Mopar1973Man

That is strange...

I just learned how to drive in such a fashion that the truck will cool down most of the pyro heat before I reach my parking spot... Typically I got to wait may 30 seconds... Not a big deal in my book.

Ouch..Well the P1689 code is most likely going to be a Injection pump or VP44 if you can find a shop that has a cheater box to allow you to plug in the cheater box to the VP44 it should allow you to try and start the truck this will tell you if the Vp44 is shot... But by the looks of it you might be getting hit twice by the ECM and VP44... (Praying for ya)

Here is the common information on Acetone http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetone http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Acetone_as_a_Fuel_Additive http://www.snopes.com/autos/techno/acetone.asp http://www.pureenergysystems.com/news/2005/03/17/6900069_Acetone/

As for looking for answer like most homebrew ideas you not going to get all the answer your looking for... The best thing I can say is to research it as much as you can then do you own kind of testing if your willing... Kind of like the 2 cycle oil idea... That the only thing I could suggest...

As far as I know its all 16" inch rims from 1st gen to 3rd gen then it jumped to 17" rim to fit the oversized disc brakes...

Like during my testing I've been doing for the IAT fooler... I've been operating the truck without a winter front into temp around 0*F without a problem. The warm time might be extended but the but I've always seen 193-197*F worth of coolant when fully warmed up even without a winter front. So if you cannot reach 190*F worth of coolant temp you've got a failed thermostat pure and simple...

Well the problem is there is 46 different ECM's out for our 2nd 24V trucks... The other problem is any ECM you pick up you would need to take the truck and have the dealer flash the VIN number into it. While your there, you would need to flash the proper software into it as well.

Could you get a picture of the assembly? I haven't opened my axles yet so I'm not sure...

Lift pump is directly controlled by the ECM... You might have to bump the starter to see if the lift pump starts up. But as for relays or fuses, there is nothing in between the lift pump or ECM to stop it. So either the lift pump is bad or the ECm is bad if it doesn't start...

Come north my good friend... Come north... Thats why I limp my way down to Boise with as little fuel as possible and load up there, always much cheaper in Boise, ID or Lewiston, ID compared to all the tiny towns in between...

Well so far all the places on the web say don't do it... (Narrow minded sites) They're so worried about the DPF filters and such... One guy got smart and disconnected the EGR solenoid lead and gained about 1 MPG and much cooler EGT temps...

You guys on the east side of the states are lucky... Idaho is one of the high price states with a low price of $3.659 right now with some of the tourist trap towns as high as $3.809...

IOD fuse in the cab... The one with the funny clip over it... Off my ABS Brake page but check the black clip one if I'm not mistaken...

Let me help out a bit... You need a bump to standard member to download... Click! Your there now!

Ok info on the CCD network... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/ccd/ccd.htm

Now you know what I meant about tigger... Thanx THRacing I'm sure the guys will enjoy that...

Ouch... Reverse polarity will wipe out every diode in any type of electronic device... My first thoughts are of the 6 diodes in the alternator. Then all the electronics (ABS, central timer, instrument cluster, ECM ,PCM, etc)

There you go...

AFe, K&N and S&B and all the other high price filters... Don't do a thing... As long as the intake of the turbo is free flowing and doesn't pull any vacuum (water column) then the filter setup is fine... Now as for big HP truck like 600 and up I would say yeah you need to open it out and use everything you could...

Do either one of you use your truck offroad? I've seen them before but the only thing that stops me from getting one is the thought of offroad debris snagging it and ripping off the bottom of the tank...

From the looks of it ISX it looks like you are dialed in as is... With your homemade wastegate controller, AFC and plate gone, block off plate to cover the hole. Funny part you ahead of the CF crowd and producing the most...

I don't know how he did it but I can't reach the front bolt behind the VP44... The same applies to the 1st Gen with the VE pump you can reach the front bolt behind the pump...