Mopar1973Man

Hmmm.... Make sure to vacuum down the system good. (Remove moisture) Make sure to add oil if compressor is being replaced or any parts of the system being replaced. (Make up lost lube oil) Don't add the freon as a liquid compressor can't pump liquid. (Can up side down) Watch both lo and hi side pressures. Don't over add freon because the pressure is low. (If you flood the evaporator then the freon can't evaporate and cause cooling) Don't buy freon with oil charge (This will flood the system with too much oil and cause problems with cooling too!) NO! -><- NO! Use PAG oil charge Then R134a Freon

Just not many Idahoian's here on my forum... I see Dodge Cummins all over the place out here in Central Idaho... But no one ever comes to talk... :banghead:

Site dropped the pic...

My bad... 24V on the brain...:banghead: P7100 is a different animal...

Update... I beat my last few averages I'm now at 23.4... (91.6 Miles / 3.90 Gallons = 23.48 MPG) More on this later... Used 3.90 Gallons 91.6 Miles traveled Max Speed 58 MPH Average Speed 41 MPH As for fuel it was just below the quarter mark when I left the house... Take note of the last fuel entry... 2-14-11 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2583&d=1298817223 ____________________________________________ Now I add a trip to Riggins, ID... I topped out at 25.3 MPG on the way to Riggins, ID but my way home bucking wind I still held 23.5 MPG... 23.5 MPG 120 Miles 5.08 Gallons Fuel logs...

Well you can test it by fuel volume or by pressure... I prefer pressure because then you measure both idling and WOT operation and see where the pressures are. If the pressure falls below 10 PSI at anytime the pump failed.

No joke... 180 miles (south Boise, ID) one way or 125 miles (north to Lewsiton, ID) one way...

Quick and dirty... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/hvac/recharge/recharge.htm

You might back track all the ignition switch wiring for a loose or problem connector.

Don't feel bad Russ... My last trip down to Ontario, OR for new tires I barely pulled 9.9 MPG... But I took the time and found a public scale and check the weight of both the truck (7,800#) and the Travel Trailer (7,220#) with a Gross Combined 15,020# and the TT was even loaded... No personal effects, no water, no food, no bedding, no toyz... As for the WD (Weight distribution) bars really do help out in controlling your load. As for my brakes and wheel bearing I did mine and went through and re-packed and re-adjusted according to CajFlynn's specs. It seemed to roll better on the return trip with fresh rubber but that's all up hill though :banghead: Caj's is one hell of trailer dragger! So other than that I'm still waiting for this darn white stuff to go away!

Actually if your going for fuel saving I wouls say covert the hubs over to manual hubs and quit rotating the ring and pinion in the heavy gear oil. Pulling the driveshaft isn't going to save much... Because the axle are still twisting the gears around in the front pumpkin in that thick gear oil...

Looking towards home last summer...

There was a guy long ago on CF.com that was managing to pick the ECM apart using RomRaider and was figuring out how to re-write the ECM software to his own liking. Also he tore into the VP44... But the great hurricane Katrina came and his site disappeared... Personally I would love to be able to re-write a bunch of stuff... Like cruise control min speed is set for 35 MPH drop that to 5 MPH. See a clear copy of of the timing tables and fueling maps. Be able to disable the grid heaters completely.Do away with Torque Management.(Rumor) There is already software present for low fuel pressure switch to be used on the ECM (Engine shut down on low fuel pressure)

Yea... Mine were simular...

Had a snowmobile... This was my last ride... After this I came home and parked and then gave it away... I enjoyed snowmobiling alot. But when you and a girlfriend head out and to trail ride and get stuck. Then have 20+ snowmobiles go by you and laugh and point. Because my sled wasn't brand new anymore (10 years old). It took me 2 hours to dig out. No big deal about digging out. But what bothered me is the fact that 20+ people could ride past you and leave you for dead and not even help. Also that pic the snow is roughly 8 feet deep. After relizing it could of been much worse I simply gave up the sled... (No longer own a sled) 1995 Artic Cat Pather Deluxe (440 Fan cooled)

Yeah I replaced a cam cover gasket on Taz's 1992 Dodge it was the same way brittle and crumble in your hands. I might end up doing mine this spring too...

Just because of being common to have starting problems I did some digging in the books and gathered up a quick diagnostic list... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/diagnostics/diagnostics.htm

I always loved how a 12V cummins would start and run without anything... Just need a bit of power to twist the starter and tank of fuel to keep it fed...

Why not have software like EFI Live for Ford and Chevy's where they are capable of writing there own code into the ECM's. Dodge is the only one without any kind of software like that currently. Even Subaru has RomRaider that allows a re-write of the ECM. Smarty and SuperChips are weak version of this.

Because 110-120*F will put you roughly at 140-150*F IAT. But since the engine was design to be run in weather above that I'm sure its either going to defuel or have some really wild settings for timing... Since no one is capable of seeing the timing table of the ECM lets say its safe to play inside the normal weather span but get above it well your pushing your luck...

Ok... Here you go guys and gals... It posted in the Static Pages now... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/compression/compression-test.htm

Over all my MPG logs I've kpet since 20K miles to current. My lowest MPG hauling loaded was 14.10 MPG Best was 25.3 MPG (One Hit wonder) But still can hold a floating around 19-21 MPG hand calc'd. But with a heavy foot see a average of 16-18 MPG as well...

Well there is a lot of variables... Like if I kick it up to 65 MPH from 55 MPH I can kill off all my gains to 18-19 MPG. So driving style has something to do with it. Also in my area of Idaho there is no traffic light just stop signs. So its not like I sit in stop and go traffic. Like some of the runs and things I didn't report because knowing I was in a hurry and drove like a bat out of hell and sucked the numbers down. Or happen to be towing at the time (firewood to New Meadows, ID) Still the #1 factor of all this is speed and driving style. Poor driving style can ruin a good MPG...

That's why I got trip to trip basis... Clearing the SGII and record for a single trip... Also my problem is my odometer is off by 0.5 of a MPH slow so my hand numbers typically come out a 0.2 ot 0.3 lower than SGII because of this small error. Then if I happen to haul a load of firewood for friend in New Meadows, ID again that would skew the entire tank (hand clac). Or if I happen to drive up in the mountain to a buddy's place 11 miles back. (Roughly 4-6 MPG the whole way up the 11 miles). So in order to keep clean data I've been using the same test route back and forth to McCall shopping. Because I drive the same way there and back everytime. It involves traveling from 2,800 ft elevation to 5,200 feet in McCall, ID speed zones ranging from 25 MPH in the cities, 45 MPH on the grades, 55 MPH on the highways (Posted 65 MPH).

Pana-Pacific - That particual gauge is no long made... They changed the design...