Mopar1973Man

Well it sounds like the chip is to blame... If the chip is turned off and it runs fine then flip the chip on and it gets crappy then the chip is to blame pure and simple... The only thing else I can say is check the lift pump pressure it might be too low of fuel pressure and starving the rail out...

Kerosene... (old tymers anti-gel)

The thing I look at is the price another $8,000 and you could buy my truck all over again... I'm not here to brand bash but I do think the price is a bit high on most new vehicle today... But that's MHO...

Actually you might have to disassemble the caliper still to clean out the debris and check the puck for size too. I wish I got got pics of mine now but I had a small goob of debris that pooled and turned semi solid in the bottom of the calipers causing the lower pucks to bind. Still its best to disassemble them once in while and actually look and see...

Here you go gang... http://www.ford.com/crossovers/edge/

I got a set of white spoke steel rims sitting in the shop with my Cooper STT 265/75 R16's on them... As a matter of fact the rims came from my old 1972 Dodge Ram before I traded it in on the 2002 Dodge Cummins... Smart thinkin'

Just pull the error codes...

Yes... P1689 can and will be set if the fuel pump relay is removed while cranking. Like you found out the fuel pump relay actually controls the VP44 not the lift pump.

Maybe like a 235/85 R16 (31" tire)... You also got to consider the weight of the tire (rotational mass) and tread face (Rolling resistance). Then if you got 3.55 gears then going taller is going to reduce the gear ratio even more... I got to admit 285/85 R16 isn't exactly user friendly...

Thank you... Glad to get your post after our nice phone conversation together...

Ok... You got it tomorrow morning I pop on off again to show you...

Well you know the drill ISX go check for error codes there might be a clue in the error codes. I'll see about finding you a service manual. 2000 Dodge Dakota - Factory Service Manual http://pdftown.com/Dodge-Dakota-2000-Service-Manual.html

As for the tracbar is the front end off the ground? It might be pulled to one side causing your problem. Try jacking up the frame and jack standing the frame so the axle is allowed to hang a bit. As for the No Bus issues... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Ummm... The parking brakes on the all wheel disc brake are a drum setup. So inside the hub of the rotor is a mini drum brake setup. Yes my passenger side was frozen yesterday at one stop or another. There was a few hot spots in the face of the drum I had to fix. But the shoes where fine except you can see how the drag heat effected the face of the shoes. I'm thinking its a cable problem more so... But still looking stuff over... I should of grab my camera and shot a few pics... I'll see what I can do about it...

Ummm... Mis-translated P1689 - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2628-P1689-No-Communication-Between-ECM-and-Injection-Pump-Module P0122 - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low

The lowest continual temp I've seen is about 450*F... But typically roads a really slick, icy, and outside temp are a minus number of some sort...

Well I got one side tore apart and found basically a drum full of mud/dirt so I'm going to say the mud was what froze/bound up the parking brakes. But I'm going over it completely cleaning everything and getting the dirt/debris out if it all... On other other side of the coin I don't think I'm going to make 200K on my brake pads... Getting rather thin...

Really pretty place you got Russ Even with the buckets of snow! As for me there is very little snow to be had but freezing cold weather for the last few days...

Last time I looked at the owners manual GCWR of 20,000# and Max Trailer weight ~13,000# is all the truck is rated for out of the factory... But on the other had you might want to talk to CajFlynn he happens to be the heavy weight puller here on the forum pulling so huge boats cross country with a automatic transmission...

Well got up this morning to park the trailer and the E Brake is frozen and will not release... I got it to roll but brakes make a ungawdly sqeaking noise backing up. So I got the truck in the shop and I'm going to rip into the rear axle and see whats going on..

Yea... Grab a cup of your favorite beverage and start reading if you don't find the answer ask I'm sure someone will answer your question if not... I'm sure some here knows of some that might be able to answer it. Welcome...

I share the neighbor ATV to plow his driveway and mine... But he hates the snow and the cold...

In that case I would separate all the cable and work with each one separate and find out which one is bound up. Once you find it you might coil it up in the bottom of a bucket and cover with engine oil and see if you can free it up. (Crazy idea)

Ummm... All of valves are 4 foot under ground below the frost line... Like in my shop I've got a few pipes out ther going to the water heater. I draped a plastic drop cloth over the water heater and threw my over-alls on top of that... Then the pipes are also rapped with heat tape too.. Then like this morning I'll take the truck out and warm up (after unhitching the trailer) and the park it in the shop warm and them plug in the block heater this will keep the shop right at 32-35*F... Why waste the block heater heat... I keep my pipes warm with it..

I've been using 15w-40 in mine winter or summer I just allow time for the oil to warm slightly before taking off. Like the last few day of seeing -11*F doesn't seem to bother it... But now getting down to -20 or -30*F is getting colder yet... Wild & Free is one of our guys that stuck in the freezer of ND...