Mopar1973Man

That's why you draw a vacuum on the system to remove any freon residue and moisture. That why the measured amount of freon its to keep a person from over loading the system...

Any old black light works... But I'll tell you a secret... Once the dye is expose to the atomphere in about 6-12 hours the dye fades away so if you going to hunt A/C leak go out and take a drive with the A/C on and come back and check this will circulate the dye around so if the leak is on the high side it will bled for you and be visable for a short period.

Well seeing your trying to get a repair done I can lift the limitation for you... POOF! Standard Member...

Just get a can of UV dye and use a black light over the piping... If you don.t find any UV dye in the engine bay then its in the HVAC unit under the dash that simple... This when I pulled the pipe apart and there was still a puff of freon left...

That's the thing... The high/low pressures will change as weather changes. Like pressures will get lower as the weather get colder. Then the pressures will rise as the weather warms and the under hood temps rise it will push it higher... Tell you the truth... If you do a bit of reading there is a point where less is better. As long as the evaporator is not flood with liquid freon it will get colder. Basically the lower the low side pressure the colder the A/C will get. But the low pressure switch is the limiting factor. This keeps enough pressure in the system so the evaporator can't freeze. So it continually sweats instead. So if you got enough freon to keep the compressor running constant at say 1,500-2,000 RPM's then I wouldn't sweat it... Just chill out... (Yeah I was being punny)

Hmmm... You still have a restriction some where... Typical fuel pressure drop on a 150 GPH pump should be only 2-3 PSI tops. Just for food for thought my old Carter stock pump new use to drop 4-5 PSI on stock plumbing. Then switch over to the Vulcan Big like Kit and stock Carter and only had 2-3 PSI drop... Then upgrade to a AirDog 150 now only 1-2 PSI drop. But seeing a 8 PSI drop from Idle to WOT there is something wrong...

Johnfak... Remember your exhaust housing is much smaller (9 cm2) than his Common Rail (not sure of the exhaust housing size) so you drive pressure will rise quick on the high end... This is what called the choke point when the DP rises about that 1:1 ratio.

OUCH... That just too low... Keep it in the green...

About right... If your looking for the pressure tables they are located in the Dodge FSM...

Actually it all fits under the hood fine... As for the bolts you can use them to hold your heat shiled in place. Then while mounting the heat shield use backing nuts to hold the plate up a bit more so the top nuts are flush... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/bhaf/bhaf.htm

Russ, I get so damn tongue-tied trying to come up with the right words to say to you... They all seem so inadequate. You're one helluva great guy and it tears me to pieces to see this damn diease putting you out of commission on a daily basis... If the miles were shorter between Idaho and RI you know I'd be there as quick as my Dodge could get me. But I'm stuck! At least ISX stepped up to the plate and offered to do the electronics wiring for ya. I really don't know what else to say...

Thats odd... Like ISX pointed out typically its a 1/8" NPT...

Bad selector switch in the dash?

P0215 - VP44 failure - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2561-P0215-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Control-Circuit P0122 - APPS Sensor - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low P1475 - +5 Volts too high - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2623-P1475-Aux-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-High P0236 - Map sensors too high too long - http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/2570-P0236-Map-Sensor-Too-High-Too-Long Well just looking at the codes P0215 requires a new injection pump. I'm going to assume the P0236 code is caused from the P1475 code that might just be a ECM problem. P0122 might be just a wore out APPS sensor but I would deal with the P1475 first.

Novice Question... Why would you do this?

As much as the older 12V's don't require a fuel pressure gauge but its extremely nice to have at least a test gauge for fuel system testing/daignostics.

No you don't then you'd be breaking stuff all the time...

Pulled the pump? Which one the VP44 or the lift pump? Hows the fuel pressure at the time?

Here you go ISX I found the document about testing the magnets. http://dexteraxle.com/i/u/1080235/f/6-8K_Service_Manual_9-10/Electric_Brakes_9-10.pdf (Pages 20-22)

Well at least its fixed...

Unless there is a bad magnet in the hub that not quite shorted out but got issues... OL - Overload - High Current Draw So in my mine I'd look towards the magnets and might have to open the wiring up under the trailer and test each magnet for amp draw. See if you got one magnet that is drawing a bit heavy...

Hmmm... I wish I known that I would of had you test your fuel pressure and see if there was a blown overflow valve or maybe picking up air in the fuel.

I've got a Prodigy P2 and so far like it... No problems with setting the gain. I kind of like it because when I start out with cold brakes I can up the gain a bit and still have strong trailer brakes. Then as they warm up roll back and be good. But I alway check my setting before I leave.

No polarity... But for your information Black/Light Blue is GROUND And Black/Red is the +5 Volt signal from ECM. Just no OPEN or SHORTS allowed!