Mopar1973Man

Yeap we need the error codes of whats happening... But its sounding like a VP44 problem...

True in might be in the service manual and within spec... But something about tighten up the clearance even more that typical bother me...

Question? What is your fuel pressure ar at this 2K RPM's? Is the fuel rail draining off from a weak fuel pump or plugged filter causing the engine to surge because it trying to fuel more and it can't... 12 flash code means the battery was disconnected at one point. Vacuum leak? You'd be surprised what a vacuum leak will do to these newer electronic fuel injection vehicles...

Personally after doing the study work on the Carter, Carter HP, and the Holley pumps... I hate to say none of these pump are worth buying to feed a $1000 dollar injection pump. Holley come up short because the fact all holley pumps are not designed to be used for diesel fuel. Then they are made from the very same design of a carter. So the Holley has the exact same weakness as a carter pump except the regulator is better thats all. But the actual motor life is typically short at about a year or two and it fails. Thing is to be truthful there is so very few pump that are actually designed for diesel and can keep up with Bocsh requirements. That bring up another tidbit what is Bosch's requirements??? Bosch's Requirements is that at least 70% of the fuel must be return to the fuel tank to properly cool and lubricate a VP44 injection pump. Ok... That said... Now I know typical stock truck can draw upwards of 20-22 GPH worth of burn rate. So if the stock pump is only rated for 35 GPH so that means 20 / 35 = 57% of the fuel volume is comsumed and only 43% is being returned... No enough... But now increase the fuel pump to say 100 GPH and now do the math. 20 / 100 = 20% so that means 80% is being return under the heaviest load and plenty of cooling and lubrication is occuring. But there is a hitch to this Now the lift pump has to be able to keep above 14 PSI at WOT to keep the cooling and lubricating going. Once you start dropping below 14 PSI the overflow valve on the return line start to close that means reduced cooling and lubrication so once the fuel pressure falls to 10 PSI the valve is closed and all extra cooling and lubrication is gone...

As long as you drive sensible and keep your speed moderate you'll see the 20 MPG all the time...

Don't feel bad... I've got a whole rash of ad notices going out because the time all the ads started and it now 1 year later... Thing is I'm waiting for the list to thin out and then will go one by one and fix each one... No I've not forgotten but it one of those thing I rather spend the entire day going through all the vendors and redo in one shot instead of one here and one a couple days later... But ISX is right... I've got a bunch going on locally and been gone a bunch...

Most see 2-3 MPG gain over stock injectors... RV275 are exactly that... 275 HP... So if you do some math 275-235= +40 HP...

Funny part is if you take care of it in the first place you'll never have to worry about cleaning, removal problems, rusting, corrosion problems, etc...

what kind of problems?

Comes down to the simple fact that all metal expands... So at full operating temp how much expansion of metal do you have? Now that things tighten up and running higher RPM's how much valve float or interference would you have? There is a reason for why Cummins has these valve set this way... (Yes. I know the shrug smiley is AWOL!) :banghead:

Really odd... The stock bulbs that came in my Dodge are over 9 years old... Made by Sylvania... Now all the after market bulbs I tried I've seen to have a live of 1-2 years...

Problem with Holley Blue and Black neither pump is designed for diesel fuel (from Holley's mouth). Then the other problem is that the pump has the same weak points as the stock carter lift pumps. So if you don't mine buying a Holley pump with 30 day warranty that you'll change about once a year... After going throught the lift pump battle myself and trying to find something that last more that 1 years I found AirDog... Since then mine have been running flawless for 4 years now. AirDog, Raptor, And Full FASS come with a lifetime warranty so if the pump should fail just replace it under warranty... At $200 a piece at the time and replacing them every 15K to 20K miles in just 2 years I spent $600 bucks on a fuel pumps. Then add the $125 for the big line kit... Now I'm wishing I would of just listen a long time ago and just bought a AirDog the first time and saved all the money...

Welcome to the forum...

It not good on any engine to run short trip to the point the coolant temp never reaches full operating temp. Over of a period of time the engine oil starts to breakdown from contaminates from fuel, moisture, etc. I know of a Ford Diesel local that "Had" the same live and found itsself parked in a back yard now because the owner ate the engine... Like Mom's 1996 Dodge Ram its got a 5.9L Mopar Magnum V8 engine. I use it alot in the yard... Well my yard is a whole 4 arces tops... So like going down and getting a load of firewood from the shed and bringing it back to the main house. Even if I idle it the whole time it barely even shows 140*F of coolant so every other trip I will phyiscal get out on the highway and drive till its at full time and then turn around and return home... I know this little truck sees very little travel being it gets fuel once a month... But the whole idea is to heat the oil up to get all the contaminates burned off and moitures out of the oil.

Those are both transmission codes both are for the TQ Conv... p0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid/Trans Relay Circuitsp1765 Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay CTRL Circuit

Right on... Thanks Flman...

250 - Injection pump??251 - Fuel Inj. Pump Mech. Failure Fuel Valve Feedback Circuit230 - Transfer Pump (Lift Pump) Circuit Out of Range500 - No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal501 - Speed sensor1689 - No Communication Between ECM and Injection Pump Module1693 - Companion code1765 - Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Ctrl Circuit (Mystery switch) As for the brake light I have it happen from spinning trhe tires and most times I press the pedal hard and it resets... Since there was no ABS light its not a speed sensor failure. The rest seem to be a rash of injection pump codes...

Like I said above... The Polyon is sold at NAPA... As for the fitting should be sold at a standard plumbing shop...

I'll let the cat out of the bag... He ran the wire between the bezel and the gauge lens...

As for the light... Depends on what your seeing... If the light is flashing then the parking brake pedal is not returning. If its solid the sensor on the brake proportion valve is screwy. As for the light... There is a plug on the drive side seat belt. Unplug the wiring and bridge across and see if the light goes out.

Welcome to the site...

I did mine in 2 pieces... 3/4 -> 1/2... Then 1/2 to 1/8...

2-3 MPG increase roughly.

So havn't quite got them to work yet... Keep working...

Like the Edge Comp 4th and 5th level crossing bug I've got... I replace it several time and the screwed it up everytime... But the problem say you set 4x1 and 5x5 and run on 5 then the truck run like 4x1... But now change 4x1 to 4x5 and set main level 5 and bam! Instant power... So I know to keep 4th and 5th levels the same...