Mopar1973Man

Can you imagine driving over debris like this? I do it all the time...

Is that all you get for 3 cylinder??? That what I get with 6 cylinder high idle and the exhaust brake... You don't want to see my pyrometer touch 1,000*F with the exhaust brake, and the grid heaters because everytime the grid heater turn on the coal would roll...

No... I've got just enough room between the AD150 and the transfer case to reach in and pull the plug to check my transfer case fluid. As for driveline nope its out of the way... It's back just enough that I got to pull the rear set of bolts on the skid plate to get the filters off the Airdog. But that's nice because all summer this truck rarely sees pavement...

Yeah... Johnfak and ISX learned that one... HY35 turbo needs a J hook to really get up and perform...

Ok here you go...

That's mine exactly... Then the rest of the pump mounts on top of that... As for specs I guess I could do the dirty thing and pull mine down a sec to shoot pics of it... Geez... How I hate to pull the pump down its always a mess...

Like mine... Mine is orginal AirDog 150 bracket for short bed trucks...

Hmmm... That +30 setting is most likely a timing only setting...

Hmmm... Instead of chopping up the truck I built the heat shield and then using backing nuts I lifted the plate up till there was just enough stud left to put the top nut on and hold the plate in place... So the top of the stud in flush with the nut and there is nothing to rub the filter then...

The only programmer I think is good is the Smarty... But even then its limited to 60-65HP for us 2nd Gen 24V trucks... For the money spent on a SuperChip or Smarty you get a better range of power control with a Quadzilla or Edge product... Not to mention the QZ/Edge is adjustable on the fly so you don't need to plug in anything... Sad to see you lost you flash over a programmer...

It's a Weatherhead Part (WH6820) you should be able to get it through any part store selling hydraulic hoses and such... But here is the part page from Napa for you...

Here is a older setup... Now what does a single water hamer pulse look like??? More about water hammer... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_hammer

Just because of the amount of information... I'm going to add this to the stick pile for now and get a article made of this soon...

I had a quiet year for my truck... Just standard fluid changes, starter contacts, and replace a few light bulbs... I don't want to talk about previous year with all the wheel bearing, clutch, axle seals, ABS sensors, etc

Mine is a 1/8" NPT need valve installed in that exact fitting above... But there is a problem electric sender don't work unless you give then a ground. That the problem I got currently with my exist low pressure switch that was I suggest the fitting above. Now since the Water Hammer source is at the VP44 it highly suggested to mount your fuel pressure gauge as far from the source of the water hammer. Less damage that way. But remember the fuel pressure sender must be after the filter... So if your like me you have a stock fuel filter housing that typically will have a air bubble on top which acts as a shock absorber so if you tap the line just after the filter housing it will aid in suspressing the water hammer effect.

Nope there is a tapered tip on the filter that fits the mouth of the stock tube and just tighten the clamp done snug. If you want super solid then add a short piece a 4" exhaust pipe inside the tapper to give it more strength... No special parts, fitting, etc.. Just need a screwdriver...

Now who needs the extra cup of coffe this morning???

Why? it all right here on the forum and web site... Also the SGII comes with... "A Operators Manual"... I just had too..

www.dieselbombers.com - Owner - Chad Embery Yeah I've heard of him... Look below in my bookmarks...

Even my older NAPA stat only gots to maybe 204*F then pops open suddenly and falls to as low as 188*F one time... After that it hang right at 193-197*F...

Very simple after you consumed a tank of fuel the SGII will report what it thinks you have consumed. well this will be off for sure so now you take and adjust the SGII to match the same amount of fuel that you pumped in your tank to the SGII and that part is calibrated. Now you take a GPS of any type and cruise along at 45, 55, 65, and 75 MPH and calibrate the SGII to match as closely as possible to the GPS. (NOT you stock speedometer!) So now what is all this do??? Well it sets the stag for calculation fuel usage... Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour)

Ok... Fitting got to Vulcan Performance to get the fitting you need for the big line kit. As for the needle valve its a WH6820 from Napa for a whole $8 bucks. As for the Sender you got to order it from Edge...

Good lord that has a wide and wild swing too it...