Mopar1973Man

Subscribing... I do metal work now and then but I'm curious about the blade idea...

Wow! 3 Transmissions... Still running the same one from the factory NV4500... Edge Comp on 5x5, RV275 injectors and SouthBend Clutch been no issues here... Hauling weigh, skidding logs, etc... Must be the NV4500 are bit tougher... -

The older 1st gen most of them did not have wastegates (H1C's) but had huge exhaust housing... They would spool maybe 15 PSI stock... But install a HX35 on a 1st gen and you got a new animal...

Here you go a list of different manufacture to play with... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/manufacture/manufacture.htm

Couple things I spoted about that picture... First take notice that a normally loaded differential holds about 3 quarts of gear fluid. Your lucky if there was a quart in the picture. The the other thing is if this person was really taking care of his vehicle he would be doing monthly inspections of the fluids and would caught it before it did cause problems like myself... Caught it early the rust just barely started... This is about 2" deep in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket... So in his pic... That just pure abuse... Lack of inspections checking fluid levels and condition...

Well my first BHAF lasted 128K miles and 7 years before I gave in to change it... A dead give away to the performance of a air filter... Take your rubber intake boot and wipe it clean first then spray a light coat of WD40 and then take a ride down a dirt road somewhere for 10-20 miles. Pull the intake boot and wipe it out with a clean white paper towel and take notice to dirt found... Like what happen to me was plastic lid of my stock air box was deforming with the unhood temp causing a dust leak. So looking at the BHAF is a completely sealed unit no way for dirt to enter. It pure size makes it a excellent choice ofr dirt roads because jus the vibration of a dirt road will shake out most dust and dirt... So in a lot of ways it self cleaning. You don't need a Outerwears pre-filter either but some people like them...

Nice piece and done very well...

P0112 is a short to ground on the +5V side which would show 0 Volts on the ECM... But a open lead or a sensor missing would be a P0113 where the line is un-grounded and would show +5V at the ECM. Hopefully that helps to find the issue... The only thing beyond that would be start calling around to see if a ECM rebuilder would be capable of bench testing a ECM but so far I've never seen one yet... Or another idea is to see if a Dodge dealer would hook up a DRBIII tool and check the ECM and sensor for you but you know the shop hour rate is steep...

That sucks...

I know a minimum of 15 PSI will keep the overflow valve open while the engine is running but very little to no fuel will flow through the VP44 pump even at 17.5 PSI with the engine off...

Heck... I'm sitting here and playing Dragon Age for the PC... http://dragonage.bioware.com/dao/game/order-ultimate/

Heck if you wanting to do that that's easy... If you turn up your VE pump you be able to roll coal without much problem... Taz with a 1992 Dodge after a bunch of pump work he can roll coal on demand... No switch or wastegate mods...

Hmmm... Do you have... [*]Boost fooler to keep the ECM from seeing over boost condition? [*]Extra fuel? It takes fuel to make boost? You could check by taking a pair of vise grips and carefully pinch the hose shut and take a test drive... If the boost rises more then your boost elbow doesn't shut enough...

Your setup would for sure deal with turbo bark...

Full set of gauges... Fuel Pressure, Pyrometer, Boost, Transmission Temp.

Then do a test run the boost should never rise above 35 PSI. If it is the open/unscrew the allen screw a 1/8 of turn and test again... Keep doing this till you see roughly 34-35 PSI...

I'm sure if you contact Edge they would most likely sell you one...

Like my Edge Comp elbow produces 35 PSI... But the adjustable elbow I got needs a bit of tuning because it doesn't shut enough so it produces barely 25 PSI...

Nope the pics didn't post...

Ahh... We hit a nerve there... So if you needing to jump start and the battery condition is poor I going to bet money you got a issues somewhere in the charging system...

Sounds like it...

No... The case cover and gear case appears identical to a non-stepped... The only way to tell is to open the gase case...

Typically they always show a code when there bad... P0121, P0122, or P0123... That's why I suggested checking the alternator too... Because the alter AC noise will cause this too... Bad grounds on the passenger side battery...

Yes its a plastic plug and its got o-rings in it and they most likeyl giving up the ghost now... As for pulling them apart I'm sure there is a way to pull the plug and service the plug.

Holy Cow! Talk about talent! Wow!