Mopar1973Man

That is a short bed bracket I'm using... Yes it came with the AD150.

Florida... Try going north to Maine... That will fix ya...

Well my old pic of a few years back....

Actually it has... There is another post floating around with all 4 videos on it... Where I'm not sure now...

Just a crazy pup... When he gets older it will catch up with him...

The only positions the A/C should come on is... [*]MAX A/C [*]A/C [*]BiLevel [*]Floor/Def [*]Def Now as for Vent and Floor those will not trigger the A/C... But the nice part of running the A/C is that the A/C is cooling the evaporator drying the air as the moisture freezes to the evaporator. But since the in comnig air is so cold the freon pressure fall rapidily and the A/C cycles off. This causes the evaporator to warm back up and thaw draining the moisture outside. This just makes life nicer in the cab...

Good lord man you need to put on some pants you making me cold looking at the video...

I'm going to bet money your gauge (sender) is shot and been water hammered to death... Don't take much of that to kill a good gauge... Yea... The next best option to test this out...

What every you do DON'T add weather seal to the existing door seal this will create a water leak and will do damage to the interior... Some previous owner did that to Mom's 96 and added a chunk of weather strip to the upper seal above the door it cured the wind noise but all had a wet door from the rain dripping in... Worse yet have the dang door freeze shut with a icle hanging inside... As for the door tweak you can try but you'll find out that door is rather strong and if you get carry away you will do damage ot the door.

Yeap... You can trade out the exhaust flange... Like my exhaust brake it trades out the eblow for the exhaust brake... So yes as long as the bolt pattern is the same it can be traded to match your exhaust system...

Might be the door sagging a bit fron the hinge pins wearing out a bit. You can adjust the top hinge in a bit on the door side and that should fix the wind noise problem.

As for the exhaust style just swap on what you need to make it work either the elbow or the stub. As for the early 24V there where all HX35 turbo till later like 2000 or 2001 they did the HY35... But in any case everything else wil bolt up to it... Just the exhaust tip that got to be swap to fit the pipe style you got... That's all...

Needle Valve or snubber installed?

Wow that's neat...

I when digging over ther site and can't seem to find there version of the box... They do sell Edge products...

I would do just a Raptor 100... Yeah in any case the lift pump needed to be upgraded. I would use 1/2 hose and plumbing for everything but you could use the stock pickup tube on the 100 series pumps... The only secret I can give is to hose clamp the hose direct to the plastic nipple. Then dropping the tank isn't required... Quadzilla XZT should give a good boost in power...

Well normal tools to get the dash out of the way... But to release the A/C lines you need the special collar tool to do it... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/evaporator/evaporator.htm

I managed to push the reference clock to 237 MHz and keep it stable under low loads but soon as I put a load on the processor the temp would take off... Time for a bigger cooling fan... 237 x 13.5 = 3,199 MHz (3.1 GHz) From... 200 x 13.5 = 2700 MHz (2.7 GHz) Just like fat injectors in a Cummins... Now the EGT's are just getting too hot.. Time for a bigger turbo and exhaust...

Just thinking of that what did you do about jiggle pins? Curious what you had to do to make it work?

Part link didn't worky... You need to make a screen shot of it...

I know Caj's has been through a few lift pumps, a few injection pumps, etc...

Yeap... $160 bucks has been the price since I bought mine like 5 years ago... Well worth it tool! I used mine druing the time my fuel gauge failed. I never ran out of fuel and the SGII was all way like really close to being dead on.

Dang... :banghead: I was trying to get his goat going... And it didn't work... Well at least your paying attention to details...

Last touch of fuel I got in New Meadows, ID is hold steady at $3.659

Won't make a difference... With those toyz underlined your display would be a long ways off showing you like 35 MPG... The best thing to use if you want one is a ScanGauge II or simular... Because you can calibrate it to your fueling toyz and the huge oversize tire and get true numbers... www.scangauge.com