Mopar1973Man

Sure... Ask away! I gather its a gasser? If so you need to check your basics. 1. Is there fuel? 2. Is there spark? 3. Is there compression?

It seem like this is a big problem for the early version fuel filter of them leaking right there. Good to hear you found a solution to fix it... Most likely cheaper than what I'm going to post next... Here is a fix a guy on the phone today told me about which is still a bit pricey but its a complete kit with Fleetguard spin on filter, heater, etc... http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK109852-BLKH

Ummm... first off... Get the rest of the codes... P1693 code means more codes are present... P0500 code explained here (bottom of the page) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/abs/abs.htm Also whats your fuel pressure like?

when you are in deep $h!t, look straight ahead, keep your mouth shut & say nothing.

132 Liters = 35 Gallons (Roughly speaking) $5.85 x 35 Gallons = $204.75 to fill up... Man I feel for you THRacing...

At any rate it would be best to just move over to the big line kit and relocate the lift pump down on the frame...

Once again thank W&F for the next set... MoparMom and I watch the last set of video last night... Yeah in Idaho prices are going up already... We are already seeing increases with groceries at the local stores and watching the fuel prices rise as well...

Switch servers?

Well I know from personal experince cold air is not your friend 24V Cummins burns much better with warmer air say 100-140*F IAT temp so at 5*F I bet the IAT is about 45*F. At those conditions and that amount of weight yes 7.5 MPG. Now if you were to jump into the IAT mod I think you can gain back some MPG's... Brake drag does come on rather slowly and eat away at you MPG numbers quickly... I would just brake down all 4 wheels and disassemble and clean all brake parts really good and be sure that all part fit properly without binding up. Just my trip down to Boise, ID with my Jayco trailer (no IAT mod) I got got barely 9.9 MPG. With outside temps around 10*F to 20*F for the day. Kept my speed to 55-60 MPH and was seeing the same kind of pyrometer temp except when I climbed over Midvale grade 6% grade at 60 MPH I was looking at 1,100*F and 32 PSI of boost. After talking to CajFlynn he suggested I back out and limit to 20 PSI boost at anytime this reduces the chance of driveline failure and slight gain back to MPG's.

That strange... In 5-10 miles with my winter front I'm at 190*F. Using a cheap NAPA thermostat. Then my heater blows 140-160*F air in the cab. I actually seen the inside cab temp above 100*F before when I was sick. But it felt so good. But my hunch is that the heater core is plugged up... That's because of the coolant going south. It becomes acidic or basic over time and starts eating the metals of the cooling system which produces those big white blooms in the radiator. Trust me it's not the water.... I'm using creek water now for over 9 years of my truck and absolutely ZERO issues... This is where my water comes from at this little dam. And my cooling system is good at 100K miles... Then at 170K miles Not bad... So this proves it all about keeping fresh coolant in the engine more so than worrying about the water...

I hope you not letting it idle to warm up? (Not good for it) I suggest you fire up the truck and just get driving easy till it warms up. It should be 190*F in about 5-10 miles typically. So my suggestion to you is flush out the system if it hasn't in the last 30K miles or if its unknown. Color of the coolant is meaningless. You going to have to flush out the heater core separately to see if you can get it to flow more. Double check your blend door motor to see if its moving correctly.

Thank you W&F for the videos... I know I normal don't allow political discussions. But I'm going to let this one go because it effect everyone in the USA and it going to effect your lifestyle directly. So let the discussion go here but... "Remember" lets keep our cool and not let this get into a bashing thread if so I'll shut it down or one of the moderators will... You've been warned! Now my response to this I've already watched the first 2 with MoparMom this morning and need to watch the rest of them but from what I see the USA is going to see some hardships coming...

Like on my Mom's 96 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 5.9L the offset is 233%... It shows at 0% offset of 55 MPG... Which I know isn't true... So as for why the offset differences? I don't know really... Difference in electronics? Orignal in stock form I was only 9.6% offset... Now with all the mods I'm at 24%...

Works with... The stock OE filter is a full flow filter and a Motorguard / Frantz is a bypass filter that only filters a small percentage of the oil flow.

Going to mark my answers in RED. Because during the calibrate fillup process you would fill the truck at the fuel station and then drive till about 1/4 tank and return back to the same fuel station and pump. Then fill again. During this fill the pump would show the total amount of fuel pump into your fuel tank and the ScanGauge II would show the amount fuel consumed. So knowing that both numbers are off the offset is adjusted to match the pump. So say SGII displays 22.0 Gallons and I pumped 27.2 Gallons so I would end up increasing the offset till the SGII match the fuel pump which would display 24%. So the next time you pull up to the pump the gallons should be right there close when it kick the pump handle. NOTE: You will never get it exactly perfect. Fuel station pumps have a margin of error as well. So that is the short fall of the stock overhead it assumes that it will remain a stock truck forever and you never change tires, rims, engine fueling system, etc...

Welcome to the group! I've seen some people mange to put 6BT Cummins in Ramcharger before...

That's where the stock overhead computer falls short quick... Like Ultra Gauge and Scan Gauge both have a offset feature to calibrate to offset changes in the fuel system like larger injectors, timings, etc... Then This figure is used in conjuction with the GPH signal from the ECM to correct flows. Then UG & SG both have a calibration for speed so then you can dial in for over sized tires and such... So now both numbers are trued back up giving better accuracy to the MPG display compared to the stock overhead computer... ((MPH * Offset %) + MPH) / ((GPH * Offset %) + GPH) = Corrected MPG Now this is something stock overhead can't do... So like mine has a GPH offset of 24% and has a MPH offset of 1%... Which gives true number from the SG which my hand math tends be lower because of the 1% difference in mileage. Like my Mom's 96 (Running Mopar Performance PCM) has a 233% GPH offset and 0% MPH offset. So SG / UG is a good tool if calibrated properly...

Either hit "Manage Attachments" button below the text box or and put your pics in...

This is cause by a lift pump with open or short windings... Basically the pump is either drawing too much amps or not enough because of internal problems so the answer to your error code is to replace the lift pump.

Thanks W&F... I sure do wish I had more of his stuff though...

All the electronics will run off of 8 volts as a minimum. As for the release of the key and it starts to run it might be the actual key switch is bad...

Well all data is calculated simply... MPH / GPH = MPG So if your traveling 55 MPH and the engine is consuming 3.0 GPH so... 55 MPH / 3.00 GPH = 18.3 MPG Then what the overhead does is buffer the information and keep averaging the data out. But if you want to reverse calculate you can too... GPH x MPG = MPH MPH / MPG = GPH

Well... Ummm... what else??? Being a good guy helping fellow forum owners...

Dang... The forum owners united in one spot wow! Elkslayer (www.idahoturbodiesels.com) LiveOak (www.tractorfarmandfamily.com) MnTom (www.dieseltrucksite.com) Duluth Diesel (www.midwestdieselconnection) if he shows up.

Not the caster oil is the salt and the alcohol...