found... Like what happen to me was plastic lid of my stock air box was deforming with the unhood temp causing a dust leak. So looking at the BHAF is a completely sealed unit no way for dirt to enter. It pure size makes it a excellent choice ofr dirt roads because jus the vibration of a dirt road will shake out most dust and dirt... So in a lot of ways it self cleaning. You don't need a Outerwears pre-filter either but some people like them...

Nice piece and done very well...

P0112 is a short to ground on the +5V side which would show 0 Volts on the ECM... But a open lead or a sensor missing would be a P0113 where the line is un-grounded and would show +5V at the ECM. Hopefully that helps to find the issue... The only thing beyond that would be start calling around to see if a ECM rebuilder would be capable of bench testing a ECM but so far I've never seen one yet... Or another idea is to see if a Dodge dealer would hook up a DRBIII tool and check the ECM and sensor for you but you know the shop hour rate is steep...

That sucks...

I know a minimum of 15 PSI will keep the overflow valve open while the engine is running but very little to no fuel will flow through the VP44 pump even at 17.5 PSI with the engine off...

Heck... I'm sitting here and playing Dragon Age for the PC... http://dragonage.bioware.com/dao/game/order-ultimate/

Heck if you wanting to do that that's easy... If you turn up your VE pump you be able to roll coal without much problem... Taz with a 1992 Dodge after a bunch of pump work he can roll coal on demand... No switch or wastegate mods...

Hmmm... Do you have... [*]Boost fooler to keep the ECM from seeing over boost condition? [*]Extra fuel? It takes fuel to make boost? You could check by taking a pair of vise grips and carefully pinch the hose shut and take a test drive... If the boost rises more then your boost elbow doesn't shut enough...

Your setup would for sure deal with turbo bark...