Mopar1973Man

Being the brake system went dry for some reason I would check all the wheel cylinders and calipers... I mean actually take them apart and inspect the seals, pucks, cylinders, etc... Then bleed the system out till clean fluid is seen. As for the power steering I would flush that system out as well... Just like AH64ID does here... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/ps-flush/ps-flush.htm As for the rest of the fluids... Get them changed out... Coolant, Engine Oil, Trans Fluid, Axle Lube, etc.

Yeah... Still flowing oil at 5K miles no problem.

Just a side not for you AH64ID... I'm changing my Frantz Filter every 5K miles and full oil change at 10K so basically I loose 1 quart of oil at the filter change and it puts me exactly at the half way mark between full and add so I run the last 5K and change it completely by 10K miles. So there is no make up oil needed...

Wow... (speechless)

Nice find on the switch... That is one thing I don't have up here in Idaho is good stocked Radio Shack... You can fit all there stuff in a single closet... As for re-starting the last mode of operation you should be able to flip the coolant fooler on and it should revert right back to the last mode of operation so if you started with 3 cylinder that will be the mode it resumes again...

Thanks Caj I feel the love... Now I'll go to my corner and cry...

Nothing wrong with it... With my high idle fooler and exhaust brake I kick in the 3 cylinder high idle sometimes just to get heat in the cab. Within about 2-3 minutes the 3 cylinder high is running and EGT are on the way to 800*F. With in about 2 minutes the engine coolant is already 100*F... But that the whole idea of the design is to put the engine under load as quickly as possible to prevent engine damage from fuel wash, tar build up on the valves, etc. Because normal idle will produce very little heat. This is why its suggest to start the engine and start driving it easy right after starting because now you creating load and will gain heat quickly.

Totally normal...

If you keep your EGT's up to about 400*F it will help in keeping the fuel burning... You shouldn't see the exhuast slobber... (Kind of like him) Just turning on the exhaust brake is usually enough to keep the pyrometer up...

I learned that fact quickly... I had a pack rat living on the engine for a short while so I got a box of DeCon and left it on the PDC fuse box. Well he was eating the bait and took 4 days for him to die. Yes 4 days! But you don't want to know where I found him... You know the large hole in the bottom of the tailgate.... He got his head into there and died... Then proceeded to swell up in the hole... I got my buddy Taz to grab ahold and pull him out... Trust me he just about tore in half... Ewwww... (Yuck!)

Wonderful read there... I too carry a firearm with me... I might not have to worry about the people element but I also got to be aware of the 4 legged element too (Wolves, Cougars, etc.) Enuf Said right there!

Ok... So just for the other people that visit the site what would you guys consider a safe upper mileage limit for oil changes? This of course is using a using a good quality lubricant (petroluem based) and a quality filter like fleetguard, baldwin, etc... I know changing every 3K miles is a waste for sure...

The only other thing I could suggest is a product call Seal-All...

What setting where you on here? If your DVM was set to OHMs and you got 0.3 Ohms that's good! As for here... Are you reading the display correctly some like my old Fluke shows OL (Overload) which meant to be Infinite Ohm's double check you dispaly again because if it actually showing Infinite Ohms then your fine that mean there is no shorts to ground and none of the wires are damaged. 0 Ohms = Dead Short Infinite Ohms = Open Wire

Mister Torture here...

Try calling Eric over at Vulcan Performance?

But look this man has managed to drive his 01 Cummins to the 900K milestone and still got room to spare... Now heading down the home stretch...

OMG... Nothing a 9mm wouldn't take care of... Then I would have to run...

Like here in Idaho's cool weather I got to leave me exhaust brake and high idle going to keep the coolant up to 190-195*F with the heater going. Other than that it will drop on me as well... Like ISX pointed out there isn't enough heat generated by the engine to feed the heater and fight off the cold outside temps so the coolant temps fall. Suggestion is to turn the blower down to lowest setting. But leave it idle... 5-10 minute stop won't hurt a thing...

Yeah but tell the truth... You were going 20K miles between oil change orignally... (Busted... )

Ummmm... Help me out guys... I don't have TV at all... How about a link to a video?

Yeah when JL called me he's been all over the state of Texas... Tough find... Like Hen's teeth...

OK... 1693 - Companion Code /threads/2616-P1286-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Supply-Voltage-Too-High?highlight=P1286">1286 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Supply Voltage Too High /threads/2571-P0237-Map-Sensor-Voltage-Too-Low?highlight=P0237">0237 - Map Sensor Voltage Too Low /threads/2570-P0236-Map-Sensor-Too-High-Too-Long">0236 - Map Sensor Too High Too Long /threads/2556-P0122-Accelerator-Position-Sensor-(APPS)-Signal-Voltage-Too-Low">0122 - Accelerator Position Sensor (APPS) Signal Voltage Too Low /threads/2623-P1475-Aux-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-High?highlight=p1475">1475 - Aux 5 Volt Supply Voltage High As for the no bus... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

I found a article about ScanGauge II going to update again... http://www.pureenergysystems.com/store/ScanGauge/USB.htm Status: The main issue causing delay is the difficulty of making the software so it is upgradeable, but so that it can't be hacked for reverse engineering and knock-offs. The unit then needs to be beta-tested for at least a month before being made available generally. The interface is a unit with memory and processing power itself. It has a cable that plugs into the unused connector on the ScanGaugeII and another that plugs into a USB port on a computer. They don't have to both be plugged in at the same time. The interface will use SD Cards for data storage. You can plug it into the ScanGauge for logging and for other upload/download tasks. It can be removed from the vehicle and taken to a computer for data transfers. The ScanGaugeII has all the hardware needed for the interface, but will need an upgrade of its program to use it. The Upgrade is free when you purchase the interface. Once this feature is ready, we'll just have you send in your ScanGauge, and we'll update it. Price has not been finalized yet. It is expected to be under $100. This will also include the software for a windows based computer.

There is a rumor floating around saying that once you hit 999,999 the odometer just quits right there and won't roll over... You got to go to a dealer and have a DRBIII tool to get the actual mileage... I'm hoping it actually does roll over... Last I heard from Caj his like 957K I think... (CRS!)