Mopar1973Man

I'm thankful it not that cold here in Idaho... Maybe -20*F... But not -40*F...

Funny I got the pump end totally figured out with standard open end wrench... Its the head connection I complain about... 5 and 6 are the bad ones...

Well it always best to upgrade the weak links before adding power to the truck... What really got me scratchin' my head is the fact you got 4.10 gears and it should pull like no ones business and easy. I've haul backhoes, pickups on flatbed trailers, firewood, and always been able to pull at least 55 MPH without much issues...

Yeah I know what you mean... This why I suggest not adding more anti-gel unless you actually have a gelling issues... Like my local Cenex pumps in a unknown amount of this to the fuel tanks. But they might have 12-20 barrel behind the store... Since Xylene is a poor lubricant I tend to keep a watchful eye on the lubricity more so than the gelling issues... Xylene explained... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xylene

Now that I've seen that I could make my own for less...

Best suggestion is pick up a bottle of 911 (red bottle) keep it in the the truck for when it does gel then you add it to the fuel but as for something to add to the fuel all winter long I would just continue with a good fuel lubricant.

Caj's is a towing fool if he's capable of passing 900K miles and head to the 1 MIL mark hauling boats he must be doing something right...

Heck with my RV275's, Edge Comp on 5x5, straight pipe ex, BHAF, and HX35 I can tag the 1,400*F easy... 100 HP injectors are going to be extremely hard to control... If you capable of controlling every power level up to 5x5 then I'd say go up in injector size... Remember Edge you can turn down to control EGT temps. But injectors once there install you cannot turn them down all you can do is slow down...

Good suggestion... Like myself I still got my stock sticks...

Welcome to the site... It was my design to try and aim for the common folks more. Enjoy...

Give the homey feel doesn't it??? Snows a blowing outside and the warm fire inside perfect way to spend T Day...

The only way to figure out exactly which sensor is failed is a nice trip to a Dodge Dealer ot a shop that has a ABS scantool that can see the speed sensors... That's the only way I know how...

Coments in blue.

No kidding... You going to need a lot of mayo to moisten that meat back up for a sandwich...

Yeap he's right on the money... EGT location...

You got a speed sensor out... Most likely on the front axle. Mine did the same thing if you were running along and hit the brakes hard the ABS pump would fight you. So once you change out the speed sensor and take a short drive it should fix it... It not a rear sensor if the speedometer is working...

Not a problem that what we are here to do is to help each other...

Yea... CaJ Flynn is proof of that being he crossed the 900K mark... The pre-lube pump was a very popular addon back when I was around DTR. Then kind of disappeared like Scott II air filters...

According to FSM specs for 2001 its 34 gallons for short wheel based and 35 gallons for long wheel base.

How about this one... No pump... http://www.autoenginelube.com/

If you driving anywhere leave early so you can take you time... Don't drink and drive... Don't get too fat eatting Bird...

Funny... There web site still up... But I know that doesn't mean much... http://www.danininc.com/

I agree with W&F you need to back down on the injectors...

My in blue...

On the Timbo APPS there is technically no voltage adjustment. Just keep twisting the stop screw till the voltage rises the back off till its at the orignal voltage and add a 1/2 turn. Basically at the APPS signal rises the ECM is triggered to THROTTLING mode. Then when the throttle is released it should be at IDLE MODE. So be sure your voltage is at its lowest point plus a half turn... As for the dead pedal there is only 2 causes... 1. Bad APPS sensor which ALWAYS throws a code P0121, P0122, P0123... 2. Bad VP44 which doesn't have to toss a code but could... P0215, P0216, P0251, P0252, P0253, P1688, P01689... But like I said not all the time will it throw a code... Now you mention you replaced the lift pump a few times... But didn't mention the fact of what your fuel pressure is. This is critical to know! Remember the only thing that lubes and cools the VP44 is the fuel. So if you short fuel pressure the VP44 can and will take on damage either mechanical (white smoke - failing advancement cam) or electronic (dead pedal). When the fuel pressure start falling below 14 PSI the overflow valve starts to close and reduce the cooling and lubing of the VP44... So since there is no extra fuel leaving the pump because the overflow valve is closed then that means the only fuel to cool and lube the pump is what going to the injections which typical doesn't flow enough. Lack of fuel pressure is like a lack of oil pressure on the engine... Do you expect the engine to survive very long at 10 PSI running 2,500 rpms? Well the VP44 has to live on a very small margin for fuel pressure... Keep it in the green at all time and the VP44 will live a very long and happy live normally...