Mopar1973Man

That's the ECM plug... Go over to the Download area grab a copy of the Dodge FSM for 2001 and turn to page 1053 (8W - 80 - 40) Shows all the pin outs for the ECM...

Welcome to the site... Stick around there is a lot of helpful people here that can teach you more and if they can't I'm sure someone knows of another person that can help...

I look at the profile of the tire and contact patch and base my pressure from that. Also using a tread depth gauge to double check to make sure I'm not over wearing the outside or middle of the tread and adjust accordingly.

Hmmm... 3 possible answers... [*]Blown fuse [*]Blower motor resistor is burnt up [*]Blower motor failed I've never heard of a speed switch failing yet...

Did the housing crack or has corrosion holes in it?

Well the 12V is a simple engine to work on but the 24V still has a few bonuses over... IMHO

Those are the pin numbers of the ECM... But I was showing the larger wiring map to show the ground from the other sensors that connect at S165... But the other smaller wiring diagram will do for you...

Yeap Wild & Free is right about the history of the Father / Son relationship... The other thing to look at is pure size of the equipment which is the other key feature... Both have the same performance as far as fuel pumps but the AD is a MUCH smaller package compared to the FASS...

Here is more on the tire conversation... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tire_code

Unless your missing body plug in the floor or walls...

Very valid point... I'll admit that I eat my my truck seen every where I go is long distance. But Normally I do vacuum and wash the truck once a week if the weather allows for it. In the time I've been working on vehicle in Idaho (21 years) I've seen a few rigs (no names) that are rather gross on the interior and the parents allow the kids to eat and make a huge mess. Strangely enough that vehicle last I knew was starting to have mice problems...

I agree with Dorkweed... Just getting back to the basics there is a over fueling and lack of air issue occuring.

I've got a old school Vulcan big line kit in between the stock fuel filter and the VP44. In that line is a push loc tee with a 1/8" NPT test port. Then the rest comes out... Elbow to the needle valve the the brass tee with the fuel pressure gauge line and low pressure switch. Needle valve is required for both electric or mechanical gauge without a isolator. The isolator becomes a damping device in its self trying to translate diesel fuel pressure into anti-freeze pressure. Typical no on complains about buzzing noises while using a isolator... It will be very evident when the needle valve is too open the the gauge will buzz in the cab. The Polyon line is really cheap and you can buy 10 feet of that for less than 6 bucks at a NAPA. Just remember to get new farrules... As for the needle valve ...

Basically all you need to do is test each wire from APPS plug to the ECM plug for zero ohm from one point to the other (should show 0 ohms). Then test again testing for ohms between each wire and ground (should show infinite ohms). If your see flow at this point start looking for harness that has been rubbing the block or sharp edge.

Yeah don't we wish we could break out the old school timing light hook it up to #1 injector line and see timing... (Seriously) It would be nice to know exactly that information...

As afar as experience of this yes I have on a old 2 1/2 ton military truck. Same problem in 5th gear. Let off the throttle and the stick would pop out of gear so the passenger would lean on the stick and hold it into gear... As for the fix there is something broke/wore out internally...

Just for fun this morning I darted out to the shop and found a 50K Ohm pot and hooked it up...It ranges from 13*F to 292*F (0 Ohm also P0112 throw with CEL) Problem its not user friendly at all... Below 50*F the adjust is easy to hit. But not above 50*F the slighest movement jumps like 50*F... But it allowed me with some steady hands to adjust to 101*F for now. So the rheostat idea works but its not user friendly by no mean while driving.

Cold IAT Temps? Like in really cold weather (< 0*F) I've always had a steam trail...

You could but I'm trying to find a solid form of the number... Being I've got buckets of resistors I can just swap them out... Since everything is under the hood any how...

I've got a set of ultrasonic boxes with 3 levels or audio... Total Ultrasonic you can't here, Low which includes lower freq humans can hear, and LOUD which amps up the low and ultrasonic for long distance coverage. So far there has been nothing in the 2 vehicles. mice can't stand the loud random noises and can't get any sleep so they move on... Don't get me wrong I'll find a turd now and then on the floor or somewhere but they are NOT building nest or living in the vehicles. Before I used to find big piles of shred seat foam, etc. Then big piles of seed, etc... Don't happen now... As for the box I'm using it no longer produced...

For long term stoarge for like RV's I'm hearing that mothballs will keep them out too... Just make sure you put the mothballs in a dish or poreous container. The odor is suppose to be enough to keep mice out... Matter of fact I need to pick up box of them for the other rigs sitting around the yard...

DobieNut, run over and grab the wiring diagram and do a bit of testing... Since the all the newer Dodge's are negative switched all it takes is a pinched wire and the lights will stay on. It is possible for the daytime module to create some hell... /downloads.php?do=file&id=128">http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=128

Here is what the valve assembly looks like... Nice how a 2002 Dodge doesn't have this goofy module any longer...