Mopar1973Man

I'm going to double verify my number when I get a chance...

I'll keep you in mind as I sit here looking at the snow on the mountains...

Well the diesel is a different beast for cold weather. The amount of fuel used cold is slightly increase but just enough to hold idle governor speed. As for preheating the air the 24V do preheat the air only after there is coolant temp to do so... Like my 24V will match dead on for IAT and Outside temps. I start to see the offset about 140*f and then the offset grows as the coolant rises to 190*F and above. Typically the IAT will match cold but rise up to +40*F offset of the outside temp. Then if you got a winter front on the IAT will have a max of +50*F offset typically. Reason for this is the air isn't blowing through the intercoolers all the time. Hmmm... My fan only stays locked from 1st to 2nd gear then its fully unlocked after that it remains unlocked for the rest of the run...

Umm truthfully... Join Date was October 25, 2009 so it wasn't too long ago..

Oh My... Pants and Jacket... It must be cold now... Still a shock that totally blocked off there was very little change. Nice to see the engine oil is consistant about starting up mine does the same thing... Sorry to hear about losing the water pump...

Ok... A few tidbits to add... The 190*F stock thermostat is basically closed by 188*F so at 190*F it barely cracking open. If your looking in the radiator for movement its not going to be there. When you'll see movement clearly is on a super hot day and the coolant is at 198*F now you'll see flowing coolant because there thermostat is fully open. As for the heater core test flow by grabbing the hose is not a true test I hate to say it... I had this exact problem with my 1972 Dodge PowerWagon pickup what it came down to was pulling the heater core and rodded it out. trust me after doing that it worked awesome. But in the same sense I had a plugged heater core and was doing the same thing feeling the heater hose lines and they were both hot assuming that it was flowing... Nope they weren't flowing good at all... Its convection of hest it was heat the coolant regardless of the flow. Now truely if the heater core is working propelry there should be a few degree fall on the return line but on a plugged heater core both line will most like feel the same... Because if the heater core is dumping heat in the cab the return should be cooler. Just like the radiator the upper hose will be hot as hell and the lower hose is cold to the touch this is showing that the radiator is doing it job properly. So my thought is heater core is still partially plugged up...

There was a bug for the first cold start but as for any shut down and restart... (Clueless) The only thing I can say is double check your source is good 12V and not a loose connection... Double check your ground is good too. Beyond that I would say its time to talk to Edge...

Really quite odd there was no difference...

Oh Man... I would love to have that CPU... Then with 2 MB of level 3 Cache... 2600 Mhz x 4 Cores... Compared to my wimpy 2700 MHz x 2 Cores...

Boy that says a lot about Chevron Delo... Make it to 900K and still rolling... I remember the first phone call I got from Caj and he was barely rolling over to 700K miles... How the miles fly...

Cheap $8 dollar needle valve from NAPA (WH6820)... Then how to set the valve... With a digital gauge it going to be tough... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M33ZCc8b-7Q

That is a short bed bracket I'm using... Yes it came with the AD150.

Florida... Try going north to Maine... That will fix ya...

Well my old pic of a few years back....

Actually it has... There is another post floating around with all 4 videos on it... Where I'm not sure now...

Just a crazy pup... When he gets older it will catch up with him...

The only positions the A/C should come on is... [*]MAX A/C [*]A/C [*]BiLevel [*]Floor/Def [*]Def Now as for Vent and Floor those will not trigger the A/C... But the nice part of running the A/C is that the A/C is cooling the evaporator drying the air as the moisture freezes to the evaporator. But since the in comnig air is so cold the freon pressure fall rapidily and the A/C cycles off. This causes the evaporator to warm back up and thaw draining the moisture outside. This just makes life nicer in the cab...

Good lord man you need to put on some pants you making me cold looking at the video...

I'm going to bet money your gauge (sender) is shot and been water hammered to death... Don't take much of that to kill a good gauge... Yea... The next best option to test this out...

What every you do DON'T add weather seal to the existing door seal this will create a water leak and will do damage to the interior... Some previous owner did that to Mom's 96 and added a chunk of weather strip to the upper seal above the door it cured the wind noise but all had a wet door from the rain dripping in... Worse yet have the dang door freeze shut with a icle hanging inside... As for the door tweak you can try but you'll find out that door is rather strong and if you get carry away you will do damage ot the door.

Yeap... You can trade out the exhaust flange... Like my exhaust brake it trades out the eblow for the exhaust brake... So yes as long as the bolt pattern is the same it can be traded to match your exhaust system...

Might be the door sagging a bit fron the hinge pins wearing out a bit. You can adjust the top hinge in a bit on the door side and that should fix the wind noise problem.

As for the exhaust style just swap on what you need to make it work either the elbow or the stub. As for the early 24V there where all HX35 turbo till later like 2000 or 2001 they did the HY35... But in any case everything else wil bolt up to it... Just the exhaust tip that got to be swap to fit the pipe style you got... That's all...

Needle Valve or snubber installed?

Wow that's neat...